DFWE 2023 Burgundy masterclass: Corton Grand Cru wines

Why Corton?

The hill of Corton is an arrestingly beautiful place to even the most casual passer-by. As one arrives from Beaune, it rises suddenly to dominate the landscape.

In geological terms, the hill is an outlier, freed from the main slope of the Côte d’Or by erosion. Vines wrap almost completely around the hill, facing every direction from northeast to almost due west, making this the only grand cru in Burgundy with a western exposure.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all 12 wines in the Corton Grand Cru masterclass

It is set apart by more than exposition, however. Corton is located roughly at the inflexion point between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune—it is the point at which everything changes.

The Côte de Nuits to the north is composed of older types of limestone, folded by tectonic forces under the younger layers of the Côte de Beaune to the south, creating complex geological formations around the hill and leading to superb terroirs for red and white wines alike.

A bit of history

Dr. Jules Lavalle was the pre-eminent sage of Burgundian terroir, and his 1855 work ‘The History and Statistics of the Cote d’Or’ is still considered the bible of Burgundy. According to Lavalle, ‘The wines of Corton are closer to the wines of Chambertin than to any other wine of the Côte d’Or’. High praise indeed.

Lavalle goes on to chart the history of the vines here to their origin with a donation in 775 AD by the emperor Charlemagne to the Abbot of Saulieu. The Basilica of Saulieu dates to the second century AD, when it was founded on the site of martyrdoms during the reign of Marcus Aurelius.

The Saracens destroyed the Basilica shortly after the abbey’s eighth century foundation, but Charlemagne rebuilt the monastery and its church, and he endowed the abbey with these vines to provide a means of support. These vineyards would largely remain the property of the church and the Dukes of Burgundy until the Revolution, when they were sold.

According to Camille Rodier (writing in 1920), Charlemagne’s donation corresponded almost precisely to the holdings of the Bonneau du Martray, descendants of Nicolas Rolin, creator of the Hospices de Beaune. The family purchased the majority of their vines shortly after the Revolution and the vineyards stayed in the family for nearly two hundred years.

Today more than nine hectares of the original Bonneau du Martray vineyard are owned by American billionaire Stan Kroenke, who has leased a portion to the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The largest landowner on the hill of Corton, however, is Maison Louis Latour, with nearly 24 hectares in total, including almost 10 hectares of Chardonnay. The firm began to amass holdings in Corton in 1890 when they acquired the château and vineyards of the Count de Mandat-Grancey upon his death.

Image problems

Today, the BIVB lists 99 producers of Corton (which can be either red or white, but is more often the former), and 74 producers of the white Corton-Charlemagne. There is, confusingly, a third appellation – ‘Charlemagne’, for white wines only, but only two producers use this appellation, since it largely overlaps with the more well-known Corton-Charlemagne.

Corton, however, has a more fundamental image problem than the confusion over these overlapping appellations. The vineyard area was greatly expanded during the creation of the appellation rules in the 20th century, diluting its lustre. Just how much has the vineyard grown? Lavalle mentions Corton itself (11.6 ha), Corton Clos-du-Roi (10.8 ha), and Corton Les Renardes (15.3 ha) for a total of just under 40 ha.

The sum of all of today’s vineyards, however, that can call themselves as Corton grand cru is more than 160ha – a four-fold increase since Lavalle’s time.

Although this vast vineyard is inconsistent in quality, I have long believed that truly great wines are possible in this special place. The trick is teasing out where they come from and who makes them. This, then, is my answer to the question ‘Why Corton’? A well-informed consumer will discover wines of breathtaking quality – and some bargains as well.

All the Corton Grand Cru wines tasted in the masterclass:

Louis Latour, Clos de la Vigne au Saint, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy 2015

Comte Senard, Clos des Meix Monopole, Corton Grand Cru 2020

Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy 2017

Domaine des Hospices de Beaune, Corton Clos du Roi (Faiveley élevage), Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy 2020

Domaine Henri et Gilles Buisson, Les Renardes, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy 2019

Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Les Bressandes, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy 2019

Domaine Michel Mallard, Les Maréchaudes, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy 2016

Domaine Faiveley, Clos des Cortons Faiveley Monopole, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy 2009

Domaine Rapet, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy 2008

Domaine Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy 2018

Bouchard Père & Fils, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy 2014

Louis Latour, Corton- Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy 2019 

Corton Grand Cru masterclass: All 12 wines rated

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