Famille Hugel: Focusing on purity of terroir plus 10 wines tasted

With history dating back to the fifteenth-century, Hugel are one of the oldest and best-known producers within France.

Scroll down to see Andy Howard MW’s Hugel tasting notes and scores

Based in Riquewihr since 1639, Hugel survived the 30 Years War, the French Revolution, Napoleonic Wars, the Franco-Prussian War, and two World Wars.

With its distinct yellow labelled bottles, it is one of the most recognised and respected wine families. Marc, Marc-Andre and Jean-Frédéric are the twelfth and thirteenth generation of the family, and the Fells tasting in February provided a great opportunity to taste and discuss the wines in detail with Jean-Frédéric.

Famille Hugel Factfile

Located: In Riquehihr, Alsace

Founded: in 1639 by Hans-Ulrich Hugel, a Swiss national

Vineyards: 30ha of which over half are Grand Cru

Key holdings: In Shoenenbourg (Riesling), Sporen (Pinot Gris) and Pflostig (Pinot Noir/Gris)

Team: Marc Hugel, winemaker, Jean-Frédéric and Marc-Andre.

Average production: 100,000 cases per annum, 90% exported

Wine ranges: – Gentil (blend); Classic; Estate; Grossi Laüe; Schoelhammer Riesling; Vendange Tardive, Sélection de Grains Nobles

Hugel’s vineyards total 30ha, with the majority Grand Cru. Grapes from a further 100ha are purchased with the estate focussed on varietal wines made from Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. All grapes are picked by hand, with just one blend being produced – Gentil.

When asked what was the common identity running through all Hugel wines, Jean-Frederic’s answer was ‘purity: purity of fruit with the Gentil or Classic ranges, but also purity in the way that nothing gets in the way of the terroir’.

The tasting showed that these wines are benchmarks for their respective grape varieties, with higher quality tiers adding extra layers of complexity, concentration and individuality. The purity of flavour described was certainly evident – Hugel observing ‘we believe winemaking is the opposite of terroir. We want to show as little of it as possible’.

Hugel has clear views on how this historical wine family continues to evolve, likening it to the Japanese term for continuous improvement – ‘kaizen’. Half the estate has been converted to organic viticulture (although this is not shown on the label).

More oak is now used in the form of barrique (up to 40% of the cuvée but with no new wood) and experiments took place with skin contact on Riesling and Gewürztraminer in the 2019 vintage. Jean- Frédéric declared himself ‘quite fond of the result – I think we will try it again when the conditions allow’.

As well as the Gentil blend, Hugel produce a number of different varietal wine tiers, starting with the Classic level which also includes 100% Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner and Pinot Noir in addition to the Alsace ‘Big 4’. The emphasis is on crisp, unadulterated fruit, balanced with fine acidity and texture on the palate. Riesling and Gewürztraminer were shown at the Fells tasting, and are classic examples of both variety and appellation.

Read the Famille Hugel Producer Profile here

Terroir Focus

From the 2012 vintage, Hugel moved away from its Jubilee brand (introduced in 1989 to celebrate the company’s 350th anniversary) to establish a more terroir focused tiering. With all grapes taken from parcels within Hugel’s vineyards, the range starts with ‘Estate’ wines; Grossi Laüe (local Alsacian dialect for ‘finest vineyards’) and a specific selection from one of Riquewihr’s most revered slopes – Riesling Schoelhammer.

Grossi Laüe wines aim to, at least, match German Grosses Gewächs and Burgundian Grand Cru. From the wines tasted, there seems little reason to dispute this quality level is being achieved.

Hugel’s Grossi Laüe Riesling 2013 comes from two plots within the Schoenenbourg Grand Cru and is only just starting to open up. This is a wine with decades life still left. Schoelhammer Riesling is from a 0.6ha plot with just 30 rows of vines. This historical site is considered by Hugel to be the greatest part of the famous Grand Cru vineyard of Schoenenbourg. The intensity, concentration and ageing potential of this wine is remarkable.

Finally, Hugel showed some stunning Vendanges Tardives and SGN Gewürztraminer. These sweeter wines can be produced with Pinot Gris, Riesling or Gewürztraminer grapes. These are thrilling examples capable of ageing for 50+ years, as shown by the 1976 Gewürztraminer SGN – still relatively adolescent!

See Andy Howard MW’s Hugel tasting notes and scores

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