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The insiders’ guide to Tuscany – the ultimate wineries to visit, wines to try and final tips
From wineries to visit, new wines to try, stocking up on olive oil and visiting a marble quarry, let our experts help you get around Tuscany like a local, avoid the tourist traps and enjoy the best the region has to offer.
Italy editor James Button rounded up a crack team of Decanter‘s regular expert Italian contributors, got them to open their address books and share their pearls of wisdom about that most renowned of Italian regions – Tuscany.
Following on from parts one and two, in part three they share their must-visit wineries, must-try wines and any last must-do activities and final tips to really set the seal on your visit.
See below for our experts’ insider tips on travelling and sight-seeing in Tuscany
Wineries to visit?
San Donatino
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)
Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW says… ‘One of the leading wineries responsible for the resurgence of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Panizzi pioneered the Riserva style in the early 1990s. The winery is in the charming village of Larniano, away from the tourists that crowd San Gimignano. Being able to experience single-vineyard Vernaccia, as well as an orange wine and older vintages, is an awakening experience.’
Sarah Lane says… ‘A visit to Il Borro is memorable. The winery is within a medieval stone village that has been brought back to life by the Ferragamo family (also with accommodation and dining). In addition to a tour and tasting of the varied range of enjoyable wines, you’ll see the owner’s private collection of wine-themed works, including many by world-famous artists.’
Richard Baudains says… ‘Located in San Casciano, Corzano e Paterno makes sincere, unassuming but beautiful wines from a fringe area of Chianti. It’s also a producer of cheeses supplied to some of Italy’s top restaurants.’
Emily O’Hare says… ‘At San Donatino in Castellina in Chianti, you simply drive down, take a seat on their terrace and then work your way through the wide range of wines via their Enomatic machine, with kind staff on hand to help. It’s a beautiful place to sit, peaceful and relaxed, and the wines have character, authenticity and purity.’
Cristina Mercuri says… ‘A meticulously restored 12th-century castle, Castello di Vicarello in Poggi del Sasso offers an exclusive retreat in the Maremma. Surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, the estate blends rustic charm with understated elegance. It’s also a boutique hotel with stunning suites and unique amenities, including a wine-barrel hot tub. Guests can enjoy panoramic infinity pools, yoga, truffle hunting, spa treatments and cooking lessons.’
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Filippo Magnani says… ‘Sesti in Montalcino was founded by Venetian astronomer Giuseppe Maria Sesti and wife Sarah (from Shropshire in the UK) in 1972, following their purchase of the dilapidated 13th-century Castello di Argiano. The estate today consists of 102ha of land, of which 13ha are planted with vines, mainly Sangiovese. By appointment only, their charming daughter Elisa Sesti will lead you first into the minuscule ageing cellar, then up into the medieval tower, with its outstanding view of the Val d’Orcia. End the tour in the estate’s own chapel, sipping charming Brunellos. I strongly recommend trying the elegant, pure Riserva Brunello Phenomena, only 3,500 bottles of which are made – a truly cosmic experience.’ (Also recommended by Michaela Morris)
Raffaele Mosca says… ‘Antinori’s Le Mortelle winery in Maremma boasts stunning contemporary architecture and an enchanting setting among vineyards looking towards the coast at Castiglione della Pescaia.’
Åsa Johansson recommends: ‘L’Erta Trebbiano by Paolo and Lorenzo Marchionni. It’s a revelation, proving just how expressive and elegant one of Italy’s most underrated grape varieties can be.’
Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW recommends: ‘Fontodi, Flaccianello della Pieve 2007, although any vintage would do!’
Gabriele Gorelli MW recommends: ‘Petrolo’s Bòggina B Trebbiano white and Monteverro’s Tinata red.’
Raffaele Mosca recommends: ‘Ventisei 2020 by Il Rio is Tuscany’s finest Pinot Nero, shining a light on the little-known Mugello region in the foothills of the Apennines and blending Tuscan tannic firmness with the variety’s signature aromatic finesse.’
Sarah Lane recommends: ‘Gianni Moscardini, Sileno Ciliegiolo (pictured above). I was fortunate enough to try the deliciously fruit-driven 2021 vintage earlier this year, made by vineyard consultant Gianni Moscardini at his family estate in the northern Maremma area of Tuscany.’
Richard Baudains recommends: ‘Capezzana, Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva 2016. No apologies for suggesting a sweet wine. Rare and exquisite.’
Michaela Morris says… ‘It’s impossible to choose just one. Instead, I would encourage people to explore wines from denominations they might not have heard of, and from producers they don’t know. Ever had a wine from Elba, or tried a Ciliegiolo? This is a golden opportunity.’
Any other top tips to get the most out of a visit to Tuscany?
Tenuta Podernovo
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)
Cristina Mercuri says… ‘I highly recommend visiting emerging wine areas such as Terre di Pisa and booking a visit to Tenute Lunelli’s Tenuta Podernovo estate.’
Filippo Magnani says… ‘You need to experience an off-roading tour of Carrara’s white marble quarries in the Apuan Alps, in the northwest of Tuscany. Discover the beauty of the “white gold” marble, as used by Michelangelo. Surrounded by the quarries, the ancient mining village of Colonnata gives its name to the precious Lardo di Colonnata IGP, a white lard made from Italian pigs, flavoured with local spices and cured in marble basins. Remember that at the foot of the Apuan Alps stretch the wine areas of the Candia dei Colli Apuani and Colli di Luni, home to some exquisite Vermentinos.’
Åsa Johansson says… ‘Take fewer pictures for Instagram and talk more to locals – and please don’t ask for a takeaway coffee in a busy Italian bar. Drink your coffee at the counter. When in Italy, do as the Italians do…!’
Michaela Morris says… ‘Soak up as much of the region’s olive oil as possible. It’s liquid gold.’
Raffaele Mosca says… ‘Most winegrowing areas are also filled with architectural gems. The Sant’Antimo medieval abbey in the commune of Montalcino and the Artimino Medici villa in Carmignano are just two examples of must-visit monuments lying within close reach of iconic wineries.’
Emily O’Hare says… ‘Look out for posters advertising traditional food festivals, known as sagre, organised by the local community. You will be seated at long tables with the locals and enjoy the specialties of that town for a super economical price.’
Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘A great companion for a trip to Tuscany is the recently published On Tuscany: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Wine Tales From the Heart of Italy from Académie du Vin Library (£35, October 2024), a selection of essays brilliantly compiled by Susan Keevil.’
