Château Roc de Cambes
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

A recent tasting hosted by François Mitjavile and Corney & Barrow in London showcased 20 vintages of Château Roc de Cambes, from 1995 to 2015. Stephen Brook had the tough task of picking his top five...

François Mitjavile, the eccentric wizard who conjures extraordinary wines from Château Tertre Rôteboeuf in St-Emilion, was keen to expand his famous property in the late 1980s.

Unfortunately that wasn’t a feasible option in this costly part of Bordeaux, so he instead purchased a 14 hectare Merlot-dominated property in the less fashionable, and less expensive, Côtes de Bourg in 1988. Named Roc de Cambes, it had similar clay-limestone soils which intrigued Mitjavile, a south-facing exposure, and ample old vines.

The winemaking here echoes that at Tertre Rôteboeuf, with fermentation in cement tanks and long ageing in new barriques. The challenge here, he declared at a recent vertical tasting at Corney & Barrow, is to achieve full ripeness while retaining freshness and elegance. In this he succeeds admirably, and even the lesser vintages at Roc de Cambes can be outstanding.


Stephen’s top five Roc de Cambes:


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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 2010

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Locked score

A very deep red colour with a nose of rich black fruits and liquorice. It has an atypical savoury character, yet it's complex and vibrant....

2010

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Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 2015

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Locked score

<p>Same stable as Tertre-R&ocirc;teboeuf in St-&Eacute;milion. Forget that it&#39;s from C&ocirc;tes de Bourg &ndash; this is a grand vin! Opulent and rich but with a...

2015

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 2009

My wines
Locked score

A very deep red, with dense plum and cherry aromas, very oaky and forceful. It is sumptuous and very concentrated on the palate, although...

2009

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 2008

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Locked score

Very deep red in colour, with a still youthful stern, oaky nose of reticent blackberry and blackcurrant. Although the attack is supple, robust and chewy...

2008

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 1999

My wines
Locked score

A wet and difficult vintage for Bordeaux, but a triumph here. Deep red colour, but not especially evolved. It has a juicy cherry and blackberry...

1999

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 2010

My wines
Locked score

A very deep red colour with a nose of rich black fruits and liquorice. It has an atypical savoury character, yet it's complex and vibrant....

2010

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 2015

My wines
Locked score

<p>Same stable as Tertre-R&ocirc;teboeuf in St-&Eacute;milion. Forget that it&#39;s from C&ocirc;tes de Bourg &ndash; this is a grand vin! Opulent and rich but with a...

2015

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 2009

My wines
Locked score

A very deep red, with dense plum and cherry aromas, very oaky and forceful. It is sumptuous and very concentrated on the palate, although...

2009

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 2008

My wines
Locked score

Very deep red in colour, with a still youthful stern, oaky nose of reticent blackberry and blackcurrant. Although the attack is supple, robust and chewy...

2008

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France, 1999

My wines
Locked score

A wet and difficult vintage for Bordeaux, but a triumph here. Deep red colour, but not especially evolved. It has a juicy cherry and blackberry...

1999

BordeauxFrance

Château Roc de CambesCôtes de Bourg

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Stephen Brook

Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its third edition, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recently published book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, and he writes for magazines in many countries.