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Hot springs, outdoor sports, delicious local produce and Pinot-based wines make this pretty corner of Germany a real draw, discovers Sue Style. Published in the June 2012 issue.
Baden: Where to stay, shop, eat and relax
Hotels and restaurants
Franz Keller
Schwarzer Adler Ideal Kaiserstuhl base in Vogtsburg- Oberbergen combining boutique hotel, Michelin-starred restaurant, gastropub, winery and wine import business. franz-keller.de
Hotel Bareiss
Five-star, family-owned hotel in Baiersbronn. Several restaurants (including three-star Bareiss with huge wine list and award-winning sommelier Jürgen Fendt), great buffet breakfast and state-of-theart spa. bareiss.com
Hotel Engel
Charming hotel-restaurant on the main street of Sasbachwalden with Badisch cooking served by waitresses in traditional dress. Well-priced wines, including from noteworthy co-op Alde Gott. engel-sasbachwalden.de
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Hotel-Restaurant
Ritter Classy Durbach hotel in a recently revamped historic building with glimpses of steep vineyards on every side. Creative cuisine in Michelin-starred restaurant and Badisch/Alsatian dishes in the bistro. ritter-durbach.de
Hotel-Restaurant Traube
Michelin-starred restaurant in the tiny village of Blansingen with outstanding wine list and rooms.
Landgasthof Rebstock
Pretty country inn in Egringen with a succinct wine list, asparagus in spring, game in autumn, and a few rooms. rebstock-egringen.de
Schlafen im Weinfass
Have supper watching the sunset over vines in Sasbachwalden then snuggle up under a red-checked duvet in a converted wine cask. schlafen-im-weinfass.de
Shops
Geldermann Privatsektkellerei
Traditional, bottle-fermented sparkling wine made since 1904 in vaulted cellars beneath the town of Breisach. geldermann.de
Hardthof
This farm shop is a favourite of top chefs and local gourmets for asparagus (white and green), seasonal salads, vegetables and fruit. hardthof-pfrengle.de
Weinhandlung Kreis
Stuttgart-based wine merchant and online shop by former sommelier with eclectic range including top Baden names. shop.wein-kreis.de
Activities
Cassiopeia Thermal Baths
Baden equals bathing, and Badenweiler offers 3,800m2 of gorgeous indoor and outdoor pools with natural hot springs, four different saunas, Roman-Irish bath and countless spa treatments. badenweiler.de
Electric biking
Tour the vineyards on an electric bike, with strategic stops for tastings and to recharge batteries along the way. ihringen.de
Kaiserstuhlpfad
21.5km hiking trail that starts in Endingen or Ihringen and goes through the heart of the Kaiserstuhl vineyards – a regular bus service at either end returns you to your starting point. schwarzwald-tourismus.info
Museum Frieder Burda
Luminous Richard Meier museum in Baden-Baden where a modern and contemporary art collection alternates with visiting exhibits. (Anselm Kiefer, William Copley, Gerhard Richter etc.) museum-frieder-burda.de
Vitra Design Museum
Originally conceived to house the Vitra design company’s furniture collection, now an astonishing architectural complex in Weil-am- Rhein (Frank Gehry, Tadeo Anda, Zaha Hadid, Herzog & de Meuron etc). design-museum.de
Sue Style is into food, wine and travel and writes about all three – sometimes separately, often in combination. She comes originally from Yorkshire and has migrated over the years to London, Madrid, Fontainebleau, Mexico City and Basel. She lives in southern Alsace, within spitting distance of the region’s vineyards and conveniently placed for cross-border raids into Switzerland and across the Rhine to Baden/Germany, both of whose wines and food she explores at every opportunity. She also travels regularly to Catalunya, where both her children have had the good taste to settle. She's the author of nine books on subjects ranging from Mexican food through the food and wines of Alsace and of Switzerland to creative vegetable cookery.