Tasting 2010 white Burgundy wines

Across much of Europe, 2010 was a tightrope vintage. Its high acidity nature could result in brilliant, vibrant wines, or harsh, edgy wines. For estates that succeeded in mastering the vintage, 2010 is a great year; for others, marginal. [subscriber-content]In Burgundy, the vintage was problematic: poor weather at flowering had reduced the crop, and while the summer was mostly warm, damp periods delivered mildew and botrytis in their wake. Scroll down for Stephen's 2010 white Burgundy tasting notes But it wasn't that sunny: weather watchers counted only 20 days of sunshine over the summer. August was cooler, then a warmer September brought storms and some botrytis. The Chardonnay did ripen, but the uncertain climate made the grapes fragile, and most growers decided there was nothing to gain from delaying harvest much beyond mid-September, especially as more storms were forecast. Yields were down by 10-30%. Despite these difficulties, the white wines turned out very well, even if they are probably not at the same high qualitative level as the reds - they are certainly less consistent. Nine years on, that is still reflected in the wines and it’s impossible to generalise about the vintage, except that there are very few flabby or heavy whites. Nor is it necessarily true that the finest crus delivered the very best wines: at this tasting there were wines of exceptional origin that disappointed, while some simpler village wines had kept their vivacity. Some wines now seem quite evolved, but fortunately the dreaded premature oxidation was not in evidence. The majority are well balanced, with attractive persistence and moderate alcohols. The appropriate comparison is not with the richer 2009s but with the steelier 2008s. Franck Grux, winemaker for Olivier Leflaive, has always held that view: 'The acidity is similar, but the 2010s have more richness as low yields concentrated the fruit.' I would have guessed, before tasting these 32 wines, that most of them would still be a distance away from their peak - but that isn't the case. True, a handful have the structure, acidity and energy to see them through the next decade effortlessly, however many others are approachable now, although there’s no rush to drink most of them now. To cellar systematically all white 2010s for many years to come could be a mistake. At the time of harvest it was often said that Meursault, which was more affected by botrytis than Puligny or Chassagne, might give disappointing and heavy wines. That does appear to have been the case, although they were some outstanding bottles from Meursault as well as other villages. Of the less renowned villages, St Aubin showed more positively than Pernand-Vergelesses – but then it usually is. 2010 white Burgundy in 2019: Wines grouped by village [/subscriber-content] [wine-collection] You may also like: Burgundy 2017: Full en primeur report Volnay premier cru 2010: panel tasting results Jefford: Challenge Burgundy Best Chardonnays outside Burgundy

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How does 2010 white Burgundy taste today?

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