Bordeaux 2021 in bottle: Overview and top-scoring wines
Despite fears at the time of a potential disaster of a year, the 2021 Bordeaux vintage has ultimately yielded a number of gorgeous wines that will delight Bordeaux drinkers who appreciate freshness and energy, not to mention the notably moderate alcohol levels.
Bordeaux 2021: 3.5/5
‘2021 is a vintage that has subtle charm, energy, and, ultimately, drinking pleasure but it is not a vintage full of exoticism or exuberance’
Bordeaux 2021: wines of the vintage
Left Bank: Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac Premier Cru Classé
Pessac-Léognan: Château Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classé
Right Bank: Château Figeac, St-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘B’
Scroll down to see tasing notes and scores for selection of 40 top-scoring Bordeaux 2021 wines
The year that had everything: black frost, hail, abundant rainfall, mildew, uneven fruit set, a cool summer, botrytis, the need for increased labour, protracted harvests and subsequent difficult decisions about blends, oak treatment and length of ageing (some opted for longer, some shorter, with varying percentages of new oak).
Yes, 2021 was far from easy, and while growers were happy if they ultimately harvested healthy grapes, or any at all, the agonising production decisions have only recently ended.
The 2021 vintage can loosely be summarised as a happy surprise for those who have made enjoyable wines. During the en primeur tastings in spring 2022, the wines could be characterised as fresh and lively with a return to a more classic Bordeaux construction following several sunny, heat-filled years.
The challenging weather conditions meant many wines had less plush fruit and more acidity on show, slightly leaner body with more evident estate and terroir characteristics.
It certainly wasn’t, and isn’t, a vintage full of exoticism, exuberance, plushness or substance, but one that has subtle charm, energy, finesse, balance and ultimate drinking pleasure.
2021 at a glance
This is not a vintage to buy blind, with patchy quality and a number of disappointing wines. It was a year beset with climatic and logistical challenges that on paper might have suggested catastrophe, but in the end, time in bottle has favoured producers with sufficient resources or who didn’t attempt to override the intrinsic character of the vintage.
Highs and Lows
After retasting more than 600 wines so far, my verdict remains roughly the same. There are some stunning wines in 2021, many entirely refuting the notion of a weak or overly light vintage.
The best show ample strength if not overt weight, with broad and solid structures, well-integrated tannins, vibrancy and freshness.
They strike the balance of juiciness, elegance and total drinkability with restrained alcohols and seem to adequately combine old-school cool classicism (think pre-2000s) with modern-day precision and detail.
However, while Bordeaux is arguably at its apex of winemaking – able, as one winemaker put it, to ‘make a great wine in any vintage these days’ – there are no 100-point wines, or even 99s or 98s.
Though there are some that get close to the latter – I hesitated slightly when assessing them against their estates’ previous and subsequent vintage renditions.
Indeed, beyond the top wines, the 2021 vintage is inconsistent and uneven, and plaudits are reserved for only a small portion of the region’s wines – this is not a vintage to buy blind, or to look to second wines as a general rule.
It’s neither a Left or Right Bank vintage, with successes and failures on both sides – although the longest-lived may prove to be among those from the Left.
Recent tastings of these wines – some as early as November 2023, others as late as February 2024 – were confounding; some had improved on their en primeur scores – there are 15 flagged with ‘Upscore’ at the start of their tasting note – while others seemed entirely different wines.
Time in barrel has rewarded and nourished some wines, enhancing roundness, sweetness and body; but it has punished others by stripping them bare, revealing hollow mid-palates and leaving dry finishes – length and toast levels needed to be controlled carefully in 2021.
There is of course the key factor of the quality of fruit at harvest, but it seems early youth was more flattering to some wines than the ageing process has been, with an abundance of lean and austere acidities, noticeable mildew in the worst, and sometimes green unripe notes mingled with massy and dry tannins where harvest dates weren’t judged right and/or extraction was overdone.
COMING SOON: Notes and scores for more than 400 Bordeaux 2021s re-tasted in-bottle
Welcome Contrast
The impact of the vintage conditions obviously plays a part, but I far preferred wines – and commented as much – that weren’t ‘trying too hard’, or those that allowed the nature of the vintage to be expressed, rather than trying to overcompensate by pushing the maturity or body-building the palate.
The fact is, 2021 simply couldn’t be a 2020 or 2022, and those who understood that, or were blessed with more favourable conditions, better resources or a combination of any number of factors, have been successful.
It’s hard to generalise, as with any vintage, but the 2021s absolutely have their place at the table – perfect for restaurant wine lists, for example – and will be delicious to drink and finish the bottle.
The 2021 vintage wines are crunchy, vibrant and totally moreish, and will provide a welcome contrast to the bigger, bolder, more confident hotter vintages that surround it.
There’s no doubt in my mind that many are worth buying; however, fortunately my job isn’t to tell you when to buy, as that seems the biggest question on people’s lips.
The current state of the market is precarious and many wines are difficult to sell, not least these 2021s, which had relatively bullish prices en primeur that theoretically will now increase with the wines in bottle.
The feeling outside Bordeaux seems largely to be ambivalent, and it may be that consumers have to wait 10 years or so before these wines start to look like ‘good value’ against neighbouring vintages 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2022, which are likely to see dramatic price rises.
They shouldn’t, however, be damned by price: value is relative, but quality is certainly there to be found in the best.
Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle: Magazine selection
Wines are listed in alphabetical order by score
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Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Richly scented and vibrant nose of dark fruits, liquorice and cocoa. Supple and invigorating, fresh acidity lifting the expression, nuanced and detailed. Softly grained tannins...
2021
Château Ducru-BeaucaillouSt-Julien
Château Figeac, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Deep, complex and precise, what a wine in 2021. Grippy and intense, this captures attention and holds it: the sharp zing of acidity, wet stone...
2021
Château FigeacSt-Émilion
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Scented flowers and red berries on the nose, lovely aromatics with green peppercorns, herbal blackcurrant leaf and floral scents. Rich and round for a 2021,...
2021
Château Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
I loved this wine during en primeur and I love it still, hovering over giving it 98 points. It’s round and lively but also full...
2021
Château Lafite RothschildPauillac
Château Léoville Las Cases, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Utterly captivating on the nose, fragrant and floral with soft orange flecks, sweet cedar and cinnamon. Textured like heavy silk, weighty with a hold to...
2021
Château Léoville Las CasesSt-Julien
Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
A showstopper of a wine that offers a fragranced nose of purple flowers, blackcurrant, cola and liquorice. Smooth and silky, this has a gorgeous weight...
2021
Château PalmerMargaux
Château Angélus, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Rich and dense aromatics, lovely black cherry and dried flowers, the Cabernet Franc bringing all the aromas. Supple and smooth, so alive in the mouth...
2021
Château AngélusSt-Émilion
Château Beauséjour, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Pink floral and raspberry aromas, fragrant red cherries and just-ripe strawberries. Incredibly well textured, alive and forward in the glass, this has energy and lift....
2021
Château BeauséjourSt-Émilion
Château Canon, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Gorgeous fragrance, pretty and pure. Juicy and clean, this has such a lovely energy and focus to it – lifted, bright but not searing, juicy...
2021
Château CanonSt-Émilion
Château Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
This stands out for its structure, subtle power, balance and finesse. Perfumed and softly sweet on the nose, ripe and concentrated, glorious and inviting. Creamy...
2021
Château Cos d'EstournelSt-Estèphe
Château Lafleur, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Floral and mixed berry nose. This is rich, ripe and round from the first sip, almost so you'd forget you’re drinking a 2021 – not...
2021
Château LafleurPomerol
Château Latour, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Richly scented, potpourri and herbs, ripe bramble fruit, dark chocolate, aniseed, cinnamon; so much going on on the nose. Fruity and full, but sleek and...
2021
Château LatourPauillac
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2021
A gorgeous aromatic display draws you in: crystalline, floral with iris, peony and violet, herbal, earthy and fruity. Sumptuous, this is a classy wine, beautifully...
2021
Château Les Carmes Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Margaux, Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Lovely soft floral aromatics, pretty and perfumed with red cherries, raspberries and blackcurrants, some liquorice and toasty hints. Round and smooth, silky yet concentrated, there's...
2021
Château MargauxMargaux
Château Montrose, St-Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Dark and milk chocolate, raspberries and red cherries on the nose, with a soft vanilla fragrance and some pink floral aspects. Great tension and direction,...
2021
Château MontroseSt-Estèphe
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Concentrated and characterful, layered and super-finely presented. Round and full, juicy and textured, more powdery than tense and grippy with almost blackcurrant skin texture, while...
2021
Château Mouton RothschildPauillac
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2021
You might question this was a 2021 vintage, with its structure, style and charm combined with drinkability and ageability. A vibrant nose: pink roses, blackcurrants,...
2021
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Troplong Mondot, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Delicate and beguiling fragrance with a bright and shiny, sleek expression on the palate. Direct and focused with tangy red berry fruit, acidity on the...
2021
Château Troplong MondotSt-Émilion
Château Trotanoy, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Perfumed and vivid nose. Supple and alive, plump yet streamlined, too - the initial bounce of round, ripe fruit straightens and focuses like a laser...
2021
Château TrotanoyPomerol
Clos du Clocher, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Dark floral and black berry fragrances and some toasty aspects on the nose, rich but pure. Scintillatingly fresh and bright, the acidity is the main...
2021
Clos du ClocherPomerol
Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2021
A wine you don’t want to put down. Not light, but round and full for 2021, with body and concentration, carrying its frame well with...
2021
Vieux Château CertanPomerol
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Wild pink flowers on the nose, with blackcurrant and cherry fruit, fragrant, almost sweet and sour, super inviting. Cool but concentrated fruit on the palate,...
2021
Château Brane-CantenacMargaux
Château Calon Ségur, St-Estèphe, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Gentle cherry blossom fragrance with raspberry, cranberry and red cherry. Floral and super aromatic. Tangy and clean, a lovely crystalline aspect to the palate -...
2021
Château Calon SégurSt-Estèphe
Château Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Floral and lifted nose, clean, clear and fragrant. Soft but grippy, chalky and intense, with a push and movement to the textured strawberry and red...
2021
Château ClinetPomerol
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
A pretty and fragranced nose, then a sense of true classicism with bright, shining acidity underpinning crushed-velvet tannins and undertones of cola, liquorice and cool...
2021
Château Grand-Puy-LacostePauillac
Château Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Scented nose full of cedar, coffee, chocolate, liquorice, blackcurrant and floral fragrance. Light and lean, but full of flavour, the fruit dances across the palate...
2021
Château Gruaud-LaroseSt-Julien
Château La Gaffelière, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2021
One of the more complete 2021 wines in terms of energy and harmony. Fragrant and ripe fruit on the nose, perfumed black cherries and a...
2021
Château La GaffelièreSt-Émilion
Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
A rich, ripe toasted nose, clearly concentrated. Good fruit density, underlying power and sense of structure. This has personality, it does feel a tiny bit...
2021
Château Léoville PoyferréSt-Julien
Château Pavie Macquin, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Gorgeous cool blue fruits, liquorice and salinity on the nose, clean but really expressive. Full and forward, quite intense with plump fruit, however there's great...
2021
Château Pavie MacquinSt-Émilion
Château Petit-Village, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Delicate but inviting aromatics of raspberry, red cherries and pink roses. Plump and nicely fleshy, this has a really enjoyable texture, is forward and in...
2021
Château Petit-VillagePomerol
Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Inviting, fragrant nose with pink flowers and red berry fruit. Pure and elegant with a crystalline aspect to the fruit, juicy and lively balance. A...
2021
Château Pichon BaronPauillac
Le Dôme, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Heady and expressive, lovely dark black fruit aromas and soft floral hints, vanilla, chocolate and toasted oak. Full, round and succulent, softly chewy, has great...
2021
Le DômeSt-Émilion
Château Belgrave, Haut-Médoc, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Aromatic and expressive nose, perfumed and black-fruited with dark chocolate and clove. Supple and agile, a lively character but with a stony undercurrent that provides...
2021
Château BelgraveHaut-Médoc
Château Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Green peppercorns, menthol and sightly herbal aspects on the nose. Smooth and silky, a shot of bright high acidity with a balancing creamy touch to...
2021
Château Branaire-DucruSt-Julien
Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Gorgeous fragrance and florality on the nose with ripe and perfumed black fruit and some peony touches. Smooth and supple, with finesse and concentration to...
2021
Château Cantenac BrownMargaux
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Fragranced and scented nose. Elegant, a little light and may be missing some extra plumpness for some, but it has backbone and structure with balanced...
2021
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château La Dominique, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Ripe, fragrant nose, chocolate, cherries and roses. Enjoyably textured, this has energy and focus as well as fruit concentration. Touches of vanilla and cream come...
2021
Château La DominiqueSt-Émilion
Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Concentrated and herbal, creamy and smooth, this is immediately classy with concentration, while keeping a cool blue fruit and mint freshness throughout. Structured, with well-defined...
2021
Château Léoville BartonSt-Julien
Château Valandraud, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Perfumed and potent on the nose with wood and toast tones. Lively on the palate, though, a shot tangy acidity and high-toned raspberry fruit before...
2021
Château ValandraudSt-Émilion
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Cherry blossom and ripe cherry on the nose. Smooth and supple, a nice energy and focus to this straight away with lifted acidity and a...
2021
Domaine de ChevalierPessac-Léognan