Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023: Report and top-scoring wines
Châteauneuf-du-Pape performed well in 2023, with some high scores across both reds and whites despite extreme weather which took growers out of their comfort zones.
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While we were in the tasting room of La Vieille Julienne with Jean-Paul Daumen and his son Antoine, all of our mobile phones simultaneously sounded the same alarm.
It was to warn people in the vicinity of the Rhône river that it was about to rise to dangerous levels due to storms in the Cévennes mountains.
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The chaotic weather could be felt in the 2023 wines. Daumen described 2023 as, ‘a very extreme vintage… we’re out of our comfort zone.’
Due to sugar levels in the grapes, some of his tanks were still fermenting 12 months on, something he’s only experienced three times previously.
It was a long, drawn-out harvest period in Châteauneuf and yields were plentiful. Château de Beaucastel started picking its whites on 20 August and finished on 10 October. The long finish to the season ‘was perfect for Mourvèdre,’ said Beaucastel’s César Perrin.
Stylistically it’s somewhat mixed, but the prevailing style in 2023 is rich, potent and powerful. Alcohols are high this year, so finding wines with balance was the principal challenge.
It wasn’t always easy, as often the tannic structures were soft and acidities fairly low. But there are some very good wines, primarily from old vines that could withstand the dry periods and heat.
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The whites are more consistent than the reds this year. Fresh, intense, expressive and ripe – but rarely overripe, apart from some pure Roussannes.
The Clairettes are particularly fine and floral.
Key Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers in 2023
- Château de Beaucastel
- Château Rayas
- Clos des Papes
- Domaine de Beaurenard
- Domaine de la Solitude
Best-value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines in 2023
- Domaine La Manarine, Pied de Baud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023
- Domaine La Cabotte, Vieilles Vignes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2023
- Château Beauchêne, Vignobles de la Serrière, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2023
Under-the-radar Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers in 2023
- Domaine Juliette Avril
- Domaine La Manarine
- Domaine Mayard
Rhône 2023 full report and top-scoring wines
Southern Rhône 2023: The connoisseur’s guide
Compare vintages: See our coverage of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines from previous years
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Report and top-scoring wines
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021: Report and top-scoring wines
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020: Report and top-scoring wines
Matt Walls’ top-scoring Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023 wines:
The wines below scored 95 points or above and are listed white then red in score order.
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Domaine de Beaurenard, Boisrenard Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Currently this is quite discreet on the nose, but very harmonious. With lovely acidity, this manages to combine power, freshness and detail of flavour to...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de BeaurenardChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine de la Solitude, Vin de la Solitude Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Macadamia oak notes are accompanied by some struck-match reduction, adding a smoky touch. Only medium-bodied, there's no excess weight or alcohol here; it’s fresh, with...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de la SolitudeChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Château de Beaucastel, Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Attractive, fresh and open, with honeyed apricot and mango notes. It's full-bodied, but not massive by any means, and the acidity is low, as usual...
2023
RhôneFrance
Château de BeaucastelChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Château de Nalys, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

This shows roasted lime and peanut from the oak and is slightly reductive, giving a smoky finish. It’s actually quite light in body for a...
2023
RhôneFrance
Château de NalysChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Clos des Papes, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

This is a relatively full-bodied wine, with a pear and quince profile, slightly tingling acidity and salinity, and a touch of pink grapefruit. It’s certainly...
2023
RhôneFrance
Clos des PapesChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine de la Janasse, Prestige Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Rather fuller in body than the standard Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is equally ripe, but richer and with slightly elevated alcohols. The oak is well judged, but...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de la JanasseChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine de la Janasse, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

This is an explosively fruity wine, with ripe apricot and peach flavours and slightly noticeable alcohol. The powerful, rich flavour carries into the finish. It's...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de la JanasseChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Famille Isabel Ferrando, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

This is a very powerful white Châteauneuf – textural and driving, with intensity and freshness. The oak is mostly present in texture and shape. It’s...
2023
RhôneFrance
Famille Isabel FerrandoChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Château de Nalys, Saintes Pierres de Nalys Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A direct and impactful wine with salinity, freshness and acidity. It’s not weighty, but has real energy and focus. Medium length, with marzipan and pear...
2023
RhôneFrance
Château de NalysChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine La Manarine, Vin d'Ange Heureux, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A perfumed, petal-soft Clairette, full, satin-textured and very approachable. The oak is really quite spicy on the finish though, it might be a bit too...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine La ManarineChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Raymond Usseglio, Pure Clairette, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A very full-bodied, rich and textural style of Châteauneuf, this has real power and a mineral undertow. The alcohol is a little raised, but the...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine Raymond UsseglioChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Château de Beaucastel, Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A tasting of the final blend in barrel; very dark in colour. This is deep, wild and introverted; full-bodied and fully ripe with velvet tannins....
2023
RhôneFrance
Château de BeaucastelChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Château Rayas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Some of Reynaud's Grenache barrels were still fermenting during my visit in October 2024, so this is a provisional score. A tasting of Le Coeur...
2023
RhôneFrance
Château RayasChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Deeply coloured and quite dark in character, with damson and liquorice notes. It’s generous, full-bodied, quite spicy and fairly potent, with lovely bright, sappy acidity...
2023
RhôneFrance
Clos des PapesChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A tasting of the constituent parts this year, so this is a provisional score. The Terret Noir, Muscardin and Vaccarèse were fermented together; they provide...
2023
RhôneFrance
Château de BeaucastelChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Famille Isabel Ferrando, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Impressively structured, long-haul tannins. It’s fresh and well balanced, with good acidity and alcohol that warms without excess heat. This is a serious, savoury style...
2023
RhôneFrance
Famille Isabel FerrandoChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine de Beaurenard, Boisrenard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A tasting of the pre-blended constituent parts. The first sample, taken from an old foudre, is a medium-bodied, fresh, tense and lively style, with grippy...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de BeaurenardChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine de Cristia, Chappelle Saint Théodoric Le Grand Pin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

<p>There's a bit more spice and smoke to the whole bunch fruit compared to the Chapelle St Théodoric La Guigasse this year. It's a little...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de CristiaChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Les Hauts Lieux, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

This is so rich and ripe, with high alcohol and glycerol. The acidity is surprisingly punchy and really quite intense; there’s some limestone tension, too....
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de la Vieille JulienneChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine de Marcoux, Vieilles Vignes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

This has considerably more fruit, ripeness and concentration compared to the standard Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge, and slightly higher alcohol – this is pure (100%) Grenache after...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de MarcouxChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Juliette Avril, Maxence, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

This has a lovely nose of nutmeg, violets and liquorice. It’s full-bodied, generous and silky on the palate – fresh too, with the structure to...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine Juliette AvrilChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine La Manarine, Pied de Baud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A very good wine and the most impressive yet from this under-the-radar grower. There’s herbal freshness running through it and it has great energy and...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine La ManarineChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Mayard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Fairly pale in colour and highly atypical in its aromas, with an extraordinary array of herbs and spices, including rose petals, orange peel and garrigue...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine MayardChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Santa Duc, Habemus Papem, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A smoky and spicy style, with some juniper-smoked bacon and violets. Fine and fresh on the palate, with deep blackberry fruit from the Syrah –...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine Santa DucChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Santa Duc, Les Saintes Vierges, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Gorgeous spicy aromatics, with floral violet and rose notes, surprisingly powerful acidity and very fine tannins; the alcohol is slightly higher than in the other...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine Santa DucChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Santa Duc, Le Pied de Baud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

The 10% Mourvèdre really makes itself known here, with violets, blood orange, flowers and herbs. This has serious volume, weight and generosity, with fine but...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine Santa DucChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Famille Isabel Ferrando, Colombis, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A soft, juicy and approachable wine, only medium-bodied, with good acidity and freshness. It’s remarkably crisp for a pure Grenache. Not the most concentrated in...
2023
RhôneFrance
Famille Isabel FerrandoChâteauneuf-du-Pape
La Bastide St-Dominique, Secrets de Pignan, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

An elegant and smooth style of Châteauneuf, ripe but not overly concentrated, with balanced (if gently warming) alcohol and acidity, some sandy mineral notes and...
2023
RhôneFrance
La Bastide St-DominiqueChâteauneuf-du-Pape
La Ferme du Mont, Capelan, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Very dark in colour. A compelling aroma of menthol, iodine and woody herbs – rosemary and thyme. Spicy, peppery and very concentrated, with driving acidity,...
2023
RhôneFrance
La Ferme du MontChâteauneuf-du-Pape

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.