Finger Lakes white wines: best new releases
Growers in New York State’s Finger Lakes region have been among the most innovative in America as they meet the challenges of their (very) cool climate. The noteworthy wines they produce today illustrate a delicious response to global warming.
New York’s Finger Lakes AVA is synonymous with Riesling. While keeping up with the evolution of the Riesling style here is essential (and fun), there is much more to the industry.
Still, Riesling accounts for more than a quarter of the total vineyard area, and top producers are now turning out world-class wines.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 Finger Lakes white wines
PLUS see recommendations for Finger Lakes red and sparkling & sweet wines
Cellar door sales have long driven sales in the region, and producers have supplied the market with sweet, inexpensive crowd-pleasers for years.
Still, over the past twenty years, more and more producers have been making riveting, acid-driven wines full of tension and minerality capable of ageing for decades.
Recent years have seen the appearance of single-vineyard wines that highlight different sites within the region. Forge Cellars, for example, offers eleven different Rieslings from the 2020 vintage.
Other producers work with a more limited palette of sites but produce a variety of styles from bone dry to off-dry to sweet, including fine examples of botrytis-affected and ice wine styles.
Many winemakers, however, also dream of expanding beyond Riesling to explore other varieties.
Chardonnay is often cited as the grape with the most potential. As long as growers and winemakers remain faithful to their terroir’s cold climate and mineral-driven nature and don’t try to emulate the richer styles of Sonoma County, they can produce outstanding, complex wines.
Other light-bodied, aromatic whites often attract attention. Many producers work successfully with Pinot Gris. Well-regarded Red Newt Cellars has produced several single-vineyard Pinot Gris and is currently working on an exotic experimental version of Pinot Gris aged under flor.
Winemakers in the Finger Lakes are also not afraid to think outside the box. Revered local pioneer Dr Konstantin Frank planted a vineyard with the Georgian Rkasiteli variety as long ago as 1983.
His great-granddaughter Meaghan continues the tradition and produces a version in the modern style (pressed and fermented in stainless steel) and a compellingly complex version fermented on the skins in amphorae.
See Charles Curtis MW’s tasting notes and scores for 11 Finger Lake white wines
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Ravines, Argetsinger Vineyard Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2019
This spectacular wine shows explosive aromas of lemon and lime peel, green apple and pear with hints of fresh hawthorn and an impressive minerality on...
2019
RavinesFinger Lakes
Forge Cellars, Wagner Caywood East Vineyard Riesling, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake, New York State, USA, 2020
This wine shows impressive concentration and power, with pronounced aromas of apricot, quince and ripe peach, although there is a lemon peel edge and some...
2020
Forge CellarsFinger Lakes
Nathan K, Tuller Vineyard Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2019
Kendall’s Tuller Vineyard Riesling is an assured and masterful emulation of an elegantly dry Rheingau Grosses Gewächs style. Pale lemon-yellow colour with hints of green,...
2019
Nathan KFinger Lakes
Red Newt Cellars, Glacier Ridge Vineyard Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2021
A superb wine from a challenging vintage shows a lovely apricot fruit with mineral intensity and a floral edge. There is a tension here but...
2021
Red Newt CellarsFinger Lakes
Silver Thread, Estate Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2021
Perfumed and elegant, with distinctive notes of citrus and ripe peaches and a pronounced, almost saline minerality, this aromatic wine has a lively feel on...
2021
Silver ThreadFinger Lakes
Trestle 31, Chardonnay, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2020
93
Hints of blossom and freshly popped corn introduce this uniquely silken, textured expression of Finger Lakes Chardonnay. While delightfully spry in fruit profile, its crisp grapefruit and lemon flavours are licked with dabs of hazelnut and crème fraîche. A supple, mouth-clinging wine that finishes on a bristling vein of acidity.
2020
Trestle 31Finger Lakes
Dr Konstantin Frank, Margrit Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2020
92
A dry Riesling with body from America's founding Riesling brand, their Seneca Estate block 3. The elevation of the site, along with the proximity to the large lake, creates a brilliant terroir that this wine expresses. Mineral-driven aromas of wet slate, petrichor and talc are underlined with hints of lemon zest and peach skin. The palate is lively and lush. Fleshy stone fruit flavours, fresh mint and beeswax, integrate with a lovely savoury herbal note. The finish is fresh, long-lived and distinguished.
2020
Dr Konstantin FrankFinger Lakes
Hermann J. Wiemer, HJW Vineyard Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake, New York State, USA, 2018
This lovely wine is fermented completely dry and shows pronounced notes of nectarine and gooseberry on the nose with an edge of exotic spice and...
2018
Hermann J. WiemerFinger Lakes
Forge Cellars, Riesling Classique, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake, New York State, USA, 2020
Among the best-value wines produced in New York, the Classique Riesling from Forge is elegant and accessible, with charming, concentrated floral and stone fruit notes...
2020
Forge CellarsFinger Lakes
Hermann J. Wiemer, Julia White Dry White Blend, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake, New York State, USA, 2020
Complex and almost other-worldly, this experimental bottling has hints of marzipan touched with caramel, hay, beeswax and earth. The texture is heady and dense, and...
2020
Hermann J. WiemerFinger Lakes
Dr Konstantin Frank, Amber Rkatsiteli, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2021
This expressive, slightly mysterious wine opens with notes of marzipan, candle wax and quince paste. The texture is rich and waxy, but the feeling is...
2021
Dr Konstantin FrankFinger Lakes