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Jefford on Monday

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Coonawarra soils

It was hidden away on page 16 of the 32-page proposal. Not in italics; not in red ink either. Perhaps it should have been. "One of the most disturbing trends," wrote the author, Tony Battaglene of the Winemakers' Federation of Australia, "has been the dramatic decline in the export sales of higher value wines."

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Jefford on Monday: Hill Sages

Lagier Meredith Andrew Jefford

The more vineyards you visit, the more quickly you become inured to their attractions. Yes, that summer lunch under the old cedar was lovely, but the cold of winter is a different matter.

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DWWA 2013

What’s a decade? One-fifth of a working lifetime, in most cases: a significant span. I’m now home after the tenth year of sitting in judgment as a panel chair for the Decanter World Wine Awards – for Regional France on this occasion. What have I learned?

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Dr Giorgi Dakishvili

It was gold in colour, though a little deeper than usual: the colour of my grandmother’s wedding ring. The aromas rolled out like a slow wave at the end of a great ocean: sinuous, seamless, grand. There was wax, incense, menthol, crushed walnut, cheese nestled in straw; there were summer fruits left out on an old stone wall until they had very nearly dried rigid, with just a little acid-spangled fructose left in them. The wine was banquet-like, but not a waterfall of flavour, as Montrachet is. This was, more literally, a knife-and-fork enterprise; the tannins fell softly, like wet snow. It was chewy but gentle, weighty yet lifted, gristly, quietly garrulous.

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Jefford on Monday

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Award-winning writer Andrew Jefford's Monday column on Decanter.com

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