Walls: Gigondas 2013 and 2014 – time to drink up?
Matt Walls revisits the 2013 and 2014 vintages in Gigondas, offering his expert advice on whether to start opening these bottles up or hold on a little longer.
I clearly remember the summer of 2014 in the Rhône. We were there on holiday, staying not far from the hill of Hermitage. It rained incessantly, I got tonsillitis and we had to rush our two-year-old son to hospital with a severed thumb.
It wasn’t the best holiday we’ve ever had.
That wet summer of 2014 also made an indelible impression on the wines. The 2013 vintage wasn’t without its challenges either – it was certainly unlucky for some.
Positioned between the excellent 2012 and 2015, the 2013s and 2014s have been somewhat disregarded. Now they’re approaching maturity, it was time for a reappraisal.
I was recently in Gigondas to celebrate the 50th anniversary of this appellation’s promotion to cru status. While I was there I tasted around 40 wines – where possible the same cuvée from both 2013 and 2014 – to get a better grasp of how they’re showing today. Stylistically they couldn’t be more different.
Got Gigondas 2013 and 2014 in your cellar? Scroll down for Matt Wall’s tasting notes and scores to see how they’re drinking now
The 2013 growing season
‘It was an atypical year,’ says Christophe Galon of Domaine Les Semelles de Vent. Grenache vines across the whole of the southern Rhône were hit by serious coulure (the failure of grape bunches to develop properly). This is usually caused by cold, wet weather during flowering; it doesn’t affect the quality of the fruit per se, just the yields.
As a result, wines from 2013 tend to contain higher proportions of other grapes in the blend than a typical year, mostly Syrah and Mourvèdre.
‘In our Gigondas, the proportion of Syrah was around 50% instead of the usual 30%,’ says Galon. This is one reason why the wines are relatively dark and structured. The other reason is the lateness of the harvest: the season started three weeks later than average due to the cold, wet spring.
‘2013 is a year that demanded patience,’ says Pierre Amadieu, ‘it was exceptionally late, the latest in 30 years.’ It made for wines with pronounced tannic frames and strong acidities.
Amadieu recalls that a few months after bottling, he found that ‘the tannins of the 2013, very present following the coulure with the Grenache, gave this vintage an austere side with a hint of harshness in the months that followed.’
The 2014 growing season
Conditions were very different in 2014. Unlike 2013, it got off to an early start, but was then hampered by a cool, wet July that brought problems with rot. August was better, but the rains returned in September while many were harvesting.
Plentiful fruit and wet conditions led to generous yields. Josiane Faraud of Mas des Restanques recorded 36hl/ha in 2014 compared to just 25hl/ha in 2013. Amadieu says that a green harvest (the removal of extra bunches before they’re ripe in order to promote ripening in the remaining bunches) and leaf thinning (the removal of vine leaves to expose grape bunches to sunlight and air flow) were necessary to aid ripening.
The result was wines that were lighter in colour and structure compared to the 2013s, and readier sooner. ‘The 2014 vintage was less dense due to rainy weather before harvest,’ says Amadieu, ‘and it quickly developed aromas of undergrowth and incense, and a fine tannic structure.
Contrasting styles
At the tasting, the most immediate difference between the two vintages was visible in their colours; the 2013s are much darker in the glass. This is due to two factors: the proportions of Syrah in the blend, and the lower yields. The 2013s are much more tannic too, for the same reasons.
When the 2014s were released, the reaction was largely lukewarm. Some winemakers and commentators proclaimed it to be a weak vintage, but that now appears unfair – in Gigondas at least it’s classic and well balanced. The wines are red-fruited and spicy, with freshness and clarity.
When it comes to quality, the highs are higher in 2013, but the style isn’t always easy to love – it can feel a little gruff. But the wines often have more length and depth than the 2014s, which can appear a little lightweight by comparison. Thanks to their finesse, however, the 2014s will be more versatile with food – if you’re opening the 2013s now, choose strongly flavoured dishes that can cope with powerful tannins.
On release, the respective shortcomings of these two vintages were clear. But it pays to wait until the wines are ready to drink before making any definitive judgement.
Gigondas 2013 and 2014 – drink or keep?
At least half the 2013s I tasted would benefit from another year or two in bottle, and those that are ready are only beginning to open up.
By contrast, the 2014s were almost all ready to drink. They are in a good place now, and most will continue to drink well for the next few years, but this isn’t a vintage for long ageing. If you have any in storage, now is the time to bring them out.
There are some delicious wines in 2013 and 2014, but it’s useful to know their differing styles, drinking windows and food matches. What this tasting proved is that it’s overly simplistic to describe a vintage simply as ‘better’ or ‘worse’. Unlike my summer holidays.
See Matt Wall’s tasting notes and scores for a selection of Gigondas 2013 and 2014 wines:
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Moulin de la Gardette, Ventabren, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Gorgeous smoky thyme aromatics curl from the glass. Medium- to full-bodied, rounded and generous. The tannins are quite robust, but sweetly ripe and coated with...
2013
Moulin de la GardetteGigondas
Mas des Restanques, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Sage, thyme and rosemary with a little lavender in the background. Well balanced, with powerful but not over-extracted tannins. The acidity isn't high, but neither...
2013
Mas des RestanquesGigondas
Bergerie de la Plane, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Rose and violet notes over scents of polished antique wood. Soft raspberry and strawberry fruit, this is juicy and yielding. Very much open and ready...
2013
Bergerie de la PlaneGigondas
Domaine du Grapillon d'Or, Excellence, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Lovely sense of freshness, with a lifted bergamot and violet note. Sweet strawberry and raspberry fruit on the palate, with fairly robust tannins, it’s quite...
2013
Domaine du Grapillon d'OrGigondas
Domaine Les Semelles De Vent, Clos du Garde, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Beautiful wild thyme explodes from the glass, with black pepper notes. Full-bodied, ripe, generous, well rounded and complete. Powerful, with fairly high alcohol, but not...
2014
Domaine Les Semelles De VentGigondas
Domaine Montirius, Confidentiel, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
94
Plenty of spice and floral notes over a blackberry and raspberry core. Full-bodied, with a firm tannic base. Plenty of structure, with bold, muscular tannins. Opening up, but needs more time - will be excellent when it's ready.
2013
Domaine MontiriusGigondas
Domaine Raspail-Ay, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
94
Very meaty indeed. Full-bodied and aromatically mature. Still bold in tannins and structure, but you can certainly open this now. Long finish, with roast beef and burnt thyme smokiness.
2013
Domaine Raspail-AyGigondas
Mas des Restanques, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Very spicy, with appealing woody (rather than oaky) aromas, and roasted spice. Full-bodied, generous, ripe and warm. Plenty of intensity and depth. Powerful, but not...
2014
Mas des RestanquesGigondas
Pierre Amadieu, Domaine Grand Romane, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
94
Relatively pale in the glass. Fresh and floral, with little sparks of cinnamon and nutmeg, some dried herbs too. More of this comes through on the palate, which has a lovely sense of freshness and liveliness, with pinpoint acidity and crisp layers of tannin. Great freshness and precision, excellent balance, and a long finish. A really lovely Gigondas that is ready now and will keep.
2013
Pierre AmadieuGigondas
Bergerie de la Plane, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Flinty, smoky, peppery nose. Good weight of ripe fruit with plenty of soft, gently chewy tannin. The alcohol is gently warming, but not unbalanced. Full...
2014
Bergerie de la PlaneGigondas
Domaine du Pourra, La Réserve, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Rather peculiar nose, very open, aromas lifted by a touch of volatile acidity. Blood orange, rose, wilted flowers. Soft on the palate, rounded, generous. Acidity...
2014
Domaine du PourraGigondas
Domaine du Terme, Réserve, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Rather pale for the vintage, with a distinctly perfumed expression. Soft, no excess weight or alcohol, the acidity feels natural and well integrated, and it...
2014
Domaine du TermeGigondas
Domaine du Terme, Réserve, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
A touch of roasted meat to the aromas. It’s powerful on the palate, but with a good sense of freshness and focus. Powerfully tannic, so...
2013
Domaine du TermeGigondas
Domaine Les Semelles De Vent, Clos du Garde, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
A little gunflint reduction on the nose gives a fresh, spicy lift to the aromas. Full-bodied but not massive, with plentiful ripe tannin that doesn't...
2013
Domaine Les Semelles De VentGigondas
Domaine les Sibu, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Violets, blueberries and liquorice make for fresh and precise aromas with a little garrigue herbal note on top. Soft and full-bodied, with a touch of...
2013
Domaine les SibuGigondas
Domaine Santa Duc, Les Hautes Garrigues, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Full-bodied, lush and opulent palate that’s also lightly smoky. It’s tannic still, and needs more time to show it's best, but this is beginning to...
2013
Domaine Santa DucGigondas
Pierre Amadieu, Domaine Grand Romane, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Slightly bloody note, with plentiful garrigue herbs. Full-bodied, concentrated, with good acidity and great rolling tannins. Long, fresh and tense, this has a very long...
2014
Pierre AmadieuGigondas
Domaine du Grapillon d'Or, 1806, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Lifted and perfumed with floral and spice notes prevailing, along with raspberry. Medium- to full-bodied, there’s plenty of fullness on the palate, with well-balanced acidity...
2014
Domaine du Grapillon d'OrGigondas
Domaine du Grapillon d'Or, 1806, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
A lifted, spicy nose gives way to a dense, full-bodied, concentrated style, with fairly generous alcohol. Tannins are still quite dense and thick. Good acidity...
2013
Domaine du Grapillon d'OrGigondas
Domaine du Grapillon d'Or, Excellence, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
If anything this is in something of a closed phase right now, the aromatics and texture feel quite locked up, so wait until at least...
2014
Domaine du Grapillon d'OrGigondas
Domaine La Fourmone, Le Fauquet, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Dried rose petals, cinnamon, this has a Moroccan spicing to the raspberry fruit. Fairly full-bodied and juicy, this still has a core of soft red...
2014
Domaine La FourmoneGigondas
Moulin de la Gardette, Ventabren, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Quite pale now, with hints of orange. Notes of kirsch, dried orange peel and dried flowers too. A hint of volatile acidity lifts them further....
2014
Moulin de la GardetteGigondas
Domaine de Longue Toque, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Ground baking spices are the first aromas to appear, followed by blackberry and liquorice. Full-bodied, quite darkly-fruited for a 2014, with a hint of menthol....
2014
Domaine de Longue ToqueGigondas
Domaine des Bosquets, Réserve, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Spicy, woody notes on the nose, almost gunflint. Full-bodied and rounded, there’s plenty of glycerol and the acidity is well balanced. Straight, ripe and fairly...
2014
Domaine des BosquetsGigondas
Domaine du Pourra, La Réserve, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Black cherry and damson aromas lifted by a hint of volatile acidity. Full-bodied and powerful, though not overly tannic. The tannins are big but ripe...
2013
Domaine du PourraGigondas
Gigondas la Cave, La Référence, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Full-bodied, rounded and generous, this is broad and flowing on the palate. Good sense of grip from some ripe, bountiful tannins. The alcohol is beginning...
2014
Gigondas la CaveGigondas
Gigondas la Cave, Signature, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Smoky, woody notes on the nose and palate. Raspberry and blackberry fruit, but it still feels quite closed. The acidity is marked and the...
2013
Gigondas la CaveGigondas
Domaine Saint Gayan, Origine, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Perfectly mature on the nose, the fruit mostly around raspberry, with a slightly woody spice underneath. A little earthy. Soft, medium-bodied, built more around acidity...
2014
Domaine Saint GayanGigondas
Domaine Saint Gayan, Origine, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Good sense of body and balance, with mostly smoky, meaty notes coming through over a robustly tannic, powerful frame. Alcohol does feel a little high,...
2013
Domaine Saint GayanGigondas
Château du Trignon, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Blackberry fruit, still fresh, and plenty of it. Tannic, powerful, long, with fairly high alcohol. Good length. Quite gruff, and could do with another year...
2013
Château du TrignonGigondas
Domaine Raspail-Ay, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Not terribly expressive on the nose. It’s better on the palate, rounded and generous in glycerol and soft red fruits. Riper than some 2014s, with...
2014
Domaine Raspail-AyGigondas
Pierre Amadieu, Le Pas de l'Aigle, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Rather peculiar sweet and sour effect on the nose - not really expressing much else. Full-bodied, dense, tannic and powerful. A strong beam of quite...
2013
Pierre AmadieuGigondas
Domaine de Font-Sane, Terrasses des Dentelles, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Sour cherry note on the nose and a touch of volatile acidity. This feels a little unripe and severe on the palate, with tight tannins....
2013
Domaine de Font-SaneGigondas
Domaine de Longue Toque, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Lots of smoky reduction on the nose still here, which is unlikely to ever leave the wine at this stage. Not as tannic as some,...
2013
Domaine de Longue ToqueGigondas
Domaine des Bosquets, Réserve, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Very dark in the glass still. Melted down blackberries, blackcurrant and smoke make for a hefty, powerful aromatic display. Extracted and concentrated. There's also a...
2013
Domaine des BosquetsGigondas
Domaine Montirius, Confidentiel, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Not quite as bright as some. Leaf tea aromas, gently earthy. Red fruits predominate beneath, between strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant, then sage. On the palate,...
2014
Domaine MontiriusGigondas
Gabriel Meffre, Laurus, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2013
Spicy sausage and some farmyard notes on the nose. Smooth on the palate, very full-bodied, with intense fruit and tannin. Rather hard and austere on...
2013
Gabriel MeffreGigondas
Pierre Amadieu, Le Pas de l'Aigle, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2014
Distinctly inexpressive aromatically, very closed. Faint raspberry, with some polished wood. Silky and straight with good smooth texture and some appealing spiciness on the nose,...
2014
Pierre AmadieuGigondas
