Romano Dal Forno Amarone: 1988-2010
A rare opportunity to taste 20 vintages of Dal Forno's Amarone, organised by , in London.
Romano Dal Forno’s eponymous winery deserves more recognition within the collectors’ community, as he produces some of the most mind-bending, beautiful wines anywhere in the world.
Scroll down to see all 20 vintages of Romano Dal Forno Amarone
The philosophy
Romano is a problem solver and a perfectionist. His family background was in grape growing, not winemaking, owning vines outside of the heartland of the Classico zone. He founded his winery in 1983, and hasn’t looked back since.
Perhaps because of his lack of experience and the challenges he faced as a winemaker, he began to focus on a scientific approach that defines the style of his wines to this day.
There is a hint of recognition here for the great Bordeaux châteaux; his grand, sprawling winery echoes the great estates of the Médoc, and his near-obsession with reductive winemaking stems from an aim to match the renowned ageabililty of the top cru classés.
One can also detect some influence of fellow Amarone producer Giuseppe Quintarelli, famed for the richness and quality of his wines.
A key step in the vineyard that came from some early meetings with Quintarelli was increasing vine density and reducing yields by green-harvesting.
About this tasting
This tasting of 20 vintages of Dal Forno Amarone was not easy to arrange, such is the lack of availability.
It covers every single vintage ever produced, up to 2010. The latest release, the 2011, was tasted by Andrew Jefford separately and has been added to the list below for completeness.
Luckily, Dal Forno’s ex-importer in Germany came up trumps. Only the 2001 proved faulty but, rather ostentatiously, a magnum was on-hand to fill the gap.
The setting was the cosy confines of the Clove Club, where head chef Isaac McHale prepared a brilliant menu to match the wines, this time from magnums, in flights of three.
Dishes included morels stuffed with wood pigeon sausage, wild garlic purée & snails (highlighting the autumnal tones of the 2000 perfectly) to the dry-aged pork chop, blood pudding & red cabbage purée (a heavenly pairing for the rich meatiness of the 2003).
Evolution
Romano Dal Forno’s earliest vintages are really interesting, as you can almost envisage him dialling everything in as he learns. The 1988, his first Amarone vintage, was suprisingly evolved and relatively delicate, but displayed elegant acidity; a thread that runs through all of his wines.
1990, aided by superior vintage conditions, showed more texture, cleaner fruit and tons of complexity. This set a really high bar for the subsequent wines.
By the mid-to-late ’90s, the wines were putting on more weight and gaining deeper, meatier tones. A decade later, in 2004, we reached what I consider to be the modern Dal Forno style; breadth and power with extremely refined tannins.
All the wines from 1995 onwards were decanted.
Nature and nurture
Romano Dal Forno’s Amarone is sourced from a single vineyard in the Illasi Valley, called Monte Lodoletta, located at an altitude of around 300 metres on the flatter mid-slope, overlooked by the modern winery (completed at the end of 2007).
The gravelly soils with silt and clay are home to Corvina, Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina – but Molinara is dismissed for its lack of acidity, colour and tannin. Traditional viticultural methods are used, the antithesis to his approach in the winery.
The grapes are typically harvested from the end of September to the end of October. They are then manually sorted in the winery and placed in computer-controlled drying chambers for three months before pressing.
Fermentation is carried out in temperature controlled stainless steel vats, with pistons performing an automatic punch-down to extract colour and texture. The wine is then racked under vacuum to new barriques, and assemblage is carried out just before bottling, where the wine spends another 36 months.
20 vintages of Romano Dal Forno Amarone:
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Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1988
Dal Forno's first vintage of Amarone is, almost unbelievably, showing its age now. The raisined, mulchy, dried fruit aromas give way to a nutty, tarry...
1988
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1989
This is much more youthful on the nose than the '88, and has a fuller colour, with fragrant plum and dried hedgerow fruit aromas joined...
1989
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1990
1990 was an excellent year for Amarone. This is darker in colour than its predecessors, with delicate herbal aromatics leading towards black fruit and vanilla....
1990
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1991
The 1991 combines laser acidity with a latticework of strawberry, cranberry, currants, blackberry and liquorice flavours. The fine, integrated tannins help to emphasise its elegance...
1991
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1993
Uneven conditions during the vintage were followed by a dry winter with sufficient winds to ventilate the drying grapes. This has a slightly sweet vanilla...
1993
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1994
1994 was marked by heavy rains at the end of the summer, prompting this wine to deliver a herbaceous quality alongside black and red hedgerow...
1994
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1995
1995 was generally a great vintage for Amarone. When first poured, this offered up little more than a touch of volatile red apple aroma and...
1995
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1996
Tight, grippy red and black fruits are accompanied by spice and a hint of vanilla-infused wood. There is some plummy juiciness to the fruit on...
1996
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1997
This part of Italy suffered from the same poor weather as much of Europe in 1997, experiencing hailstorms in July. Despite this, it produced some...
1997
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1998
Fine, powdery tannins lead into a core of plummy dark fruits, with streaks of cassis, violet and liquorice. Elegant acids help to prolong the finish,...
1998
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1999
The first clear instance of the Dal Forno meatiness that is such a signature character of his Amarones. Grilled meats and red and black cherry...
1999
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2000
2000 produced small crops of excellent quality, and the drying period over the winter had ideal conditions for the appassimento process. This has a mulchy,...
2000
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2001
<p>A tricky vintage affected by crop-reducing hail, and rain during the harvest. This bottle was sadly faulty, however there was a magnum on hand which...
2001
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2002
Another tricky vintage affected by hail and rain during the growing season, but saved by a stretch of sunshine at the end of the summer....
2002
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2003
Dal Forno's practice of using older parcels of vines for his Amarone paid off in 2003, with the more established plants able to better withstand...
2003
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2004
A delayed flowering in 2004 was followed by a warm, sunny summer with cool nights, perfect for preserving the balance of sugars and acidity. There...
2004
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2006
With high levels of sugar and acid, the grapes in 2006 were ideal candidates for appassimento. This is just as rich as the monumental 2004,...
2006
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2008
This is a lighter, more elegant style from Dal Forno, reflecting the cooler vintage conditions in 2008. The juicy palate is balanced by a wonderful...
2008
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2009
A remarkable vintage, with an early spring and very warm summer, producing grapes with potential sugar levels second only to 2003. As you may expect,...
2009
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2010
2010 is a more considered vintage compared to the outright opulence of 2009, but it's no shrinking violet, especially in Dal Forno's hands. This has...
2010
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2011
The strongest wine in my selection, yet this magnificent Amarone’s alcohol is barely visible thanks to its astonishing depth, texture and sumptuousness. Pressed black fruits...
2011
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1988
Dal Forno's first vintage of Amarone is, almost unbelievably, showing its age now. The raisined, mulchy, dried fruit aromas give way to a nutty, tarry...
1988
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1989
This is much more youthful on the nose than the '88, and has a fuller colour, with fragrant plum and dried hedgerow fruit aromas joined...
1989
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1990
1990 was an excellent year for Amarone. This is darker in colour than its predecessors, with delicate herbal aromatics leading towards black fruit and vanilla....
1990
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1991
The 1991 combines laser acidity with a latticework of strawberry, cranberry, currants, blackberry and liquorice flavours. The fine, integrated tannins help to emphasise its elegance...
1991
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1993
Uneven conditions during the vintage were followed by a dry winter with sufficient winds to ventilate the drying grapes. This has a slightly sweet vanilla...
1993
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1994
1994 was marked by heavy rains at the end of the summer, prompting this wine to deliver a herbaceous quality alongside black and red hedgerow...
1994
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1995
1995 was generally a great vintage for Amarone. When first poured, this offered up little more than a touch of volatile red apple aroma and...
1995
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1996
Tight, grippy red and black fruits are accompanied by spice and a hint of vanilla-infused wood. There is some plummy juiciness to the fruit on...
1996
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1997
This part of Italy suffered from the same poor weather as much of Europe in 1997, experiencing hailstorms in July. Despite this, it produced some...
1997
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1998
Fine, powdery tannins lead into a core of plummy dark fruits, with streaks of cassis, violet and liquorice. Elegant acids help to prolong the finish,...
1998
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 1999
The first clear instance of the Dal Forno meatiness that is such a signature character of his Amarones. Grilled meats and red and black cherry...
1999
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2000
2000 produced small crops of excellent quality, and the drying period over the winter had ideal conditions for the appassimento process. This has a mulchy,...
2000
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2001
<p>A tricky vintage affected by crop-reducing hail, and rain during the harvest. This bottle was sadly faulty, however there was a magnum on hand which...
2001
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2002
Another tricky vintage affected by hail and rain during the growing season, but saved by a stretch of sunshine at the end of the summer....
2002
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2003
Dal Forno's practice of using older parcels of vines for his Amarone paid off in 2003, with the more established plants able to better withstand...
2003
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2004
A delayed flowering in 2004 was followed by a warm, sunny summer with cool nights, perfect for preserving the balance of sugars and acidity. There...
2004
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2006
With high levels of sugar and acid, the grapes in 2006 were ideal candidates for appassimento. This is just as rich as the monumental 2004,...
2006
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2008
This is a lighter, more elegant style from Dal Forno, reflecting the cooler vintage conditions in 2008. The juicy palate is balanced by a wonderful...
2008
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2009
A remarkable vintage, with an early spring and very warm summer, producing grapes with potential sugar levels second only to 2003. As you may expect,...
2009
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2010
2010 is a more considered vintage compared to the outright opulence of 2009, but it's no shrinking violet, especially in Dal Forno's hands. This has...
2010
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
Romano Dal Forno, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2011
The strongest wine in my selection, yet this magnificent Amarone’s alcohol is barely visible thanks to its astonishing depth, texture and sumptuousness. Pressed black fruits...
2011
Romano Dal FornoAmarone della Valpolicella
