Amanda Barnes: My top 10 South American wines of 2023

Looking back over my tasting highlights of 2023, what really stands out is the growing mastery of South America’s winemakers with the goldilocks varieties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Limarí and Gualtallary are – in my opinion at least – bonafide ‘grands crus’ for these varieties. However Aconcagua Costa and Malleco are increasingly prevalent too. Tabalí, Reta, Catena Zapata, Errázuriz and Vinos Baettig are notable disciples.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Amanda Barnes’ top 10 South American wines of 2023

That being said, it was actually the rather more unusual locations that really caught my eye this year.

One of the best Chardonnays I tasted in 2023 came unexpectedly from a boutique producer in Brazil’s emerging Serra do Sudeste region. To the other extreme, deep in Argentinian Patagonia, the world’s southernmost commercial winery, Otronia, has been producing excellent Chardonnay since its first vintage, but it is the new 2021 vintage of Pinot Noir that I found to be a great surprise.

From Chile, I have thoroughly enjoyed drinking Rafael Tirado’s Pinot Noir, which offers excellent value for money and still begs the question as to why he is the lone producer in Maule’s Andes mountains. Another, which is not available outside of Chile yet, is JP Martin’s brilliant Pinot Noir from Huasco… made in the Atacama Desert no less!

Malbec shines

The other variety that has really shone this year is, perhaps less surprisingly, Malbec. I particularly enjoyed the distinctive expressions coming from old vines in Maule, with the wines of Reta and Miguel Torres’ Los Inquietos, as well as the tippy top altitude expressions of Humahuaca in northern Argentina with Cielo Arriba. We have also seen some real leaps in quality in the Uco Valley, which continues to drive forward Argentina’s top wines.

The long-awaited debut release from Altos Las Hormigas’ Jardin Altamira vineyard is one of the best wines I have tasted this year. It can sit proudly alongside the other noble Malbecs coming from Zuccardi, El Enemigo, Catena Zapata and PerSe. These wines reflect Argentina embracing a more Burgundian ethos, while also bravely showing their own distinct personality.

Old vine stars

Other varieties that are rightfully gaining more recognition are the humble, old-vine wines made from Cinsault, País and the Criolla varieties. The beautiful old vines and authentic wines from Chile’s Itata, Bio Bio and Maule Valleys continue to excite me, with producers such as Leo Erazo, Bouchon and Garage Wine Co leading the charge.

Meanwhile the Criolla revolution happening in eastern and northern Mendoza is giving new value to the under-appreciated old vines in the region. Radical bottles from La Cayetana, Lucas Niven, Mariana Onofri and Matias Morcos have kept my glass more than half full this year.

Coastal bottles

There is also a growing confidence and skill among winemakers for making refreshing but also profound maritime wines. Albariño continues to firmly put Uruguay on the vinous map and producers including Familia Deicas, Bouza, Garzón, Cerro del Toro and the edgy new project of Michelini i Mufatto are some of my favourites to look out for.

Meanwhile in Chile, the underdog variety of Syrah is really finding its feet in the coastal regions of San Antonio, Casablanca and Limari. The excellent top wine from Matetic proves how good these wines become with time, if you are patient enough to wait…

Amanda Barnes’ top 10 South American wines of 2023

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