Cellar Collection 2023 at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter
Hundreds of wine lovers journeyed to all corners of the globe at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter's exclusive Cellar Collection room, where 20 estates poured three back vintages of one flagship cuvée. Tina Gellie reports on the day, while members of Decanter's tasting team pick a top wine from each producer.

Passports in hand, they waited patiently. Despite getting there early to avoid the inevitable crowds, the queue quickly grew, the hundreds of like-minded souls buzzing with excitement at their impending world tour.
No, not your typical Saturday morning at Heathrow Terminal 5, but outside The Empire Room at the Landmark London Hotel, where wine lovers attending the 26th Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) were awaiting entry to the exclusive Cellar Collection 2023.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the top-scoring wine from each producer’s mini-vertical
Back by popular demand, following its hugely successful launch in 2022, this year’s Cellar Collection offered DFWE guests the chance to experience a deep dive into vertical tastings from 20 hand-picked estates. Each winery poured three back vintages of its flagship cuvée, including one library vintage of about 10 years of age – or in many cases older – to demonstrate the evolution of the wine.
Tickets to the Cellar Collection 2023, which held one three-hour session in the morning and then another in the afternoon, were strictly limited and available to purchase in addition to the Grand Tasting tickets. And as with last year, the calibre of producers ensured both sessions sold out.
Each guest received a Cellar Collection passport, gaining a stamp at each table visited on their world tour – a memento of meeting the people behind these famous estates and having them introduce three different vintages of an iconic wine in person.

Cellar Collection 2023: A world wine tour
When the doors opened, the crowds raced to Italy’s Ferrari for its Trentodoc sparkling and to Champagne house Duval Leroy, which showcased a 1996 Femme de Champagne – the joint oldest wine in the room.
White wine lovers enjoyed a rare Rhône treat of M Chapoutier’s Le Méal Blanc Hermitage plus Saint Clair Family Estate’s Omaka Reserve Chardonnay from Marlborough in New Zealand.
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For reds, guests were spoiled for choice, starting with Louis Jadot’s Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, crus classés Bordeaux from Châteaux Beychevelle, Léoville Las Cases and Brane Cantenac as well as Napa Cabernet from Trefethen Family Vineyards.
Italy had strong representation from Allegrini’s La Poja, Produttori del Barbaresco’s Pajè Riserva, Fontodi’s Flaccianello della Pieve and Donnafugata’s Mille e Una Notte, while Rioja’s Remírez de Ganuza flew the flag for Spain, a highlight being its 1996 Reserva.
From South America it was Chile’s Seña alongside Argentina’s Catena Zapata and Achaval Ferrer, while St Andrea showcased its Merengõ Egri Bikaver Superior from Hungary.
To finish on a sweet note, our Cellar Collection visitors clamoured to taste the three vintages of Sauternes at Château Suduiraut and Florio Marsalas from Sicily, dating back to 2001.
Passports stamped and memories made, our intrepid travellers disembarked from the Cellar Collection and continued their world wine adventures in the Grand Tasting, with occasional stop offs to Masterclasses and Discovery Theatres.
If you already have wine wanderlust and can’t wait for next November’s DFWE, we will host an Italy-themed tasting experience at The Landmark London in February. Or, for those based in the US, join us at our third DFWE in New York in June. Sign up to ticket alerts here. Until then, look out for photo highlights from this year’s DFWE as you may be featured.
Cellar Collection 2023 highlights: top-scorers from each producer
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Duval-Leroy, Femme de Champagne Grand Cru Brut Nature, Champagne, France 2002

A truly luxurious Champagne from the Côte des Blancs house Duval-Leroy which opens with deep toasty aromas and a grilled nut inflection. A blend of...
2002
ChampagneFrance
Duval-LeroyChampagne
Ferrari, Perlé Bianco, Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy 2017

Produced since 1971, Perlé 2017 uses some of Ferrari's best estate Chardonnay, matured on the lees for five years (disgorged 2022). There's a slight patisserie...
2017
Trentino-Alto AdigeItaly
FerrariTrento
M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France 2012

An unashamedly rich and opulent wine, surging with plush ripe stone fruit, buttery and thick. Its demeanour is golden and sunny, with bright flecks of...
2012
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierHermitage
Saint Clair Family Estate, Omaka Reserve Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand 2010

A wildly aromatic Chardonnay that surprises in its character and the winemaking used to achieve it, from Saint Clair’s vineyards in Marlborough’s Omaka Valley on...
2010
MarlboroughNew Zealand
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Allegrini, La Poja, Veronese, Veneto, Italy 2018

The current vintage, 2018, represents a restyling which takes La Poja in a direction which Francesco Allegrini describes as ‘more contemporary’, with softer extraction and...
2018
VenetoItaly
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Seña, Aconcagua Valley, Chile 2015

So lively and vibrant, with crunchy cranberry, pomegranate, red cherry and blackcurrant jumping from the glass, topped by hints of wild herbs, cedar and green...
2015
Aconcagua ValleyChile
Seña
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2010

When tasted at 15 years, complexity remains. Ample florality brightens the aromas of black fruits, earth and faint hints of wood smoke. The palate shows...
2010
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Château Brane-CantenacMargaux
Château Léoville Las Cases, St-Julien 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2019

This vintage shows great precision at four years of age, though still very young and precocious. Deep mineral tones leap from the glass, the crushed...
2019
BordeauxFrance
Château Léoville Las CasesSt-Julien
Fontodi, Flaccianello delle Pieve, Toscana, Tuscany, Italy 2013

‘2013 was a special vintage for us,’ explains Bernardo Manetti, son of owner Giovanni Manetti. Fontodi showed three excellent vintages in the Cellar Collection room...
2013
TuscanyItaly
FontodiToscana
Achaval-Ferrer, Quimera, Mendoza, Argentina 2007

Named after the beast Chimera in Greek mythology which is formed by three different animal parts, Quimera is a blend of mainly Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon...
2007
MendozaArgentina
Achaval-Ferrer
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2015

A beautifully developing Clos Vougeot that showcases a complex bouquet that opens with mushroom and dried herbs, leading to perfumed sour cranberry, blackberry and smoky...
2015
BurgundyFrance
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Trefethen Family Vineyards, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll, Napa Valley, California, USA 2001

The 2001 vintage in Napa was known for its warmth and consistency, and this resulting Cabernet is just that, and a throwback to the region's...
2001
CaliforniaUSA
Trefethen Family VineyardsNapa Valley
Produttori del Barbaresco, Pajè Riserva, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy 2005

Produttori del Barbaresco is a highly regarded cooperative that makes beautifully fragrant, pure wines, and this 2005 Pajé Riserva is my pick of the three...
2005
PiedmontItaly
Produttori del BarbarescoBarbaresco
Remírez de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2016

Aromatically shy at first, this wine slowly opens up to strawberries, tomato leaf, balsamic and smoky notes of espresso coffee. It is starting to show...
2016
RiojaSpain
Remírez de GanuzaRioja
St Andrea, Merengö, Egri Bikavér Superior, Balaton, Hungary 2006

A refined, exceedingly elegant Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood) blend from a producer known for upholding the region's traditional styles. The 2006 greets with savoury notes...
2006
BalatonHungary
St AndreaEgri Bikavér Superior
Catena Zapata, Malbec Argentino, Mendoza, Argentina 2015

The label of this wine tells the history of Malbec by depicting four women: Eleanor of Aquitaine symbolises the birth of Malbec, the Immigrant for...
2015
MendozaArgentina
Catena Zapata
Château Beychevelle, St-Julien 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2012

Open and ready to drink, this 2012 has approachable fluidity and suppleness, its lifted mulberry and blackberry aromas entangled with cedar and spice. A silky...
2012
BordeauxFrance
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Donnafugata, Mille e Una Notte, Sicilia, Sicily, Italy 2006

Tasted in the Cellar Collection room at the 2023 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter, alongside the 2012 and 2019 vintages, this 2006 is in a lovely...
2006
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Château Suduiraut, Sauternes 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2005

A blend of 97% Sémillon and a splash of Sauvignon Blanc for freshness, this 2005 was aged in 65% new oak for 18 months. A...
2005
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Florio, Semisecco Superiore Riserva [SR0301], Marsala, Sicily, Italy 2001

2001 denotes the year these grapes were fortified, having been harvested in 1999. This Marsala has spent 20 years in barrel, resulting in a 33%...
2001
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Tina Gellie has worked for Decanter since 2008 across a number of editorial roles and is currently the brand's Content Director. An awarded wine writer and editor, she won several scholarships on the way to getting her WSET Diploma, and is a freeman of The Worshipful Company of Distillers. She has worked in wine publishing since 2003, including as Deputy Editor and Acting Editor of Wine International. Before her wine career she was a newspaper journalist for broadsheets in London and Australia.