Rioja Report 2025: The white wines
Best known for its red wines, there have always been white wines to be found in Rioja. But the quality and variety now being produced is nothing short of revolutionary.
It’s been said often enough, in recent times, as peace agreements in Ukraine and the Middle East remain elusive: peace is a process, requiring work and commitment – not an event.
The same could be said of revolutions.
Rioja’s ‘white revolution’ is the perfect example of a process unfolding, with a lot of work and commitment from producers – no doubt in response to consumer demand, but also as a product of a re-appreciation of the region’s heritage and pre-phylloxera palette of grapes and styles.
Scroll down for notes and scores of the tasting’s best white wines
Not that long ago, the fact that 152 of the 700+ wines we tasted were white (including at least 10 with enough skin maceration to fall under the ‘orange’ category) would certainly have been unlikely.
White Rioja is evolving, deeply and rapidly, with a new canon emerging alongside its red counterpart.
The selection here reflects the evolution of these classics; some firmly established, others still carving their space, all recognisable in the glass, stylistically assertive and technically pristine (albeit so differently made, which explains the wide array of vintages released in the same 12 months).
Excellence & diversity
The best white wines we tasted are simply world class. Comparisons between white Rioja and white Burgundy have become a cliché – helpful if trying to contextualise quality and commercial potential, but also arguably unfair.
There’s an unmistakable Riojan identity to wines such as Murrieta’s Capellanía, Jesús Acha’s Senda de Haro and Victor Ausejo’s Parcela 333. It’s not just a matter of place and grape variety, but also of structure and texture – a towering assertiveness to the acid backbone; an elegant yet muscular savouriness on the palate.
The stylistic range – from CVNE’s Monopole Clásico GR to Alonso & Pedrajo’s Suañé, via Ostatu’s Lore and Conde Valdemar’s Finca Alto Cantabria
– is wide but delivered with consistency.
Differences in how wood – and as its counterpoint, reduction (a technical winemaking feature induced by fermenting in the absence of oxygen and often described as an aroma of flint, smoke, struck match or even asparagus) – is used, were particularly interesting.
Gone are the days when flagship white Rioja meant nutty depth and oxidative intensity. Here we see top wines of flinty verve and chalky smokiness; wines of chiselled fruit alongside expressions with firm phenolic- laden grip; and wines that remain unapologetically classical, framed by spicy wood.
This makes for a fascinating coexistence of traditional, modern and post-modern Rioja – a theme throughout the report and certainly one of the most exciting processes happening in the region, with this ‘clash’ of perspectives opening new views and possibilities, not least on the white front.
The next challenge
But for a more coherent picture of what white Rioja is – and can be – to become clear, more ambition is needed at the lower end of the price spectrum.
The wines shown here can, for the most part, be described as ‘premium’; humbler whites didn’t show the same character and consistency or indeed the same confidence and energy as the reds at the same price.
If it’s at mid- to premium-level that white Rioja has potential to become truly competitive, a battling entry-point needs to tell the same tale of regional identity and differentiated quality.
However, given how rapidly the category is evolving, we’ll no doubt see exciting developments in our 2026 report!
Rioja Report 2025: The best white wines
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CVNE, Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018
Amber in colour, this is a beautiful interpretation of aged white Rioja with a really extended ageing period. A Viura-dominant blend sourced from dry-farmed and...
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Marques de Murrieta, Capellanía, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
<p>The 6ha Capellanía vineyard at 485m, the highest point of the Ygay estate in Rioja Alta, this 100% Viura was fermented in 9,400-litre concrete vats...
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Viñedos El Pacto, Jesús Acha, Senda de Haro Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018
97
Subtle reduction, with struck-match aromas, add complexity to the wine. While it's reminiscent of top Burgundy, I'm hesitant to make that comparison because this is stunning in its own right. The palate is saline with fabulous texture. Mouthfilling, but supported by impressive acidity. This is a fantastic Viura (blended with small amounts of Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Jaina and others), reinterpreted for modern times. Senda de Haro is in Cárdenas, Rioja Alta, and is a 0.47ha plot, planted in 1912 on ferrous clay, that was a favourite of local grower Jésus Acha. A six-hour skin maceration precedes spontaneous fermentation then ageing for 18 months in second-use barrels from France and eastern Europe.
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Domaine Canadell-Sánchez, Montezuria, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
The 2023 is 90% Viura, 10% Tempranillo Blanco sourced from numerous parcels totalling 11ha located between Labastida and San Vicente de la Sonsierra, east of...
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Miguel Merino, Blanco, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
This wine presents wonderful purity – of varieties and vineyard – with direct, precise lemon and salinity, as well as white floral notes. It offers racy...
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Remírez de Ganuza, Blanco Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021
While immediately recognisable as an aged white Rioja – it's a blend of 75% Viura, 5% Malvasía and 20% other varieties from vines averaging 60...
2021
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Viñedos de Alfaro, Real Agrado Las Planas, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
An oxidative style of white Rioja with a nod to Sherry. Bright camomile, linden and bitter almond aromas reveal a full-bodied palate. Citrus peel and...
2019
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Victor Ausejo, Parcela 333 Garnacha Blanca, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
From a 2ha plot at 546m in Clavijo, Rioja Oriental, 100% Garnacha Blanca fermented in 80% concrete and 20% stainless steel tanks where it was...
2023
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Bodegas Bhilar, Carrakripan, Rioja, Alavesa, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
Appealing stony reduction reveals a serious wine with a touch of gun powder and apple peel. Toasty walnut character on the palate married with lemon...
2019
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Hacienda López de Haro, Classica Gran Reserva Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2014
Another wonderful example of aged white Rioja with an inherent creaminess, volume and immediate appeal. It has the potential to age further but is absolutely...
2014
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Carlos Sánchez, Buradón Las Plegarias, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Lemon peel and pithy freshness combine with intense and satisfying salinity. Well-managed oak brings a certain creaminess with green apple and pear, alongside white peach...
2023
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Sierra de Toloño, Nahikun, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Chamomile, hemp and wild spring meadow make for a fresh and somewhat wild Rioja white wine, that speaks of its origins. It's clearly made in...
2023
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Valenciso, Fermentado en Barrica, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Inviting toasty, spicy oak opens to a rich and creamy palate with bright acidity. Garnacha Blanca brings intense saline notes and white floral character while...
2023
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Finca Allende, Marure, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021
Pleasant nuttiness with classic, masterful wood integration. Lemon zest, yellow apple pie and pickled walnuts mingle harmoniously. Beautiful classicism, with smokiness over the yellow and...
2021
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Alonso & Pedrajo, Suañé Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
Minimal intervention, 75% Viura and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, organically farmed on two plots at 615m and 580m respectivel, from vines more than 70 years old....
2019
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Bodegas Conde Valdemar, Finca Alto Cantabria, Rioja, Viñedo Singular, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Very elegant with well-integrated and supportive oak, this is a great example of barrel-aged 100% Viura (fermented in a mix of stainless steel tanks and...
2023
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Exopto, Vino Blanco Field Blend, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
This has a very authentic character that seems to come straight from the vineyard, with white floral notes, bright lemony aromas and green apple. There...
2023
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Izadi, Selección Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
With white floral aromas and a touch of white pepper spice, this is a lively and complex white Rioja that speaks of old vines or...
2023
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Bodegas Javier San Pedro Ortega, Villahuercos, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Subtle, well crafted and elegant with smoky notes and green asparagus aromas leading the nose. It offers plenty of white pepper and floral character, typical...
2022
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Bodegas de la Marquesa, Valserrano Blanco, Rioja, Alavesa, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
With a discreet use of oak, this is a balanced, finessed white wine that still offers a certain palate weight and creaminess. Bright citrus fruit...
2023
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Bodegas Ostatu, Lore, Rioja, Alavesa, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Lovely minerality and citrus freshness are outlined by an alluring flinty edge. Good balance and vibrant tension between oxidative and reductive characters. Lemon peel, Asian...
2022
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Juan Carlos Sancha, Ad Libitum Maturana Blanca, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
93
Fennel top, powdered ginger, yellow apple, pear peel and quince, with a smoky depth of field to the yellow fruit and lemon curd. The mid palate has a pleasant weight, balanced by a firm acid backbone. Long finish with a peppery and gingery finish.
2023
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Berta Valgañón, Pretium White, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2020
Purity of fruit with a great vibrancy to the yellow citrus and white orchard fruit. Lemon zest, white grapefruit, yellow plum and pear peel. It's...
2020
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Barbarot, Valtracones, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
A very subtle nuttiness (toasted almonds, walnuts) adds depth to the plum peel, red apple, cooked yellow apple and quince fruit. A fleshy core of...
2022
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Betolaza, Blanco, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
92
There is a certain sherry-like character to this wine with a touch of chamomile, dried flowers and bitter almond. It gives the impression of being produced under flor (although it wasn't) which results in an interesting texture with delicate honey notes and a stony, almost grippy finish.
2023
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Dominio de Queirón, Mi Lugar, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021
With a creamy texture and stone fruit, this offers attractive evolution while still maintaining a salty touch that keeps the wine fresh. The oak is...
2021
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Bodegas Nivarius, Viura de Viñas Viejas Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
Floral and herbal notes top the white and yellow orchard fruit, with a flinty veil. Clementine zest, melon, pear peel and red apple fill the...
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Bodegas Muriel, Viña Muriel Vino Blanco de Elciego, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2020
Toasted almonds, roasted walnuts, yellow apple peel and quince, with some fennel top and dried herbs (oregano and sage). This has poise and drive. Great...
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Bodegas Santalba, Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2017
Smoky toasted almonds, crunchy quince and red apple at the core, all sprinkled with freshly cut fennel top. Cinnamon, apple strudel, dried rose petals and...
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Solabal, Viura, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Aromas of lemon and green apple lead to a somewhat creamy palate, with a touch of cinammon spice and white pepper on finish. Lively and...
2022
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Viñedos Real Rubio, GMT 125, Rioja, Oriental, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Pleasant, subtle smoky nuances hover over the white orchard and citrus fruits, sprinkled with shaved almonds. Quince, white peach, yellow apple, pear and almond peel...
2022
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