Tameran
David Silva and winemaker Jonatan García Lima in the winery
(Image credit: David Silva and winemaker Jonatan García Lima in the winery)

David Silva – ‘El Mago’ – was an extraordinarily talented footballer: a World Cup and twice European Championship winner with Spain, four times Premier League title winner with Manchester City and one of the first names on the team sheet in the late 2010s when City were, arguably, the best football team in the world.

And now, in glory-coated retirement from the beautiful game, a winemaker? Don’t bet against it.

In 2019, Silva bought the vineyard property on Gran Canaria – the Canary island on which he was born and raised – that is now Bodega Tamerán. Guided by his friend Jonatan García Lima, owner of Suertes del Marqués – the first winery to rise to fine wine prominence in Tenerife – Silva launched Tamerán from the 2020 vintage, with García installed as winemaker.

On the terraces

Surrounded by towering mountains and plunging ravines in a semi-arid volcanic landscape dotted with giant cacti and balsam spurges, Tamerán is located in a rugged valley at 700m in central Gran Canaria.

Indigenous white varieties Baboso Blanco, Listán Blanco, Malvasía Volcánica, Marmajuelo, Verdello and Vijariego Blanco are planted on their own rootstocks in separate terraced parcels for the flagship varietal whites; Listán Negro is sourced from trusted growers at more than 1,200m further north for two recently introduced reds.

García is very much Tamerán’s guiding force for now, but Silva is taking more than a passing interest in the technical side of things. His love of wine developed when he was playing football in England and struck up a friendship with Joan Valencia, owner of Cuvée 3000, Spain’s leading natural and artisan wine distributor.

‘He started to send me different wines and I started to discover different areas – France, Italy, the Canary Islands…’ Silva explains. One of the wines that impressed him the most was the Suertes del Marqués, El Ciruelo Listán Negro 2016 (since renamed Las Suertes).

He contacted García to congratulate him on the wine and they hit it off. Silva’s knowledge developed quickly.

As well as familiarising himself with the best wines and winemakers of the Canary Islands, he loves the whites of Rías Baixas and has learned a lot from winemaker friends in Galicia, including Rodrigo Méndez. He has a particular taste for Burgundy and Barolo – tastes he shares with García.


‘One day I would like to make the wine. Every year I do more in the cellar’

David Silva


A different league

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(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Although Tamerán’s focus is on scintillating local-variety whites, Silva is also excited by the potential of Gran Canaria reds. Tamerán’s two impressively elegant single-vineyard reds use Listán Negro from Vega de San Mateo, a high-elevation vineyard area close to Pico de las Nieves, the stratovolcano that forms the island’s highest peak.

Having now retired from football (forced to in 2023 by an anterior cruciate ligament injury), Silva is fully focused on Tamerán and very much hands-on.

‘Since I retired I’m there all the time,’ he says. ‘One day I would like to make the wine. It’s not easy, but I will try. Every year I am doing more things in the cellar.’

Now having got into their stride with Tamerán, both he and García are particularly excited about recent vintages. They think that cooler years in 2024 and 2025, along with better work in the vineyard and greater precision in the cellar, have produced the best wines yet.

The 2025 vintage was also the first with Burgundy barrels (they started the project with new Stockinger foudres and 500L barrels). It was Silva who suggested they try smaller-format Burgundy oak; the 2025s will be the first for which they’re trialling 300L François Frères.

‘I like whites with a little bit of oak, because in white, for me, with the acidity, it’s nice. But in reds, I don’t like the oak too much. I prefer reds with more fruit, more freshness,’ he says.

‘Now sometimes people do more [to emphasise] the acidity, but then you don’t have the complexity and the volume in the mouth. I prefer that kind of balance [of acidity and volume]. It’s not easy to do it here, but we are trying.’


Bodegas Tamerán: The essential six wines


Tamerán, Vijariego Blanco, Gran Canaria, The Islands, Spain, 2024

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Beautifully buttered, Burgundian nose: toasted almond, orange rind, ripe peach, jackfruit, petrichor and camomile. A sea-shell hint, too. Rich but intensely savoury with super acid...

2024

The IslandsSpain

TameránGran Canaria

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Tamerán, Listán Blanco, Gran Canaria, The Islands, Spain, 2024

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The first vintage for this young vineyard (it was planted between 2021 and 2022). Rich notes of acacia honey and camomile. Fully integrated oak spice...

2024

The IslandsSpain

TameránGran Canaria

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Tamerán, Mavalsía Volcanica, Gran Canaria, The Islands, Spain, 2024

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White peach and a hint of lychee on the nose. Really ripe fruit, a hint of tangerine rind. Creamy peach with a lick of barrel...

2024

The IslandsSpain

TameránGran Canaria

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Tamerán, Marmajuelo, Gran Canaria, The Islands, Spain, 2024

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Rich with aromas and flavours of buttery apples and creamy oak spice. Opulent. Buttered toast, a caramel note like single malt barrel spice. Like a...

2024

The IslandsSpain

TameránGran Canaria

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Tamerán, Baboso Blanco, Gran Canaria, The Islands, Spain, 2024

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A deeper register of fruit here and more fat, some buttered pineapple. Hints of toast and salt. Fleshy and round with a clean, supple mineral...

2024

The IslandsSpain

TameránGran Canaria

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Tamerán, Listán Negro Camaretas, Gran Canaria, The Islands, Spain, 2023

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More of a peppery, smoky classically Listán Negro nose. A minerally, irony tang, but similar notes of dried flowers and berry fruits. A more complete...

2023

The IslandsSpain

TameránGran Canaria

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Tamerán, Listán Negro Lomo de Los Ingleses, Gran Canaria, The Islands, Spain, 2023

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Very Burgundian Pinot-esque. Dried peony, rose, dried cranberry, red cherry, red apple. A hint of (Volnay?) rust. Extremely elegant, silky, supple palate, with dried flowers,...

2023

The IslandsSpain

TameránGran Canaria

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Darren Smith is a wine writer and nomadic winemaker. He launched his wine label, The Finest Wines Available to Humanity, in 2020. For more information visit www.tfwath.com