Morey-St-Denis 2024: Winemaking talent shines amid challenges
Charles Curtis MW explores how winemakers in Morey-St-Denis navigated the tumultuous 2024 vintage, offering a glimpse of the innovation and resilience on show.
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Morey-St-Denis delivered wines of surprising quality despite challenging conditions.
It was fascinating to see many talented winemakers tackling similar problems yet arriving at different conclusions and solutions after much soul-searching.
Scroll down for Charles Curtis MW’s 20 top-scoring Morey-St-Denis 2024 wines
The best wines have a fairly deep colour, forward, lush fruit aromas, and balance and tension on the palate.
Although the wines are lighter, leaner and more tannic than they are in sunnier times, top growers here produced good results through rigorous sorting and careful extraction.
At Clos de Tart, Alessandro Noli described the yields (13.5hl/ha) as ‘catastrophic,’ and decided to use no whole bunches in the fermentation.
At Domaine des Lambrays they made no changes, and winemaker Jacques Devauges describes his process: ‘We sorted like madmen, with three sorting tables, but we didn’t change the proportions of whole bunches: 40% for the premiers crus and 80% for the Clos des Lambrays.
‘We stayed in organic cultivation; it’s a guessing game. If you wait past the end of June, you won’t see much improvement from forsaking organic. In the end, we produced 45% less than a normal vintage.’
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Old school charm
The most interesting commentary came from Jeremy Seysses at Domaine Dujac, who felt that the 18hl/ha they achieved was respectable, given that they also maintained their certified organic status. But some changes had to be made.
‘I ran out of small tanks, so there were some that got no punch downs,’ says Seysses, ‘only pump overs or rack-and-return; but we did produce every cuvée.’
‘My father had serious health troubles before harvest,’ he continues, ‘and since Dad wasn’t around, I was the lead decision maker. Normally my father would say “Are you sure you want to destem this?” but since he wasn’t around this year, I hardly destemmed anything. Also, it helps to fill the tanks with something.’
At Domaine Ponsot, winemaker Alexandre Abel says that he lost half of his crop to mildew in one week, since the domaine was unable to spray due to rain. As is the domaine’s custom, the harvest was completely destemmed.
Abel says: ‘The weather at the end of August was finally better; the grapes had a chance to ripen, and botrytis was fortunately limited. In the end, we produced only 15 barrels of Clos de la Roche, while in 2023 there were 53.’
This remains a vintage mostly for early drinking, but wine lovers may be delighted with the ‘old school’ charms of some of their favourite wines here.
Top-scoring Morey-St-Denis 2024 wines:
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