Wines of the Year 2020: white wines
An eclectic line-up led to an exciting tasting for our Wines of the Year expert panel, and the results offer plenty of reasons to venture into lesser-known white wine territory.
Now in its fourth consecutive iteration, our Wines of the Year is an exciting and eye-opening exercise in which we ask Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chairs, key contributors and staff to nominate the wines they most enjoyed in the years that was.
The nominations are categorised under Classic (a premium, textbook wine style), Offbeat (unusual grape, winemaking method, region or unearthed gem) and Value (£25 or under).
This made for a very exciting and eclectic tasting for the experts – Andy Howard MW, Ronan Sayburn MS and Beth Willard – to taste and score unprejudiced by preferences.
Scroll down to see tasting notes for our White Wines of the Year 2020
See more of our top wines of 2020
‘A tasting of wines chosen by wine experts could end up a little geeky, with people choosing niche wines that only their trade peers would like,’ said Willard.
‘But what I really enjoyed about all these wines is that, with a couple of exceptions, all have fairly broad appeal.’
Their assessment will, they hope, encourage people to venture outside of their comfort zones and try new wines, styles, grapes and regions. Especially when the unfamiliarity might not necessarily be reflected in flavour profile and that a given, unknown, label might surprise you with unexpected elegance and poise.
Willard and Andy Howard MW singled out the skin-contact Malvasia from Colares in Portugal, which Howard described as ‘a real eye-opener’. They also praised the Sartarelli Verdicchio. ‘It was a very individualistic, late-harvest but dry style, which is not what you normally expect from that grape variety.’
Ronan Sayburn MS highlighted the ‘intriguing and complex’ white blend from Friuli, the ‘fantastic’ Vidiano-Assyrtiko blend from Greece and the ‘amazing’ Trousseau Gris from California.
‘There are so many less- familiar grapes out there that people might not have tried – or think they don’t like,’ he said. ‘Give them a go!’
However, it was a very classic style that took the crown for top white – the Flametree Chardonnay from Margaret River in Western Australia.
‘It was my wine of the day,’ asserted Sayburn, who compared it to Meursault’s most-lauded producer, Domaine Coche-Dury.
‘It was a benchmark example of top-quality Chardonnay, with that very reductive, struck-match character on the nose, beautifully elegant fruit purity on the palate and a very saline, limestone minerality.’
Howard admitted he had been hoping for a ‘benchmark Sancerre or Bordeaux Blanc’, but came away fascinated by the array of memorable wines from ‘less obvious’ corners of the globe. ‘It did make me think that while there are some great wines in classic regions, there are also some really intriguing wines from places more off the beaten track.’
Speaking for all three judges, he said not knowing the prices (and the categories in which wines were entered) was complicated in many ways – particularly with such an eclectic range of styles – but there was a silver lining. ‘It means you judge solely on taste, quality and the “do I want another glass of this?” factor.’
And shouldn’t that be the ultimate criteria?!
This article is based on copy that originally appeared in Decanter magazine by Tina Gellie. Edited for Decanter.com by Ines Salpico. Tasting notes from Beth Willard, Andy Howard MW and Ronan Sayburn MS.
Decanter’s White Wines of the Year 2020
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Flametree, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia, 2019
Caramel and mocha notes on nose. Creamy with elegant balance between oak, fruit and acidity. Very typical Margaret River fruit with lovely lifted lemon, slightly...
2019
FlametreeMargaret River
Diamantakis, Diamantopetra Vidiano-Assyrtiko, Crete, Greece, 2019
Rich, powerful, distinctive Greek blend with lovely ripeness of stoned fruits, saline minerality and an underlying smokiness. Very good use of oak here, subtle but...
2019
Diamantakis
Jolie-Laide, Fanucchi Wood Road Vineyard Trousseau Gris, Sonoma County, California, USA, 2019
Ripe fraises de bois and juicy raspberry fruit on the nose. Great purity on the palate with an appealing freshness and vitality. Balanced acidity which...
2019
Jolie-LaideSonoma County
Ramilo, Malvasia, Colares, Portugal, 2017
A highly distinctive white wine which has distinctive, exciting aromas on the nose of caramelised sugar, floral notes and some intriguing umami character. Velvety texture,...
2017
Ramilo
Sartarelli, Balciana, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2017
The nose has lovely purity with honeyed notes, allied to apricot conserve and roasted banana. Late harvest style but there is lovely freshness here to...
2017
SartarelliVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Vie di Romans, Flors di Uis, Friuli, Isonzo, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2018
Intriguing blend of floral, perfumed Malvasia and Friulano with steely Riesling results in an aromatic nose with grapey aromas coupled with lime and salty sea...
2018
Vie di RomansFriuli
Bodega Alandes, Paradoux Blanc de Blancs, Uco Valley, La Consulta, Mendoza, Argentina
Interesting, complex, evolving white wine with a fine balance between lemon acidity and some intriguing tree-fruit character on the palate. Fresh acidity, very elegant and...
Bodega AlandesUco Valley
Clos du Gravillas, A Fleur de Peau, Vin de France, Minervois, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019
Rich on the nose with jasmine and lemons, just like early spring, with clear varietal definition. Beautiful balance and texture with obvious tannic grip from...
2019
Clos du GravillasVin de France
Notary Public, Jurassic Park Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Santa Barbara County, Santa Ynez Valley, Central Coast, California, USA, 2017
Attractive perfumed and floral notes on nose, with typical fresh lemon aromas. Subtle toasty notes combine with ripe fruit to produce a moreish, attractive Chenin...
2017
Notary PublicSanta Barbara County
Olifantsberg, Breedekloof Grenache Blanc, Western Cape, South Africa, 2018
Fresh, lifted nose with an attractive saline character and lemony sherbet notes. Bright acidity, great texture with a flinty, steely backbone and subtle oak adding...
2018
Olifantsberg
T-Oinos, Clos Stegasta Assyrtiko, Cyclades, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2018
Fresh saline and mineral nose with smoky pine typical of the variety. Rounded palate with liquorice hints and oyster shell salinity. Lovely herbal character comes...
2018
T-OinosCyclades
Leeu Passant, Radicales Libres, Klein Karoo, South Africa, 2014
A highly individual wine with a Fino Sherry edge to the nose. Smoky toast and butter with oak maturation evident but balanced and not overly...
2014
Leeu Passant
Dog Point, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2019
Herbaceous on the nose with bell pepper and pea shoots along with lime, guava and passion fruit. Some spice and exotic fruits on the palate...
2019
Dog Point
El Porvenir de Cafayate, Laborum De Parcela Torrontés, Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina, 2018
Fine aromatic, tangerine and orange citrus aromas plus floral grapey notes. Attractive herbaceous character on palate with very balanced and refreshing, grippy acidity and a...
2018
El Porvenir de CafayateCafayate Valley
Gut Hermannsberg, Vom Vulkan Riesling trocken, Nahe, Germany, 2018
Lime scented and smokey flint on the nose. Lean and racy with a pristine crispness resulting from the vibrant acidity. Refreshing and cleansing on the...
2018
Gut Hermannsberg
Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, Molesme, Rully, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017
93
Classic nose with some wood spice and ripe stone fruit. Cinnamon spice, smoky vanilla oak with pineapple, peach and some intriguing zesty, baked apricot flavours.
2017
Domaine Jean-Baptiste PonsotRully
Luis Seabra, Xisto Cru Branco, Douro, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2017
Macadamia, hay, and yellow fruit aromas. Weighty but fresh, rich but elegant with wood influence adding to the complexity and concentration. Fresh, sappy and with...
2017
Luis SeabraDouro
Ornellaia, Poggio alle Gazze dell'Ornellaia, Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, 2018
As 2018 was a relatively late harvest, bunch selection at picking followed tough ripeness criteria for each grape variety and terroir. Soft pressing gave finer...
2018
OrnellaiaToscana
Tony Bish, Zen, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2018
Deep and smoky with bacon fat, ripe pineapple, mango and banana. On the palate, a fine balance between ripe, stoned-fruit Chardonnay character and lively acidity....
2018
Tony Bish
Xavier Gérard, Côte Chatillon, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2018
Creamy ripe apricot and peach yogurt with toasted nuts and granola. Plenty of weight here, soft and luxurious texture on the palate. There is also...
2018
Xavier GérardCondrieu
Edetària, Selecció, Terra Alta, Catalonia, Spain, 2016
Saline and stoney, fresh and ripe. Ripe, fleshy, warm peachy fruit on the palate with fresh acidity to balance. Good freshness but also warmth and...
2016
EdetàriaTerra Alta
Naudé, Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa, 2018
Touch of smoke, with apple fruit. Great acidity to balance the intensity of ripe tree-fruit on the palate which is very concentrated and precise. Has...
2018
Naudé
Uva Mira Mountain Vineyards, Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
A ripe and creamy Chardonnay, typical of region, but with a bright, fresh salty character on nose. The palate is mineral, almost slatey without losing...
2017
Uva Mira Mountain Vineyards
Blackbook Winery, Controversy Pinot Meunier, Sussex, England, 2019
Fresh, youthful and vibrant with delicate red currant aromas. Palate offers sweet, red berries, sour cherries and balanced acidity.
2019
Blackbook WinerySussex
Miguel Torres, Viña Sol, Catalonia, Spain, 2019
Bright, fresh, and highly appealing with lovely ripeness of fruit and a light floral aroma. Palate shows crisp acidity and Mediterranean style with further intrigue...
2019
Miguel Torres
Casal Figueira, António, Lisboa, Portugal, 2017
Six rocky, limestone 50 to 100-year-old Vital parcels at 250-400m on the Serra Montejunto produce a cool, lemony palate, saturated with crushed coriander and fennel...
2017
Casal Figueira
J Bouchon, País Salvaje Blanco, Maule Valley, Chile, 2019
An interesting potpourri on the nose of wildflowers, a touch of sage, blossom and honey. Pristine flavours on the palate with fresh acidity.
2019
J Bouchon
Jim Barry, Lodge Hill Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2020
A very floral, lime and mint scented Riesling. Very dry on the palate with plenty of acidity and elegant lime fruit notes. Long and elegant...
2020
Jim BarryClare Valley
Kleine Zalze, Bush Vines Chenin Blanc Cellar Selection, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2019
Ultra-precise Chenin Blanc with great purity of fruit here. Some appealing hints of apple fruit, touch of peach and plenty of drive.
2019
Kleine Zalze
Naudé, Langpad Old Vines Colombard, Western Cape, South Africa, 2020
Good purity and a very appealing, early drinking example of Colombard from the Western Cape. Clean and fresh lemon citrus and green cucumber skin with...
2020
Naudé
Quinta do Vallado, Prima, Douro, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2019
Grapey and ripe sweet nose, floral, orange skin and tangerines. Ripe and rounded with fresh acidity and good length.
2019
Quinta do ValladoDouro
Fazi Battaglia, San Sisto, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Le Marche, Italy, 2016
Delicate nose with fresh citrus and an attractive green asparagus and green pea character.
2016
Fazi BattagliaVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Dr Konstantin Frank, Rkatsiteli Amber, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2018
Interesting wine with herbal aromas, ripe tropical fruit and some floral notes. Fleshy with plenty of acidity on the palate.
2018
Dr Konstantin FrankFinger Lakes
