Pauillac 2017: Top wines re-tasted in the bottle
Don't expect blockbusters, but Pauillac is a good place to look for some of the most consistent success in the Bordeaux 2017 vintage, says Jane Anson in this report with in-depth tasting notes on classified estates' wines.
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See all Pauillac 2017 wines re-tasted in bottle
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After tasting 180 Bordeaux 2017 wines now that they’ve been bottled, and shipped in some cases, it’s clear that the hits are not evenly distributed in this vintage.Many showcase winemakers’ skills, or lucky terroirs, and there are some great bottles out there.In style, it is closer to 2011 or even 2001 than to the monumental 2010 or 2016s, and it’s greatest asset is that châteaux have almost invariably worked carefully with what they’ve got, and not tried to push for something more.In Pauillac, the natural advantage of gaining a few degrees in temperature due to its proximity to the river came in extremely handy in 2017.
There are many excellent successes in this appellation, and it is almost certainly where I would suggest you look if intend to buy ‘blind’.
Don’t expect blockbusters though – you will find dark autumnal fruits and firm tannins, but acidities can be higher, which can emphasise the tannins. A lot of the wines are showing an austere character.
Look out for: Château Pichon Baron, Château Lynch-Bages.
See Jane Anson’s top Pauillac 2017 wines re-tasted in bottle
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Château Latour, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Smells gorgeous - highly scented with lots of floral notes and ripe blackcurrants - the aromatics burst out of the glass. Succulent and juicy, lively...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château LatourPauillac
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Deep ruby in colour but not so inky as to be impenetrable - that is not their style. Nose subdued at first, but on the...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Lafite RothschildPauillac
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Graphite, black chocolate, pencil lead, blackberry and liquorice. This is serious, not holding back on its confident sense of power and depth. 100% new oak...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Mouton RothschildPauillac
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Smooth textured with fine-grained tannins, ripe cassis, silky red berry and cherry fruit and creamy oak. This is charming and quite forward, with graphite, toast,...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de LalandePauillac
Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Now part of the AXA Millésimes group, Pichon Baron was founded in the late 17th century. Its grand vin is sourced from the very oldest...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Pichon BaronPauillac
Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A rich seam of fruit here, full of gorgeous brambly and bilberry fruits, cinnamon and smoke, with a real focus on the aromatics. If it...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Pontet-CanetPauillac
Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Lynch-Bages has been part of the Famille JM Cazes portfolio since the 1930s, now run by Jean-Charles Cazes. Grapes for the 2017 (70% Cabernet Sauvignon,...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Lynch-BagesPauillac
Château Mouton Rothschild, Aile d'Argent, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

The only part of the Mouton vines that had some frost in 2017, yet maintaining its signature rich round flavours of creamy citrus and powerful...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Mouton RothschildBordeaux Blanc
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
