St-Estèphe 2017: Top wines re-tasted after bottling
Classified estates in this part of Bordeaux largely escaped the frost and you'll find well-built, carefully constructed wines here from the 2017 vintage, says Jane Anson.
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Yields in the St-Estèphe 2017 vintage were almost identical to those of 2016; the entire appellation escaped the frosts in the early part of the growing season, mainly due to the proximity of the Garonne river.
The year was also one of the earliest on record up in this corner of the Médoc, mainly due to an early bud-burst around 26 March – the same one that made buds elsewhere so vulnerable to cold weather. Excellent conditions in June also allowed for even flowering and kick-started ripening.
Veraison was 10 days earlier than in 2016, making producers a little better prepared to withstand the September rains than those areas where frost had delayed growth.
Some of my most consistent re-scores were in fact up here – bearing in mind I was re-tasting the classified wines – and it’s definitely an area I would recommend looking in the 2017 vintage.
There is still austerity and a cool character in the fruit, and the alcohols are in general far lower than you will find in the St-Estèphe 2018 wines, but these are well-built, carefully constructed wines with lots to enjoy.
Look out for: Château Montrose
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See Jane Anson’s top St-Estèphe 2017 wines re-tasted in bottle
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Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
