Ribera del Duero Report 2025: Why the region’s white varieties are a secret weapon waiting to be unleashed
The premium Spanish region has a global reputation for its intense reds. But are whites one of its most exciting categories? Our experts challenge producers to explore further.
Ribera del Duero might be synonymous with red wines. Yet, one of the region’s fastest-evolving styles comes in different shades of yellow and gold.
The emergence of Ribera del Duero whites is, above all, an inevitable consequence of the renewed engagement with the local viticultural heritage and winemaking traditions.
The effort to preserve old, neglected old vineyards – many of them intriguing field blends – has expanded the winemaking palette beyond Tinto Fino.
White variety Albillo Mayor is now claiming its rightful place as one of the region’s leading varieties – in quality if certainly not in quantity.
With 353ha planted (2024 data) against 25,615ha of Tinto Fino, Albillo Mayor accounted for less than 1% of production in the 2024 harvest (609,395hl of a total 95,496,603hl).
Indeed, in the past couple of decades the vineyard area has steadily decreased.
Considering that most white grapes can be found in older plots, this trend is a worrying symptom of the abandonment of old vines that a new wave of producers is determined to stop.
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Albillo Mayor’s contribution goes beyond the exciting wines it can produce though. Blended with Tinto Fino (either in the field or in the cellar) for both reds and claretes (wines produced by co-fermenting reds and white grapes, stylistically falling between an intense rosé and a light red), it’s become an essential element in the pursuit of finesse and balance.
Also interesting is how this ‘white wine revival’ is informing the choices and palates of winemakers more broadly. Many of the producers we spoke to are playing with Albillo, using its skins as pied de cuve for red fermentations (using already fermenting must to kickstart a new fermentation) and/or using barrels previously used for white fermentation to age their reds.
Are we on the cusp of Ribera del Duero’s own ‘white revolution’?
The numbers above suggest that this is not the case. But the stylistic and cultural impact of this yet timid revival cannot be underestimated.
Setting the bar high
It’s hard to offer a conclusive assessment of current white wine production in Ribera given that only 15 of the 316 wines we tasted were white (all single varietal Albillo Mayor).
Still, the tight line up made a strong case. The baseline quality is notably high and the best examples show both strong sense of place and ageing potential.
Albillo Mayor’s textural appeal and affinity with wood (and indeed other fermentation and ageing vessels) make it an obvious candidate for expressive, ageworthy fine white wines.
Our top-scorers successfully combined concentration, texture and phenolic grip to deliver both moreish intensity and smoky finesse.
A word of encouragement
Less than a conclusion, this year’s report delivers a message of encouragement for producers, many of whom are still approaching the category tentatively.
The fact that we tasted many (outstanding) barrel samples and ‘unreleased experiments’ is testament both to this hesitation and to an incredible potential, yet to be fully unleashed.
Looking ahead to our future reports, we hope producers embrace white wine production (and Albillo Mayor) with confidence and determination, not just as an experiment or afterthought.
Ribera del Duero Report 2025: The whites
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Ines is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, she grew up chasing her grandfather among his vines in Ribatejo and thus her love for all things wine began. After completing her Masters Degree in Architecture, Ines worked as a project manager while writing about wine and doing cellar consulting on the side. After moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed, while completing her WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.