Rhône producer to know: Domaine Gramenon, Vinsobres
For exceptional freshness and wines with stories to tell, look no further than the biodynamic Domaine Gramenon. Matt Walls sheds a light on this exciting Southern Rhône producer.
In 1978, Michèle Aubéry-Laurent and her husband Philippe Laurent bought a run-down farmhouse and accompanying vineyards in a village called Montbrison-sur-Lez, in the remote north-eastern frontier of the Southern Rhône.
They had three children. Michèle was a nurse and Philippe made organic wine – he was an early pioneer of natural wine, in fact, and they still adhere to this vision today.
When Philippe died unexpectedly in 1990, it was up to Michèle to care for the vines and the children single-handedly.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for three Domaine Gramenon wines
Taking the reins
Today she works together with her son Maxime-François Laurent. They make wines from biodynamic vineyards scattered close to their home in unfamiliar appellations such as Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Valréas and Vinsobres.
Maxime-François also runs a small negociant business under his own name, making wine from grapes bought from local growers.
Some of their best wines are bottled under AOC Côtes-du-Rhône.
Montbrison may not be part of any prestigious appellation, but it’s close to the Massif de la Lance mountain range. This marks the end of the Southern Rhône vineyards and benefits from the freshness and natural acidity that the northerly location provides.
No doubt the wines would cost far more if they were bottled under a more famous appellation.
The wines of Domaine Gramenon
Though the domaine makes enjoyable white and even sparkling wines, its speciality is old-vine Grenache.
The La Sagesse cuvée comes from 50- to 70-year-old vines in Montbrison, grown on limestone and sand.
The vines for the La Papesse bottling are 60 years old, grown across mixed soils of marl, sand and pebbles in Vinsobres.
La Mémé comes from 120-year-old vines on sandy soils in Montbrison. There are more cuvées too, and all are worth discovering.
This domaine creates beautifully crafted wines that tell vivid tales: wines that are like tapestries.
In the UK, Domaine Gramenon flies under the radar, but it’s time it was more widely recognised for what it is: one of the greatest, most soulful estates of the Rhône Valley.
See Matt Walls’ tasting notes and scores for three Domaine Gramenon wines tasted:
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Domaine Gramenon, La Vie on y est, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
Aromatic, but subtly so. It’s rounded and floral on the palate, with a touch of inner sweetness that’s very amiable. A very drinkable Côtes du...
2019
Domaine GramenonCôtes du Rhône
Domaine Gramenon, Contre Couleur, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2017
An amazingly forthcoming and vibrant nose that speaks of lilies, blood and iron. Beautiful freshness, minerality and vibrancy on the palate, which is cooling despite...
2017
Domaine GramenonCôtes du Rhône
Domaine Gramenon, La Sagesse, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
Expressive, if only gently open on the nose at this stage, with notes of violets, blueberries and liquorice. Medium- to full-bodied, with fresh aromatics and...
2019
Domaine GramenonCôtes du Rhône
