Southern Oregon: regional profile and the wines to try

Oregon’s stellar wine reputation was built on Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and more recently Chardonnay. Yet the wines coming from Southern Oregon are equally as exciting yet far more diverse.

Scroll down for Stacy Slinkard’s tasting notes of 10 Southern Oregon wines

Southern Oregon, the state’s oldest wine-growing region, began life in the mid-1800s with European settlers planting the first vines. Extending 200km south of Eugene to the California border, the Southern Oregon AVA anchors the southwest corner of the state.

It was originally established as a ‘super AVA’ to allow the Rogue and Umpqua Valleys to market themselves together. Today there is a concerted drive to showcase each of these valleys under appellation-specific labels. Defying easy definition, the varied microclimates and distinct topography within each AVA offer dramatically different grape-growing conditions.

Understanding Umpqua Valley

The Umpqua Valley AVA is named for the river that traverses the region. Spanning 105km from north to south and 40km at its widest point, it carries runs of salmon and steelhead trout. With the Willamette Valley to the north, the Rogue Valley south, the Pacific Ocean and Coast Range to the west and Cascades in the east, this well-situated AVA is surrounded by remarkable variation in microclimates, geography and soil structures.

The undulating topography is built on a series of mountains and valleys. It has been dubbed the Hundreds of Valleys of the Umpqua, with vines planted in lowlands to more than 300m. Soil structures are exceptionally diverse given the volcanic soils, riverbeds and oceanic influence. More than 150 different types have been tapped, thanks to a heavy mix of metamorphic, sedimentary and volcanic rock. As a result, vineyards showcase a collection of silty loam, clay, cobblestone and alluvial deposits.

Like the landscape, the grape varieties are also diverse. With the cooler marine-influenced sub-AVA of Elkton and warmer growing zones near the city of Roseburg, the Umpqua Valley is uniquely equipped to grow both cool-climate grapes like Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer and Riesling as well as warm-weather varieties such as Tempranillo, Syrah and Merlot.

A handful of producers including Paul O’Brien – an urban winery in Roseburg – are bottling exceptional Rhône-inspired GSM blends. However Sue Brandborg, of Brandborg Winery in Elkton, says: ‘The Umpqua Valley is still Pinot Noir country.’ The grape accounts for more than 60% of vines planted.

American pioneers

Umpqua Valley’s first vineyards were planted by German immigrants in the 1880s. Though it wasn’t until 1961 that Richard Sommer – considered by many to be the father of Oregon wine – planted vines near Roseburg and established HillCrest Vineyards, the state’s oldest continuously run winery. The Umpqua Valley AVA was officially recognised in 1984. Today there are more than 30 registered wineries and over 40 different grape varieties grown.

Steve Reustle, owner and winemaker of Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards, was the first in the US to bottle Grüner Veltliner. Fifteen years on from that inaugural 2005 vintage, he continues to make outstanding Grüners in two distinct styles. There’s the crisp, clean lines of the Green Lizard label, made in traditional stainless-steel tanks, as well as the Dolium label: a concentrated Grüner with great richness and body thanks to microoxygenation in his 570-litre Dolium concrete egg (painted like a happy Humpty Dumpty).

Another of the valley’s modern-day pioneers is dermatologist-turned-viticulturist Earl Jones of Abacela Winery. He was the first in America to grow and produce wine from Tempranillo. ‘The key to growing Tempranillo is the bookends of spring frost and fall frost,’ he explains. ‘It’s the time between the frost dates that determines whether Tempranillo will finish ripening.’

Demanding an average of about six months’ ripening, southern Umpqua Valley Tempranillo thrives in the hot days and cool evenings here, which often deliver more than a 20°C diurnal temperature shift.

Heading south to Rogue Valley

The Rogue Valley AVA was established in 1991, though the first-known vine plantings – of Mission grapes from California – are credited to Swiss settler Peter Britt in the 1850s.

These were followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This heritage of remarkable grape variety continues to this day in the Rogue Valley.

Covering more than 400,000ha, stretching 115km wide and 100km long from the city of Grant’s Pass to California’s northern border, Rogue Valley is Oregon’s southernmost AVA.

It has a continental climate and is built on four key growing areas: the Rogue Valley, Illinois Valley, Bear Creek Valley and Applegate Valley (cleverly named after the Rogue River and its tributaries). The Applegate Valley, the only official sub-AVA within the Rogue Valley, is home to the region’s higher-elevation vineyards (averaging 400m) thanks to the nearby Siskiyou Mountains.

‘There is still a sense of discovery and experimentation here in the Rogue Valley,’ says Gina Bianco, executive director of Rogue Valley Vintners. This is evidenced by more than 50 different grape varieties planted in over 200 vineyards, covering about 2,350ha under vine. Up to 70% are red varieties, with Pinot Noir comprising 30% of plantings, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Tempranillo and Riesling.

Syrah: a bold ambassador

Currently, there are about 80 bonded wineries, with more expected. The Rogue Valley contributes just over 10% to the Oregon crush annually. Many grapes stay local for regional wines, but plenty of fruit – mainly Syrah and Pinot Noir – heads north to contribute the 5% to Willamette Valley AVA bottlings.

Herb Quady, winemaker and owner of Quady North, says the significant temperature differences between Rogue Valley’s crisp nights and warm days helps to fix acidity in the best grapes. Purity of fruit and elegant textures are common themes in Quady North’s wines. From the bright apricot influences and rich layers of Pistoleta, the white Rhône blend, to the concentrated but balanced single-vineyard Syrahs, there’s a synergy, finesse and transparency that unfolds in the glass.

‘Syrah had a false start in the Rogue Valley,’ admits Quady. ‘It was initially touted as the next big grape, but it was planted in the wrong place. Now it’s in the right place at the right time.’ Today Syrah is an energetic champion for the consistent quality coming out of Rogue Valley.

Southern Oregon: authentic and exciting

The creative winemaking community of Southern Oregon’s two key valley AVAs, plus their varied microclimates, complex soils and large diurnal temperature swings, have given rise to incredibly diverse grape varieties.

It’s a different side to Oregon than the Willamette Valley. And while the wines may not be as well known or widely available, they are authentic, exciting and worth exploring.

Southern Oregon at a glance

Southern Oregon AVA Oregon’s second-largest wine-growing region

Area under vine 3,740ha

AVAs Southern Oregon, Umpqua Valley, Elkton, Red Hill Douglas County, Rogue Valley, Applegate Valley

Key grape varieties Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Viognier, Chardonnay, Tempranillo

Climate One of the widest diurnal shifts in the world – up to 22°C.

Soils River systems and major mountain ranges result in marine and stream sedimentary rock, alluvial, clay loam and volcanic soils.

Southern Oregon: 10 exciting wines to try

Related content

Columbia Gorge for wine lovers

Oregon Chardonnay: top producers to know and wines to try

Oregon Pinot Noir: top producers to know and wines to try

Christophe Baron: from Cayuse back to Champagne