Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay: bucking trends

Classified ‘Exceptional’ in Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay has long rubbed shoulders with Australia’s finest wines.

Held aloft in the 2018 edition of the auction house’s form guide, it was the only white wine included in Langton’s new top tier ‘Heritage Five’, reflecting its ground-breaking influence.

For Langton’s co-founder Andrew Caillard MW, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay represents ‘the beginning of Margaret River Chardonnay, the Gin Gin clone [which Leeuwin Estate pioneered and refined] and a distinct aesthetic and reference.’

This ‘distinct aesthetic’ underlines Art Series’ status as a true classic among Australian Chardonnays. Advised by Robert Mondavi, owners Dennis and Trish Horgan were the first to plant Chardonnay in Margaret River, in 1976.

Resolutely focussed on the Gin Gin clone, pristine and primary varietal expression and barrel-fermentation (it’s aged for 11 months in 100% new Bordelaise-coopered oak barriques), this tremendously consistent Chardonnay has bucked trends.

And why not, given fruit so potent it masterfully absorbs the oak? Impressive drive extends and balances Art Series’ flavoursome fruit and, released three years after vintage, it’s renowned for and rewards further ageing – as this vertical tasting ably demonstrates.

The terroir

Exploring the roots of its success, last November I visited Block 20 (planted 1976) and Block 22 (planted 1978), the hallowed yin and yang parcels which define the Art Series.

Located on a slope above Boodjidup Brook, higher up, shallower gravelly soils produce elegant, mineral Chardonnay. Below, loamier soils enhance palate weight.

Aspect is important too. Oriented north/south and exposed to sunshine all day, Block 20’s concentrated, generous fruit is the backbone. Block 22’s less exposed east/west orientation produces tighter, mineral wines.

The Gin Gin clone’s tendency to millerandage (poor flowering) produces both tiny (‘chicken’) and normal size (‘hen’) berries within the same bunch, which enhances structure in the wines. Larger ‘hens’ have higher acidity whilst, observed Head Winemaker Tim Lovett, thicker-skinned ‘chickens’ contribute ‘phenolic drive for age-worthiness’ – unconventionally, Leeuwin practises pre-fermentation skin-contact of six to eight hours for around half the grapes.

The style

Tweaks over the years have sought to reinforce house style and longevity. Marginally earlier picking ‘enhances clarity and purity of varietal fruit spectrum,’ according to Lovett, with the added benefit of reduced alcohol levels.

Since 2005, Art Series Chardonnay has been exclusively bottled under screwcap, while from 2006, malolactic fermentation was blocked. A touch of natural ferment has crept into some recent vintages, with its textural, savoury influence being most evident in the 2013. Lovett emphasises that, ‘we are searching for the clearest and purest expression of fruit and site, not necessarily chasing secondary characters.’

All of which reinforces Leeuwin Estate’s ‘treat ‘em like eggs’ motto relating to the Art Series’ precious grapes.

Leeuwin Estate factbox:

Founded 1973

Location Witchcliffe, Margaret River, Western Australia

Hectares under vine 155ha, of which 55ha is planted to Chardonnay

The Art Series is Leeuwin Estate’s flagship range, with different labels commissioned from top Australian artists every vintage.

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay back to 1987:

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