Vintages to drink this Christmas
Wondering if those dusty bottles in your rack are ready to open? Eight of our regional experts recommend three vintages each that will give maximum drinking pleasure this season.
We suggest the best vintages for:
- Champagne
- White Burgundy
- Red Burgundy
- Red Bordeaux
- Red Rhône
- Red Rioja
- Red Tuscany
- Red Piedmont
- Napa Cabernet
- Sweet Tokaj
- Sweet Sauternes
Champagne
Simon Field MW
2012 – 4.5 stars
A decade on, and earning more and more praise, 2012 is a Pinot-strong vintage which combines structure and charm, therefore the possibility to age and the possibility to drink now… who could ask for more!
2008 – 5 stars
Cooler than 2002, a celebrated vintage which has yielded pure, crystalline Champagnes with tension and freshness, power and vigour – a bit of everything, in other words. This is well worth a preliminary look now.
2002 – 5 stars
A ripe and generous year with sugar and acidity both high and working so well together down the years. Perfectly à point now.
Burgundy white
Charles Curtis MW
2019 – 4 stars
Although the season was hot and dry, a difficult flowering reduced yields and concentrated the grapes. Despite shutting down mid-season due to drought stress, the grapes finished their ripening with surprising freshness to balance the ripe, lush flavours. Drink the regional appellations and lesser village wines now to enjoy their hedonistic pleasures.
2014 – 5 stars
A ‘classic’ year (read: often cool and damp), this vintage produced wines with structure and nerve. With yields reduced by hail, however, the sunny, dry conditions in September ripened grapes to perfection. The thick-skinned Chardonnay excelled over the more delicate Pinot Noir.
2007 – 4 stars
A cool, damp year, 2007 was somewhat problematic due to rot and mildew, but producers who sorted carefully produced some glorious white wines with complex, exotic aromas, vibrant acidity and the substance for long ageing. Grand cru wines from this year should be drinking at their peak now.
Burgundy red
Charles Curtis MW
2017 – 4 stars
A ripe year providing a copious harvest. Growers who avoided high yields produced ripe, lush wines that are starting to open now. Enjoy the regional and lesser village appellations on their fruit.
2010 – 4.5stars
Frost and poor flowering reduced yields, and cool weather in July and August meant lots of fresh acidity, but then a warm, sunny September ripened the small crop to perfection to deliver racy wines with pure fruit and ample concentration. The premier cru wines should be opening well now.
2005 – 5 stars
Sunny, mild and warm throughout the growing season, without excessive drought, providing textbook conditions. The 2005 wines, however, were tannic and slow to open. Today the grands crus are starting to show their potential and the premiers crus are at their peak.
Bordeaux red
Georgie Hindle
2014 – 4 stars
The best vintage since 2010 in the region, producing a host of excellent wines, particularly from the northern Médoc triumvirate of St-Julien, Pauillac and St-Estèphe. Super-seconds also did well. But more generally there should be some good value picks here.
2012 – 3.5 stars
It’s not a blockbuster vintage, but ‘in between’ years can offer charm and pleasure over power, and that’s what these 2012s do. Less concentrated than some bigger years, these wines are ready to drink and at their best right now, so crack them open and enjoy.
2001 – 4.5 stars
The ultimate insider’s vintage following 2000, which was initially more acclaimed but has since allowed the 2001s to shine, given that they are currently showing pure elegance alongside lovely drinkability and freshness.
Rhône red
Matt Walls
2014 – 3.5 stars
A cool, wet summer produced a crop of delicate reds in both the north and the south – but if you’re having mushrooms, chicken or turkey for Christmas lunch, these are versatile wines that shouldn’t overpower the food.
2012 – 4.5 stars
A bright, juicy and approachable vintage in the northern and southern Rhône. These are starting to take on some complexity and interest now, while retaining fruit and freshness. All but the most robust red Hermitage should be ready for business.
2001 – 4.5 stars
A hot, dry and windy season made for concentrated reds. They were tannic to start with, but have softened now and are ready to drink. A year of long-lived red wines across the Rhône valley.
Rioja red
Sarah Jane Evans MW
2010 – 5 stars
A year when everything came together for Rioja, with no extremes. The best wines are the essence of balance, and they continue to mature evenly and steadily.
2004 – 4.5 stars
From the outset it has been hard to choose between 2004 and 2005. You won’t go wrong with either. However, in my recent experience, 2004 has the edge in terms of intensity, and lovely development. The 2005s are very fine, but just a little less generous.
2001 – 5 stars
The ideal Christmas vintage if you have it in the cellar. It was a great vintage at the time, and the best wines remain so. Gloriously supple, refined, elegant wines.
Tuscany red
Michaela Morris
2015 – 4.5 stars
Capturing the generous, sunny warmth of the year, the 2015s are mouthfilling, plump and supple. While they have the stuffing to keep ageing for a while yet, wines from throughout the region are accessible and affable now.
2013 – 4 stars
This overall cool year slightly favoured Sangiovese and gave midweight, fragrant yet firm wines. Brunello di Montalcino is just entering a lovely expressive drinking window, Bolgheri demonstrates freshness, and it is a good time to open Chianti Classico.
2004 – 5 stars
An outstanding vintage, from the Tuscan coast to the hills inland. Balanced weather conditions produced balanced wines. It is worth checking in on 2004 now as powerful, structured wines have relaxed their tannic grip but there is still plenty of fruit to carry them.
Piedmont red
Michaela Morris
2014 – 3.5 stars
Chilly and unrelenting wet conditions marked 2014, with hail beleaguering Barolo, however Barbaresco fared better and its wines are showing delightfully now – graceful and pure. Carefully selected Barolo are also worthwhile, sporting a similar fine-boned frame.
2011 – 4 stars
A very warm summer led to an early harvest, though cool nights helped to preserve Nebbiolo’s aromas. Charismatic and friendly, both Barolo and Barbaresco are showing ripe but not jammy fruit with chewy tannins. This is an excellent year for Barbera.
2008 – 4.5 stars
This classic vintage was not highly touted at first but has gained appreciation as the wines age. The summer was challenging but the cool, sunny autumn made for intense and
complex Barolo and Barbaresco – now captivating in tertiary nuances, though still resolutely structured.
Napa Cabernet
Jonathan Cristaldi
2015 – 4 stars
A challenging year, plagued by early cold weather that reduced yields. But seven years on, the characteristically fresh, red-fruited Cabernets are beginning to darken in profile and offer tremendous drinking pleasure.
2007 – 5 stars
Considered a classic, textbook vintage for Napa. Temperatures remained consistent throughout harvest, and the racy, complex reds with their sweet tannins are shining right now. Drink with abandon.
2002 – 4.5 stars
With 20 years of bottle age, the beautifully rich, concentrated Cabernets of this warm vintage offer the perfect mix of fading primary fruits and gorgeous tobacco and earth notes.
Sweet Tokaj
Caroline Gilby MW
2013 – 5 stars
A glorious vintage across all Tokaji styles, with beautifully rich berries, lovely concentration and fine acids giving luscious but elegant wines. Drinking now but with long life ahead.
2007 – 5 stars
A warm summer then rain at harvest brought widespread and intense botrytis on ripe grapes giving wonderful creamy texture. Expect layers of dried apricot, mango and spice, luscious to taste and balanced by silky acidity.
2002 – 4 stars
Not universally the best year, but for those that made top Aszú there are some glorious, sumptuous and complex wines that are drinking beautifully now. Early botrytis on ripe grapes with high acidity meant very quick concentration, with wines showing Tokaji’s classic sweet-but-vibrant balance.
Sweet Sauternes
Georgie Hindle
2017 – 4 stars
A generally low-yielding crop with frosts affecting estates in Barsac, though sparing much of Sauternes. Despite being a rich, heady vintage, these wines are thrilling in their youth and perfect to surprise guests with, instead of more common aperitifs.
2009 – 5 stars
A fast onset of botrytis led to a quick harvest with high sugars, record alcohols – and yields – but also excellent acidity producing sumptuous wines that rank among the best ever. For the ultimate in enjoyment this year.
2007 – 4 stars
A long and complex harvest with yields that were well below average, though it is the only region in Bordeaux to have made indisputably great wines in 2007. Richness and purity with balance and freshness, and a gorgeous aromatic profile.
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