Expert’s choice: Franciacorta

Franciacorta, a small DOCG wine region in Lombardy, 70km east of Milan, is uniquely positioned at the foothills of the Italian Alps. Its vineyards benefit from a warm continental climate, moderated by nearby lake Iseo and sheltered by the mountains. The gentle, southwest-facing slopes of Monte Orfano further provide an ideal environment for grapes to ripen while maintaining acidity, contributing to the distinctive and complex character of Franciacorta’s wines.

Scroll down for Federico Moccia’s pick of 18 Franciacorta wines to try

The moraine soils in Franciacorta, made up of materials left behind by glaciers, comprise a mixture of sand and silt with gravel. This composition is particularly rich in minerals and allows for high water retention – this ability to retain water can be beneficial in managing the vines’ water supply, particularly during dry periods.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are common in Franciacorta, often blended with Pinot Bianco. With growing environmental concerns, however, there’s a shift towards researching indigenous grape varieties and, since 2017, Erbamat – known for its high acidity and late ripening – has been revived. Erbamat’s attributes offer balance to a wine’s structure and may help combat the effects of environmental changes in the region, retaining freshness and crunchiness in the wines.

Inspiring styles

There are five distinct wine styles in Franciacorta. Spumante, the bulk of production, allows for up to 10% Erbamat and a minimum of 18 month on the lees. Satèn, characterised by its lower atmospheric pressure in the bottle, 24 months on the lees and sole use of Chardonnay (minimum 50%) and Pinot Blanc (maximum 50%), offers a unique smooth texture and elegant quality of fruit bouquet. Rosato is gaining importance in the region – reflecting a trend towards diversity – and demands a minimum of 35% Pinot Nero and 24 months on the lees. Millesimato emphasises the character of a specific vintage, and can be either spumante, Satèn or rosato with at least 30 months on the lees. And Riserva represents the height of complexity, aged on the lees for extended periods of at least 60 months. Together, these styles encapsulate the creativity, tradition and innovative spirit of Franciacorta, offering wine lovers a taste of Italy’s rich winemaking heritage.

The wines are known for their perfect fruit maturation and high quality, emphasised through extended ageing on the lees, ranging from 18 to 60 months or more. This ageing process contributes to their signature autolytic flavour, which blends seamlessly with concentrated fruit and is balanced by a creamy yet refreshing acidity.

Franciacorta is notable for its variety despite the region’s small size. There are at least five micro-areas that enable a diversity of expressions, distinguishing it from other traditional-method wine- producing areas in Italy. The denomination is undoubtedly positioning itself as a boutique wine region due to its small production and focus on terroir. Pioneer producers such as Barone Pizzini are notably concerned with taking care of the region, with a strong emphasis on sustainability – significant not only for environmental protection but also for delivering a fair product to consumers worldwide.

Federico Moccia’s pick of the best 18 Franciacorta wines

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