Pessac-Léognan 2017: Top wines re-tasted in the bottle
There are some lovely sculpted wines in this appellation, but the frost also took its toll on several high-profile estates, reports Jane Anson in this summary report with in-depth tasting notes.
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See all Pessac-Léognan 2017 wines re-tasted in bottle
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Vineyards closest to the city generally escaped the worst of the frost, while others were almost wiped out.Some of the big names, such as Fieuzal, produced nothing at all in 2017. Others, such as Carmes Haut-Brion, showed perfectly how geography played a big part in the year.
The vines for estate’s main wine, all located around the château and close to the city of Bordeaux, were untouched by frost, but those for its second wine, C de Carmes Haut-Brion, sit around one mile away in Léognan and suffered more.
Overall there are some lovely, sculpted wines that have made it into the bottle in this appellation, which will offer good medium-term drinking.
Most will only need another five to eight years in bottle, not the full 10 required in years like 2016.
Look out for: Château Haut-Bailly, Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Domaine de Chevalier
See Jane Anson’s top Pessac-Léognan 2017 wines re-tasted in bottle
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Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Grilled caramel notes set against sappy black fruit show classic Haut-Bailly balance, with savoury cassis and bilberry shot through with liquorice root and finely-spun tannins...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Haut-BaillyPessac-Léognan
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

The 2017s in Bordeaux are truly stunning; this is no exception, possessing a smoky bouquet with mocha, cocoa and toasty notes, and a fresh and...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Brilliant wine that continues to impress three years on from the En Primeur tasting, with a creamy but restrained texture, precise black fruits with a...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Les Carmes Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Rich, deep ruby in colour, and once again Chevalier proves that it has a better handle on difficult vintages than so many other chateaux. It...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Domaine de ChevalierPessac-Léognan
Château Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Clear blackberry brambly fruit character right from the start. The oak notes are evident but this is young and it feels like it has fattened...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Latour-MartillacPessac-Léognan
Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Among the deepest in colour, as is often the case with Pape Clement. The fruit feels well defined with blasts of blueberry and raspberry. It...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Pape ClémentPessac-Léognan
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
