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Walls: The magic of mature Gigondas

Drinking mature wine can bring great pleasure and enjoyment, but it can also bring disappointment. Matt Walls examines seven vintages of mature Gigondas wines spanning the years between 1990 and 2005 and reports on what is drinking well now, what has passed its best and what should be kept in the cellar for longer.

Mature Gigondas

In 2019, I visited the cellars of Domaine du Cayron in Gigondas. With great generosity, sisters Delphine, Cendrine and Roseline Faraud opened a bottle of their 1971 vintage.  A very good year it might have been, but I’ll be honest with you, at 48 years of age I didn’t hold out much hope. I was wrong.

The aromas had moved beyond fruit into polished wood, cold ashes, cigar smoke and spice. There was still a dab of fruit sweetness on the palate, however. On the finish, that salinity – the tightrope that Gigondas walks as it ages – shone through.


Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 18 mature Gigondas wines spanning 1990 to 2005



1990 to 2005: 18 mature Gigondas wines tasted


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