Top Côte Chalonnaise 2020 en primeur wines

The domaine produces this inky, dark, super-ripe villages Mercurey from rented south-facing parcels not far from the premier cru zone in clay soils with high iron content. There is a short week of maceration before the fermentation, with a large proportion of whole clusters before ageing in large casks. The result has a rich cassis fruit, with a bit of spice and a firm, tannic texture with impressive balance and length.

This wine is produced from four parcels that total 3ha on the east-facing slopes of this premier cru. After a brief cold soak, the wine is fermented using native yeasts with a high proportion of whole clusters. The fermenting wine is punched down fairly vigorously before ageing in cask for 15 months (25% new). Despite the vigorous extraction, the wine is notably silky and generous; the red and black berry fruit has a pleasant mineral cast, and the wine is notable for its freshness. Tannins are well managed, but firm at the end.

This monopole is spread over three distinct parcels in the stony, iron-bearing clay at mid-slope, facing south. The vines average 55 years of age and, in 2020, produced a wine with lovely cassis fruit and an edge of mint on the nose. Initially quite approachable, with time the body and tannins make themselves known, and one sees the depth of which this wine is capable.

This monopole is a single lieu-dit of 1.39ha located at the foot of the slope called l'Hermitage. The richness of the site produces a lovely, deep plummy fruit with savoury and mineral notes, and a pleasant floral edge. There is good depth of flavour and density on the palate, with a tannic line that leads to a pleasantly lingering finish.

Displays a slightly savoury 'sauvage' edge, a pleasant raspberry and rose petal fruit, and enrobed tannins that are silky but firm. This 2ha monopole is at the top of the premier cru band with south-facing slopes and red marly soils. The fruit is destemmed and sees a maceration before fermenting in open-top wooden fermenters, pumped over at first, then punched down. Ageing is 24–30 months in large upright casks.

The domaine has nearly a half-hectare here planted in clay soils at mid-slope, exposed directly south. After a cold soak and fairly aggressive extraction, the wine is aged in cask (30% new) for 15 months. There are pronounced aromas of dark plum with an earthy vein and hints of leather and spice. The texture is tannic and very firm, with lots of concentration. This should open well, but it needs some time.

Produced from three parcels that total 2ha at the northern edge of the premier cru band, exposed to the east and south. Fermented with 10% whole clusters that receive a cold soak, then a fermentation of two weeks with punching down prior to ageing in cask (25% new). The result has a bright, concentrated raspberry fruit and tannins that are silky but pleasantly firm.

In 2020, the picking started on August 18th, and the fruit was destemmed, gently fermented, and aged in large upright oak casks to provide a wine with plenty of cherry-scented fruit, nice concentration and firm, if slightly rustic tannins on the palate. This large mid-slope premier cru faces east between the Clos Salomon and the Clos du Cellier aux Moines. Baron Thénard is the largest proprietor here, with two parcels totaling 7.66ha.

From a 1.52ha vineyard near the village facing east and south. The wine ferments for two weeks with a modest inclusion of whole clusters prior to ageing in cask (20% new). The result has a bright pomegranate and red cherry fruit, with a menthol edge on the nose. There is a hint of reduction on the nose and lighter body on the palate than the other premiers crus, with bright acidity and a moderate finish. Approachable soon.

A wine possessing lush blackberry fruit with an edge of dark chocolate and spice, supple tannins and a balanced elegance on the palate. Lovely. This village-level Givry is produced from fruit from the Chanevarie lieu-dit at the base of Servoisine. The grapes were picked on the 21st of August, with punching down as the wine fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (20% new).

At present the wine is still an inky purple colour, with a profuse aroma of cassis and a subtle brambly edge that is slightly rustic but not lacking in charm. Tannins are firm and the wine is a bit closed on the palate but should open with time. This comes from a domain-owned, old vine parcel of 0.67ha exposed to the southeast at mid slope. The fruit is fermented on native yeasts after a cold soak with some whole-cluster, and punched down regularly to ensure extraction.

The grapes are fermented in open-top fermenters and given a short élevage in cask to produce this light, elegant wine with a bright, forward pomegranate and raspberry fruit, fresh acidity, and a lively, clean texture on the palate. Ideal for drinking young on the fruit. Mortières is a vineyard of nearly 1.5ha at the base of the slope. The vines are relatively flat and the soil fairly thin.

To the north of Bois Chevaux, Baron Thénard has 1.5ha planted to Pinot and 1.6ha planted to Chardonnay. The slopes for the Pinot face due south and produce a wine that has a spicy, peppery black plum fruit, with a texture on the palate that has grip and tension but is perhaps a bit more rustic than some of the other offerings.