Morey-St-Denis 2024
A year that required resilience and creativity.
(Image credit: Christina Rasmussen / Littlewine.io)

Morey-St-Denis delivered wines of surprising quality despite challenging conditions.

It was fascinating to see many talented winemakers tackling similar problems yet arriving at different conclusions and solutions after much soul-searching.


Scroll down for Charles Curtis MW’s 20 top-scoring Morey-St-Denis 2024 wines


The best wines have a fairly deep colour, forward, lush fruit aromas, and balance and tension on the palate.

Although the wines are lighter, leaner and more tannic than they are in sunnier times, top growers here produced good results through rigorous sorting and careful extraction.

At Clos de Tart, Alessandro Noli described the yields (13.5hl/ha) as ‘catastrophic,’ and decided to use no whole bunches in the fermentation.

At Domaine des Lambrays they made no changes, and winemaker Jacques Devauges describes his process: ‘We sorted like madmen, with three sorting tables, but we didn’t change the proportions of whole bunches: 40% for the premiers crus and 80% for the Clos des Lambrays.

‘We stayed in organic cultivation; it’s a guessing game. If you wait past the end of June, you won’t see much improvement from forsaking organic. In the end, we produced 45% less than a normal vintage.’

Old school charm

Morey-St-Denis 2024

Bonnes-Mares, a grand cru that straddles both Morey-St-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny.
(Image credit: Christina Rasmussen / Littlewine.io)

The most interesting commentary came from Jeremy Seysses at Domaine Dujac, who felt that the 18hl/ha they achieved was respectable, given that they also maintained their certified organic status. But some changes had to be made.

‘I ran out of small tanks, so there were some that got no punch downs,’ says Seysses, ‘only pump overs or rack-and-return; but we did produce every cuvée.’

‘My father had serious health troubles before harvest,’ he continues, ‘and since Dad wasn’t around, I was the lead decision maker. Normally my father would say “Are you sure you want to destem this?” but since he wasn’t around this year, I hardly destemmed anything. Also, it helps to fill the tanks with something.’

At Domaine Ponsot, winemaker Alexandre Abel says that he lost half of his crop to mildew in one week, since the domaine was unable to spray due to rain. As is the domaine’s custom, the harvest was completely destemmed.

Abel says: ‘The weather at the end of August was finally better; the grapes had a chance to ripen, and botrytis was fortunately limited. In the end, we produced only 15 barrels of Clos de la Roche, while in 2023 there were 53.’

This remains a vintage mostly for early drinking, but wine lovers may be delighted with the ‘old school’ charms of some of their favourite wines here.


Top-scoring Morey-St-Denis 2024 wines:


Domaine Bruno Clair, En la rue de Vergy Blanc, Morey-St-Denis, Burgundy, France, 2024

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Bruno Clair and his team have done a marvellous job with this white Morey, which features a very pleasant lemony fruit character touched by a...

2024

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Domaine Bruno ClairMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Amiot-Servelle, Clos St-Denis Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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The delicious 2024 Clos St-Denis from Amiot-Servelle is a very strong effort in a difficult year, with ripe aromas of black plums and raspberry and...

2024

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Domaine Amiot-ServelleClos St-Denis Grand Cru

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Domaine Armand Rousseau, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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Although the 2024 Rousseau Clos de la Roche is a bit less pointedly aromatic than its stablemate Charmes-Chambertin, it offers a lovely, silky fruit aroma...

2024

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Domaine Armand RousseauClos de la Roche Grand Cru

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Domaine Bruno Clair, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares is a rarity since it is on the Morey side of the vineyard, while most of the climat lies in Chambolle. It...

2024

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Domaine Bruno ClairBonnes-Mares Grand Cru

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Domaine des Lambrays, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru Clos Baulet, Burgundy, France, 2024

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There is admirable complexity and depth to this, showing ripe mulberry fruit and notes of violets, liquorice and earth. The texture is less opulent than...

2024

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Domaine des LambraysMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine des Lambrays, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru Clos Sorbé, Burgundy, France, 2024

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The Clos Sorbè is less forward than the other Morey premiers crus in this cellar, but it is a bigger wine with more structure, firm...

2024

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Domaine des LambraysMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Dujac, Clos St-Denis Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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The delicious 2024 Clos St-Denis from Dujac is an interesting contrast to the Clos de la Roche. The colour is bright, and the aromas are...

2024

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Domaine DujacClos St-Denis Grand Cru

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Domaine Hubert Lignier, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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Laurent Lignier has crafted a delicious wine from his holdings in Clos de la Roche, with dark plummy fruit and notes of ground coffee, earth...

2024

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Domaine Hubert LignierClos de la Roche Grand Cru

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Domaine Hubert Lignier, Vieilles Vignes, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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This impressive old-vine Morey premier cru has a lovely sweet cherry fruit aroma with an edge of exotic Asian spice and hints of earth and...

2024

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Domaine Hubert LignierMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Ponsot, Vieilles Vignes, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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The lovely, ripe blackberry fruit, with a bit of earth and spice, enlivens the initial attack of this classic vintage of Clos de la Roche...

2024

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Domaine PonsotClos de la Roche Grand Cru

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Clos de Tart, Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole, Burgundy, France, 2024

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The 2024 grand vin from Clos de Tart was firm at first, and somewhat unyielding. On a second look, the wine was more forgiving, with...

2024

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Clos de TartClos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole

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Domaine Arlaud, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru Aux Cheseaux, Burgundy, France, 2024

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There is a dark blackberry fruit aroma with hints of spice and smoke on the initial attack. On the palate, there is an invigoratingly fresh...

2024

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Domaine ArlaudMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Arlaud, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru Les Ruchots, Burgundy, France, 2024

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There is a hint of reduction initially, but this resolves over time into a lovely, lilting raspberry fruit aroma with an edge of peony and...

2024

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Domaine ArlaudMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine des Lambrays, Morey-St-Denis, Burgundy, France, 2024

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Lovely, spicy, ripe and round, this is an exemplary bottling in a difficult year, with expressive aromas of raspberry and blackberry fruit and hints of...

2024

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Domaine des LambraysMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine des Lambrays, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru Les Loups, Burgundy, France, 2024

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The 2024 Premier Cru Les Loups delivers ripe aromas of strawberry and black plums with a floral edge. The texture is silky, approachable and supple,...

2024

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Domaine des LambraysMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Dujac, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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The blended Morey premier cru from Dujac represents the domaine's customary cofermentation of Les Charrières, Les Millandes, Les Ruchots and Clos Sorbè (0.82ha in total)....

2024

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Domaine DujacMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Hubert Lignier, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru La Riotte, Burgundy, France, 2024

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Supple and forward, the Morey Premier Cru La Riotte is the opposite of the Chaffots – this is lush, almost decadent, with aromas of ripe...

2024

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Domaine Hubert LignierMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Hubert Lignier, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru Les Chaffots, Burgundy, France, 2024

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In the thin soils at the top of the slope above grand cru Clos St-Denis, Ligner’s parcel of premier cru Chaffots has produced a lively,...

2024

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Domaine Hubert LignierMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Hubert Lignier, Trilogie, Morey-St-Denis, Burgundy, France, 2024

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With its deep colour and fragrant aromas of black plum and mulberry, the Morey Trilogie is a delicious wine, albeit one made at a cost,...

2024

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Domaine Hubert LignierMorey-St-Denis

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Domaine Ponsot, Cuvée des Alouettes, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024

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This delightful wine from Ponsot is unusually robust for the vintage, with ripe mulberry fruit aromas and notes of peony, earth and spice. Firm tannins...

2024

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Domaine PonsotMorey-St-Denis

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