Colli Berici: Six to discover

The Colli Berici is a small region stretching 20km south from Vicenza in the Veneto. As the name suggests, it’s made up of a series of hills rising up to 400m. These fossil-rich, limestone hills were once part of an ancient tropical seabed, but as they were forced upwards they became exposed to the process of erosion.

Caves have been carved out of the bedrock, and the hillsides have been scoured away to create a series of valleys. The hills are covered in a variety of thin soils, including basaltic tuffs and bentonite clay formed by ancient volcanic eruptions, while the plain features a mixture of thicker soil layers ranging from coarse alluvial gravels to fine sand.

Climate

The Colli Berici experiences cold winters and fairly hot summers, with an average temperature of 14.1°C through the year. It’s also relatively dry here, with half the amount of annual rainfall compared to neighbouring Soave Classico.

Over 600 growers farm around 650 hectares, planted predominantly to international varieties. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc account for just over 50% of all plantings, while Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc account for a further 17%. A variety known locally as Tai Rosso (formerly Tocai Rosso) makes up around 10% of plantings, according to Colli Berici: Le Terre, Le Vigne, Le Ville [Consorzio Tutela Vini Cilli Berici e Vicenza, 2019].

Tai Rosso

It may account for only 10% of plantings, but Tai Rosso is arguably the region’s calling card. Originally thought to be indigenous, it is now known to be genetically identical to French Grenache, Spanish Garnacha and Sardinian Cannonau.

Due to conditions, the grape it has found its own unique identity in the Colli Berici, with bigger berries and thicker skins. The wines are usually light in colour, with flavours of red and blackberries and good acidity. Some producers mature their wines in oak, although concrete or stainless steel seems equally popular. Traditionally pergola-trained, more and more growers are adopting guyot training in the vineyards.

Local legend claims that a carpenter bought vines back with him after returning from service in the Austrian army. An alternate legend suggests that Tai Rosso originated from the Grenache of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, brought back by the cardinals of Vicenza when they visited the Popes of Avignon during the Western Schism which lasted from 1378 to 1417. Either way, the relative dryness, the thin topsoils and water-retaining limestone hills of the Colli Berici suit Tai Rosso very well.

Six reds from the Colli Berici

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