Walls: How to find value in the Rhône
Despite being home to such prestigious and expensive names as Hermitage and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Rhône remains affordable and Matt Walls has five pointers on where to find some of the best value wines in the region.
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Unless you’re unusually adept at managing your Christmas finances, your wine budget for January is probably looking rather depleted. I know mine is.
The Rhône is often nominated as a region that offers good value for money, and there are certain styles, appellations and producers that do indeed offer exceptional bang for your buck. Here are five tips on how to find them.
Scroll down to see 10 of Mat Walls’ top value picks
1. Named villages
Some of the biggest bargains in the world of wine can be found in the southern Rhône. There are countless family-owned wineries, some of which are hundreds of years old, making authentic wines – often organically – for under £20 a bottle.
There is one layer of the appellation hierarchy that is particularly worth exploring if you’re looking for value. Known as ‘AP Côtes du Rhône Villages with geographic name’ (or ‘named villages’ for short), this is a group of 22 villages that can append their name to the appellation, such as AP Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet.
This is the penultimate level before villages can be elevated to cru status, such as Gigondas or Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Many of these producers are therefore striving to improve quality in the hope of their appellation being promoted, but prices remain accessible.
There are interesting wines produced in all 22 named villages, but I’d put forward the following as being particularly rich hunting grounds: Laudun, Massif d’Uchaux, Sablet, Saint-Andéol, Séguret, Valréas and Visan.
2. Châteauneuf-du-Pape
It might surprise you to see the most prestigious appellation in the southern Rhône on this list, but Châteauneuf-du-Pape is also the biggest – and if you look carefully there are some outstanding wines being made without big price tags.
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That being said, these wines still aren’t cheap – you’ll need to stretch to at least £35 a bottle – but I’d argue that if you buy wisely, they still offer good value compared to other wines around the world at this price level.
Names to look out for are Domaine Bois de Boursan, Famille Brunier’s Piedlong, and the entry-level cuvées from Domaine Roger Sabon, Clos St Michel, Domaine de la Solitude, Domaine Giraud, Château Jas de Bressy and Famille Perrin.
Let’s not forget the whites, too – Famille Brunier’s Clos Roquète, Domaine du Père Caboche, Château Mont-Redon and the entry-level cuvée of Domaine de la Solitude are all reliable options.
3. Satellite appellations
The appellations that surround the central Côtes du Rhône growing area can be a great source of intriguing but inexpensive wines in all colours. Some of these appellations are huge – particularly Ventoux, Costières de Nîmes and Luberon – and they can be quite mixed in quality. But they all contain some really exceptional pockets of terroir within them.
Below are some producers to explore with wines under £20 a bottle.
- In Ventoux: Domaine de Fondrèche, Château Unang, Château Pesquié, Domaine des Anges and Delas.
- In Costières de Nîmes: Château Beaubois, Château l’Ermite d’Auzan, Château Mourgues du Grès, Domaine Gassier and Terre des Chardons.
- In Luberon: Domaine de Fontenille, Marrenon, Château la Verrerie, Château Val Joanis and Château la Canorgue.
4. IGP Collines Rhodaniennes
Finding value in the northern Rhône isn’t so easy; only 6% of all AP wines produced in the Rhône Valley are from the northern Rhône. If you’re in the mood for some northern Rhône but want to avoid Hermitage prices, then consider wines labelled as IGP Collines Rhodaniennes – its growing area broadly covers the whole of the northern Rhône.
While southern Rhône producers might declassify their less favourable parcels or younger vines into AP Côtes du Rhône, the IGP Collines Rhodaniennes is usually used for the same job by northern Rhône producers, who appreciate the fact the IGP confirms the wines northerly origins. Reds are commonly pure Syrah, and whites are typically Viognier or Marsanne.
Excellent examples are made by producers such as Cave Yves Cuilleron, Domaine du Monteillet, Domaine François Merlin, Domaine Georges Vernay, Domaine Jasmin, Domaine Rostaing, Domaine Verzier, François Villard, Jean-Michel Gerin, M Chapoutier.
5. St-Péray
The northern Rhône’s most southerly appellation is also its least known: little St-Péray, which makes still white wines from Marsanne and/or Roussanne (and even a little sparkling). It’s had a run of impressive vintages, yet prices remain fair.
If you haven’t tried it, imagine a fresh but slightly softer version of white St-Joseph. There are plenty of good options under £30, including wines from Cave de Tain, Domaine Alain Voge, Domaine Franck Balthazar, Domaine Guy Farge, Domaine Johann Michel, Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Jean-Luc Colombo and particularly M Chapoutier’s new cuvée, Haut Chamblard.
10 of Matt Walls’ top value picks
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Château Juvenal, Les Ribes de Vallat, Ventoux, Rhône, France, 2021

Gorgeous nose of pink grapefruit, kaffir lime leaf and pink peppercorn. Full-bodied, but not overly fat or austere, there's a fluidity here. The firm acids rise on the finish. Just a point of florality from the Viognier that works well and doesn't dominate. A perfect introduction to Clairette.
2021
RhôneFrance
Château JuvenalVentoux
M Chapoutier, Haut Chamblard, St-Péray, Rhône, France, 2022

Deeply coloured, with aromas of millefeuille pastry and toasted hazelnuts, very inviting. Full-bodied and rich on the palate, with plenty of extract to chew on. There is good acidity and it’s well balanced, with nice freshness. Powerful, with intense flavour. Vineyards planted just higher than the village itself on granite soils in 2014.
2022
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierSt-Péray
Cave de Tain, Nobles Rives, St-Péray, Rhône, France, 2022

Subtle honeycomb and macadamia notes to the pear fruit. A light, fresh and easy-going style of St-Péray with pleasing acidity and drinkability.
2022
RhôneFrance
Cave de TainSt-Péray
Domaine de Coste Chaude, L'Octave, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Visan, Rhône, France, 2021

Red apple and pear on the nose, quite discreet but fresh. Full-bodied, with subtle ripe fruit, but it’s well balanced. It speaks quietly, but it has something to say. Notes of flinty smoke bring interest. A very good wine, very authentic, and a good example of pure Grenache Blanc.
2021
RhôneFrance
Domaine de Coste ChaudeCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine François Merlin, La Brocéliande, Collines Rhodaniennes, Rhône, France, 2021

Aromas of bitter orange and apricot skins open onto a medium- to full-bodied palate; very impressive for an IGP. There's appealing, quite piercing acidity, with good length and freshness. From Viognier vines planted in granite soils in St-Michel-sur-Rhône. Good value.
2021
RhôneFrance
Domaine François MerlinCollines Rhodaniennes
Jean-Michel Gerin, La Champine Viognier, Vin de France, Rhône, France, 2021

A restrained, neat style of Viognier, with a good sense of brightness and tension. Subtle violet and white pepper note. Good acidity, teamed with a touch of positive bitterness, helps to balance the alcohol. No great length, but this is very good nonetheless. Fermented and aged in stainless steel.
2021
RhôneFrance
Jean-Michel GerinVin de France
Clos St Michel, Cuvée Spéciale, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2019

Lovely nose, combining sweet spices and savoury notes. Silky, elegant, juicy fruit on the palate. It's powerful but not excessive, with a good feeling of mass and presence; the tannins are all very ripe and melted down. A big, ripe, satisfying Châteauneuf. Aged 20% in used 225-litre barrels, the rest in concrete tanks and foudres.
2019
RhôneFrance
Clos St MichelChâteauneuf-du-Pape
La Grande Ourse, Ursa Major Les Combes, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Suze la Rousse, Rhône, France, 2021

Delicious, fresh and smooth, quite light in tannin, with a lovely sheen to the fruit and no recourse to oak. The alcohol is generous but this is a pure, clean and really quite serious wine. Great intensity and impact – you can see why many consider Pascal Chalon to be one of the most exciting winemakers in the Rhône. Quite reticent on the nose for now, so start drinking this from 2024 and decant. Biodynamic.
2021
RhôneFrance
La Grande OurseCôtes du Rhône Villages
Famille Perrin, Le Chemin de Mulets, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2020

Clean, polished red fruits. Soft, silky and juicy, with flowing red berries across the palate. No rough edges, plenty of power and concentration. Alcohol is a touch noticeable, but this is beautifully ripe, authentic and long. Very elegant and refined. Aged in foudres for two years before release.
2020
RhôneFrance
Famille PerrinChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Gallety, Cuvée Emma, Côtes du Vivarais, Rhône, France, 2020

Surprisingly pale in colour for a cuvée with so much Syrah, but certainly tastes as though it’s based on Grenache. Appealing sweet raspberry and wild strawberry notes, some darker plum and florals in the background. Full-bodied, generous, with fairly low acidity, but still with a sense of freshness. A subtle touch of bitter orange comes through on the palate. Elegant style. Fermented in concrete, matured in oak barrels for 24 months.
2020
RhôneFrance
Domaine GalletyCôtes du Vivarais

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.