South African Cabernet Sauvignon: 40 wines to buy

Great things are being achieved in the Cape with this most famous of Bordeaux varieties, with production techniques and styles evolving fast. Here, Christian Eedes recommends the 40 wines he scored highest when blind-tasting a line-up of 106 wines recently.

By Christian Eedes

published 4 August 2020

in Tastings

South African Cabernet Sauvignon — (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Cabernet Sauvignon is South Africa’s most widely planted red grape and third most-planted variety overall – 10,087ha were in the ground by the end of 2019, equivalent to 11% of the national vineyard. It has been around since the late part of the 19th century and traditionally made South Africa’s most prestigious reds. That said, one of the reasons it is so ubiquitous is because of how adaptable it is, retaining a recognisable character even when planted in less suitable locations.

It should also be noted that South Africa’s Cabernet Sauvignon plantings have decreased by 19.1% between 2009 and 2019; of the nation’s top 10 varieties, only Sauvignon Blanc and Pinotage are more widely distributed than they were a decade ago.

While Cabernet Sauvignon is frequently blended with other varieties (many producers employing the Bordeaux template to good effect), it can stand alone triumphantly. One of the variety’s greatest attributes is its ability to mature gracefully, and South Africa is no different in this regard – the GS 1966 by George Spies and Nederburg’s 1974 (Decanter April 2019 issue) are the stuff of legend.

Stellenbosch is the district most closely associated with high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon, and there are good reasons for this. Soils provide just the right amount of vigour in the vineyard canopy, while proximity to the ocean ensures moderate growing conditions: days that are not too hot and nights that are not too cold. Grape prices have climbed sharply here in recent times and there are several major new planting initiatives underway.

Right balance

Modern-era South African Cabernet Sauvignon has had a checkered history. There was a point in the mid-2000s when many wines appeared excessively green or herbaceous (leaf-roll virus, which stifles the vine’s production and ripening ability, was a major problem in this regard). In reaction to this, many winemakers gunned for fruit power at all costs, and the resulting wines then became overblown. Thankfully, there is now far more refinement to be had.

‘We’ve realised that “optimal ripeness” is not an absolute concept,’ says Christo Le Riche of Le Riche Wines. ‘We’re increasingly moving away from very big wines. Deciding when to pick is less about pleasing the critic and more about expressing the site and being true to a house style.’

Undoubtedly the best examples of South African Cabernet now display more purity of fruit and better tannin management than they have for a long time. It equates to greater precision in both vineyard and cellar: plant material has improved, grapes increasingly seem to be picked at optimum ripeness, the fermentation and macerations are less violent, and the use of oak is more judicious. By virtue of the South African sun, concentration is a given, but there’s now greater balance too.

The wines are certainly more accessible in their youth than their counterparts of yesteryear and it will be fascinating to see if they still have the inherent structure to age well. The jury is out on this last point.

Regarding recent vintages, 2016 seems to be the really duff one of recent times, the wines often prone to premature development. The good news is that, despite the drought that prevailed, both the 2015 and 2017 vintages are proving to be truly great, and collectors are advised not to miss out. The 2015s tend to be lush and weighty while the 2017s have clarity of fruit and verve.

Even the Cabernets from 2018 – a vintage that to date has gone somewhat unheralded by commentators – seem to be showing well. They perhaps don’t have quite the same concentration as the 2017s but make up for this in terms of elegance.

Christian Eedes’ top 40 South African Cabernet Sauvignon

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Right balance

Christian Eedes’ top 40 South African Cabernet Sauvignon

Stark-Conde, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Diemersdal, The Journal, Durbanville, Tygerberg, South Africa, 2018

Ernie Els, Major Series, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

La Bri, Limited Release, Franschhoek, South Africa, 2017

Boschendal, 1685, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Lanzerac, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Oldenburg Vineyards, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Joostenberg, Philip Albert, Paarl, South Africa, 2017

Bellevue, The Reserve Collection, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Le Riche, Reserve, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

David Finlayson, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Babylonstoren, Simonsberg, Paarl, South Africa, 2018

Reyneke, Reserve, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Peter Falke, Kailani, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Stark-Conde, Three Pines, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Restless River, Main Road & Dignity, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2016

Kanonkop, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2015

Glenelly, Glass Collection, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Tokara, Reserve Collection, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Vergelegen, Reserve, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2014

Kaapzicht, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Wellington Wines, La Cave, Wellington, South Africa, 2018

Stellenrust, Douwe Steyn, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2015

Muratie, Martin Melck Family Reserve, Simonsberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Rust en Vrede, Single Vineyard, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Strydom, Rex, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Thelema Mountain Vineyards, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Laibach, Simonsberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Neil Ellis, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Benguela Cove, Estate, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2018

Org de Rac, Reserve, Swartland, South Africa, 2018

Villion, Bot River, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2017

Le Riche, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Delaire Graff, Reserve, Banghoek, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Kleine Zalze, Vineyard Selection, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Le Bonheur, Reserve, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Rust en Vrede, Estate Vineyards, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

Usana, The Fox, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

Waterford Estate, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017