South American Riesling: Expert’s Choice

Plantings and production levels may yet be small, but Riesling has found a home in Chile, Argentina and Uruguay. Patricio Tapia recommends 12 of the best examples…

For most wine lovers there’s no natural association between Riesling and South America. For Riesling fans, the go-to places are Germany or Austria – or if they are forced to travel to the New World, perhaps Australia or New Zealand. South America can be the source of very good wines, but Riesling doesn’t generally spring to mind when thinking of this part of the world.

Scroll down for Patrico Tapia’s top South American Rieslings

This is perhaps to be expected. In total, there are barely more than 500ha of Riesling in Argentina, Chile and Uruguay combined. The variety is thought to have arrived in those areas towards the second half of the 19th century, together with the first imports of European vines. Pioneers were the Cousiño family, who brought some plants from Rheingau in Germany and planted them on their farm in Macul, just outside Santiago. Today, much of the Riesling planted in Chilean soil is directly descended from that material, while Cousiño- Macul continues to produce its classic Isidora, a Riesling that debuted half a century ago.Chile is the main producer of Riesling in South America, with 412ha planted. It is followed by Argentina with 88ha and Uruguay with 5ha. But in all of these countries, Riesling is far from being the most-planted white variety.In fact, it doesn’t even rank among the top 10 most important grapes in any of them. But while plantings are small, that does not mean the wines are bad.

Pushing the boundaries

As in all top Riesling-producing regions in the world, the most extreme sites produce the best results. One of those five Uruguayan hectares is planted at the foot of the Pan de Azúcar hill. Located just 3km from the Atlantic, and benefiting from fresh sea breezes, its owners – the Bouza family – produce a charming and refreshing white. Crossing the Río de la Plata to Argentina, Trapiche has ventured towards the coasts of Mar del Plata, more than 400km south of Buenos Aires, to obtain the first marine wines of Argentina – including a Riesling. Taking advantage of the proximity of the sea, Costa & Pampa Riesling is radiant in its freshness and floral notes.

In Chile, the most extreme examples of Riesling are found very close to the cold Pacific, such as Casa Marín, on the calcareous slopes of Lo Abarca in the San Antonio Valley. Or very high up in Chile’s mountains, like the Sierras de Bellavista micro-project in the highest area of the Colchagua Valley. While in the south, Casa Silva’s latest boutique venture is located at the foot of volcanoes next to lake Ranco – a completely new area for Chilean viticulture.

Each of these examples shows the best of Riesling in South America, but they also happen to be some of the newest and riskiest areas in which vines have ever been planted by South American viticulturists. Riesling seems to be a good companion for adventures.

See Patrico Tapia’s top South American Rieslings

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