Top Meursault 2021 en primeur wines
Charles Curtis MW highlights where to look for the best 2021 wines from Meursault.
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Best producers:
- Domaine du Comte Lafon
- Domaine Henri Boillot
- Maison Benjamin Leroux
- Domaine Génot-Boulanger
- Domaine de Montille
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for Charles’ top-scoring Meursault 2021 wines
Capricious weather was the leitmotif of discussions with winemakers in Meursault.
One-third of an average crop was the very discouraging estimate of the damage from more than one producer, including Comte Lafon and Henri Boillot.
Certain vignerons, such as Génot-Boulanger and Benjamin Leroux, mentioned even higher figures, with up to 80% of the crop. Typically, this was most severely felt at mid-slope and below since the vines at the highest elevations bud out later and were not as severely damaged by frost.
Mildew and rot were another danger. Génot-Boulanger, among others, said they settled the must longer than usual to remove potential impurities. Fermenting with fewer lees is not problematic, but it means that it is harder to obtain that smoky ‘reductive’ edge that is so fashionable today.
Brian Sieve at Domaine de Montille had an interesting perspective on the vintage: ‘We treated twice as much yet lost 60% in aggregate. The final numbers were down 50% because the regional [Bourgogne] appellations hadn’t pushed yet. We did all the same work knowing there wouldn’t be a real benefit from a second crop, yet I can’t complain too much since we have a good crew that works well, and we did what we had to do to make qualitative ferments. 2013 was the last time we had a similar vintage.’
The style of the best wines is true to the classic template: ripe apples, hazelnut, and butter, with a texture that is plump and generous and a lingering feature. As with other regions, achieving this ideal required a willingness to make a severe selection and watch the ferments very closely.
Still, top producers delivered thrilling wines with vibrant acidity and enough substance to stay the course.
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See the score table listing Charles’ top Burgundy 2021 wines all scoring 94 points or above
See all 700 Burgundy 2021 tasting notes and scores
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See further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:
Morey-St-Denis | Chambolle-Musigny | Gevrey-Chambertin | Pommard and Volnay | Vosne-Romanée
See tasting notes and scores for Charles Curtis MW’s top-scoring Meursault 2021 wines:
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