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Regional profile: Bairrada plus top wines worth seeking out

This Portuguese wine region, home to the Baga grape, is experiencing a revolution as innovative producers focus on quality and explore the potential of native varieties. Sarah Ahmed reviews the changes and recommends exciting sparkling, white, red and rosé wines to try

Luís Pato, Bairrada’s original enfant terrible, celebrated his 40th vintage in 2020, declaring it ‘fantastic’. 2020 caps a decade of unprecedented harvests. Fellow winemaker Luís Gomes, who produces the Giz label, observes: ‘We have been achieving full ripeness in Baga before autumn rains in every single vintage, save 2014.’

Bairrada: wines to try

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