Rhône 2023 en primeur: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines
Matt Walls assesses the 2023 vintage in the Rhône Valley, which was marked by an August heatwave and more localised troublesome weather, especially in the northern Rhône. Walls selects 400 of the most exciting wines and provides in-depth analysis of the northern and southern Rhône crus.
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Rhône 2023 en primeur vintage rating:
Northern Rhône 2023: 3.5 / 5
Fresh, supple and drinkable reds at the southern pole; more concentration in the northern reaches, making for some very fine Côte-Rôtie. Vibrant, fresh whites, particularly good in Hermitage.
Southern Rhône 2023: 3.5 / 5
A juicy, ripe vintage, relatively soft in tannin and acidity, but nonetheless displaying detailed terroir expression. Châteauneuf more mixed; some excellent, others overripe. Consistently good vintage for whites throughout the region.
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‘When we get rain, there’s too much; when we get sun, there’s too much.’
This was Guillaume Sorrel’s summary of current weather patterns in the Rhône, and it’s one that many winemakers would recognise in 2023. It was a season of extremes that pulled this way and that, but most winemakers managed to wrestle good results from the chaos.
On paper it was another very hot, dry year – it didn’t break records like 2022 did, but it wasn’t far off. The year started out exceptionally dry, but thankfully the rain came mid-May – and it kept coming in regular small showers.
The water was welcome – crucial, in fact – but it brought with it downy mildew and black rot in the jungle of foliage that burst forth, particularly in the northern Rhône. It made for a demanding few months for vignerons.
Scroll down for Matt Walls’ top-scoring Rhône 2023 wines
Summer was hot. The heat rose in a crescendo throughout late August with a fierce heatwave that left an indelible stamp on the vintage. As in 2022, there were some blockages in ripening, but they weren’t as significant in 2023.
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The impact was typically concentrated grapes, reduced acidity and more potent levels of alcohol.
The result in the southern Rhône is a clutch of juicy, approachable and early-drinking wines that are enjoyably ripe with soft tannins and gentle acidity. This style can be found throughout the region, but the appellations that really surpassed themselves were the lesser-known crus – Vinsobres, Lirac, Beaumes de Venise and Rasteau.
Northern Rhône red wine of the vintage:
Stéphane Ogier, Lancement, Côte-Rôtie
Northern Rhône white wine of the vintage:
M Chapoutier, L’Ermite, Hermitage
Southern Rhône red wine of the vintage:
Domaine Santa Duc, Clos des Hospices, Gigondas
Southern Rhône white wine of the vintage:
Domaine de Beaurenard, Boisrenard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
See all 400 Rhône 2023 tasting notes and scores
The weather was similar in the northern Rhône – producers here were also hit by the August heatwave – but there was even more drama.
There were sudden, localised hailstorms in Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage and parts of St-Joseph. More seriously, there was a torrential downpour in the southern part of the northern Rhône on 18 September. Over 100mm of rain was dumped overnight.
Certain spots were hit worse than others, but it resulted in some dilute wines, particularly in Crozes-Hermitage.
Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, and the northern parts of St-Joseph, however, were spared, with just 20mm falling around Ampuis. So it’s a vintage of two halves in the northern Rhône – the wines at its northern pole are excellent; further south, simply good.
Southern Rhône 2023: Full report and top-scoring wines
Northern Rhône 2023: Full report and top-scoring wines
White wines were a success story throughout the Rhône in 2023. They have intensity, freshness and energy, and are more appetising than the 2022 whites, which are often heavy in comparison.
Most of the past eight vintages have been some combination of hot and dry, but they nonetheless all have a distinct style. They usually need significant time in bottle to show their best.
The 2023s, however, are immediately drinkable and enjoyable. So it will be a useful vintage in that respect, tiding us over until the others are ready to drink.
Key Rhône producers in 2023
Northern Rhône
- Benjamin & David Duclaux
- Domaine Clape
- Domaine Jean-Paul Jamet
- Domaine JL Chave
- Domaine Marc Sorrel
- Domaine Vincent Paris
- M Chapoutier
- Maison Stéphan
- Stéphane Ogier
- Yves Cuilleron
Southern Rhône
- Château de Beaucastel
- Château de Nalys
- Château de St Cosme
- Château Rayas
- Clos des Papes
- Domaine de Beaurenard
- Domaine de la Janasse
- Domaine de la Solitude
- Domaine des Bosquets
- Domaine l’Anglore
Top-scoring Rhône 2023 wines:
See below the 30 highest scoring wines, listed white then red in score order.
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M Chapoutier, L'Ermite Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023

This has the classic Ermite aromatic markers of flint, spice, smoke and salt. Very full-bodied, there's ample flesh here, all wound around an intense, granitic,...
2023
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierHermitage
M Chapoutier, Coteau de Chéry, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2023

Lovely jasmine aromas. Full-bodied, but not overly fat or heavy – it has great tension and energy. This is a very pure, linear and focused...
2023
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierCondrieu
M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023

A little closed at the time of tasting, showing pear, honeysuckle and apricot fruit. Full-bodied, very powerful and rich, with intense salinity and moderate but...
2023
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierHermitage
Domaine de Beaurenard, Boisrenard Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Currently this is quite discreet on the nose, but very harmonious. With lovely acidity, this manages to combine power, freshness and detail of flavour to...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de BeaurenardChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Marc Sorrel, Les Rocoules, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023

Slightly darker in colour than the domaine's classic Hermitage. Intense quince and pear, very rich and powerful, but has a dry, savoury, edge and a...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine Marc SorrelHermitage
Domaine de la Solitude, Vin de la Solitude Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Macadamia oak notes are accompanied by some struck-match reduction, adding a smoky touch. Only medium-bodied, there's no excess weight or alcohol here; it’s fresh, with...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de la SolitudeChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Yves Cuilleron, Les Chaillets, Condrieu, Rhône, France, 2023

Almond milk, jasmine and white peach notes. This is soft and gentle, full-bodied but fresh. It's well balanced and has good length, very classic and...
2023
RhôneFrance
Yves CuilleronCondrieu
Domaine Jamet, La Côte Brune, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

This has a beautiful scent of berries, smoke, earth, iodine and flowers (rose and violet), with herbal nuances and potpourri. It's so fine and fresh...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine JametCôte-Rôtie
Stéphane Ogier, Lancement, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

Immensely aromatic, with pink peppercorns, Turkish delight... just an unbelievable nose. The aromatics flood the full-bodied palate, which is incredibly silky and fine. It's a...
2023
RhôneFrance
Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Jamet, La Landonne, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

Iron, iodine and violets. Remarkably lifted for La Landonne, but still assertive, with serious energy and tension. Austerity is usually the watchword for this lieu-dit,...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine JametCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Jamet, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

A tasting of the constituent barrels, so this is a provisional score. Gerine has a touch of cold-fireplace aroma from the stems, the tannins are...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine JametCôte-Rôtie
M Chapoutier, L'Ermite, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023

This has beguiling smoky, flinty, petrichor notes. There's great energy, focus and salinity, it's straight as an arrow. The tannins are pure, fine and fully...
2023
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierHermitage
Benjamin & David Duclaux, Coteaux de Tupin, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

A spicy style with a good sense of ripeness, it's really quite mouthcoating but with super-fine tannins, good acidity and a long finish. Exceptionally fine,...
2023
RhôneFrance
Benjamin & David DuclauxCôte-Rôtie
Maison Stephan, So'Brune, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

Very cloudy. Incredible aromas. Bright, lifted lavender, black olive, violet and a touch of cassis. It's lower in alcohol, very fresh and light in body,...
2023
RhôneFrance
Maison StephanCôte-Rôtie
Stéphane Ogier, Belle Hélène, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

Unusually deep and dense for a 2023, but with all the freshness of the vintage. Mouthcoating bold tannins, deep, earthy and bassy, with floral top...
2023
RhôneFrance
Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Stéphane Ogier, But de Mont, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

A very attractive raspberry-scented style, this is perfumed, fresh and pretty. It's very much Blonde in style, with exceptionally fine tannins and lovely minerality. Not...
2023
RhôneFrance
Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Stéphane Ogier, Côte Blonde, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2023

A very complete wine, with lovely tannic finesse and plenty of freshness and concentration. Bright acidity, with a tobacco note. It's not quite as immediately...
2023
RhôneFrance
Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Domaine Marc Sorrel, Le Gréal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023

Powerful, explosive, peppery mulberry fruit. Very smoky in style, with iodine notes and lots of dense, ripe tannin underneath driving fruits. Very fresh and focused,...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine Marc SorrelHermitage
Domaine l'Anglore, Les Sables, Tavel, Rhône, France, 2023

Pale red, darker than their other Tavel cuvées this year. Raspberry and wild strawberry. Has a bit more generosity on the palate, which delivers great...
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine l'AngloreTavel
Château de Beaucastel, Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

A tasting of the final blend in barrel; very dark in colour. This is deep, wild and introverted; full-bodied and fully ripe with velvet tannins....
2023
RhôneFrance
Château de BeaucastelChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Château Rayas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Some of Reynaud's Grenache barrels were still fermenting during my visit in October 2024, so this is a provisional score. A tasting of Le Coeur...
2023
RhôneFrance
Château RayasChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2023

Deeply coloured and quite dark in character, with damson and liquorice notes. It’s generous, full-bodied, quite spicy and fairly potent, with lovely bright, sappy acidity...
2023
RhôneFrance
Clos des PapesChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Château de St Cosme, Le Claux, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2023

Plum and damson fruit with Christmas spicing, this is full-bodied, fully concentrated and fresh, with wonderful textural finesse. The oak work is still integrating, but...
2023
RhôneFrance
Château de St CosmeGigondas
Domaine des Bosquets, Le Regard Loin, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2023

Barrel sample so a provisional score. A punchy, potent and ripe style with big concentration and big alcohol. Huge body and power and very tannic....
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine des BosquetsGigondas

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.