‘I forgot how delicious mature Bordeaux is’: 22 bottle-aged wines to drink now
Amid the en primeur frenzy, it's worth revisiting Bordeaux vintages that are drinking well now, to remind yourself why it may be worth investing in some 2025s.
Sometimes, I forget how delicious Bordeaux is. Good Bordeaux, that is.
There’s an ocean of Bordeaux that will underwhelm you – but, when it’s good, it really is the best (just don’t tell the Burgundians).
Mouthwatering, fresh and utterly moreish, ageing with a grace I can only dream of: there’s a reason the wine trade makes such a fuss when the new vintage is unveiled.
While the 2025s are just starting their élevage (check out Georgie Hindle’s en primeur report on the anticipated vintage), there are plenty of vintages on the market that you should or could be drinking now – and not necessarily from the most lauded years.
Château Brane-Cantenac was a highlight in recent tastings – a wine that has old-school appeal and is singing now, while some, such as Château Cos d’Estournel, still feel youthful.
Similarly, the frost-bitten 2017s are charming and juicy – tuck into them and enjoy.
Pleasant surprises and promises
I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the openness of some 2015s – such as Château Giscours or Château Clerc Milon.
It’s a vintage I associate with muscle and power, and wines that often seem to have frozen in their evolution.
Château Montrose, however, bucks the trend, as well as its own reputation for austerity (shaken off in more recent vintages): it’s a wine I'd love to have in my cellar.
The 2019 vintage is deserving of its reputation, and it’s amazing how approachable some wines from that year already are – don’t be scared to test the waters if you were wise enough to stock up.
Lastly, it’s a reminder I myself need: don’t forget about white Bordeaux.
Ageworthy, textured, utterly delicious and still often brilliant value – it’s something I’m vowing to drink more of.
Bordeaux wines
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Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2021
Sweet and honeyed with creamy richness as well as vibrant grassy tones, this is a gorgeous white. The palate is textured and round, yet driven...
2021
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France 2023
A zesty and vibrant white, vividly green, scented with gooseberry, herbaceous notes, lemon pith and hints of sweet sherbet. It’s lithe on the palate –...
2023
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2004
There is a lovely softness to the 2004 Lafite-Rothschild – a wine that feels open and ready, primed for drinking. The nose combines spicy perfume...
2004
Château Lafite RothschildPauillac
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Rouge, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017
This offers a heady nose, sweet and dark-fruited, overflowing with blackcurrants – not yet revealing its full aromatic complexity. The palate lays out the potential...
2017
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017
Ducru-Beaucaillou’s 2017 remains a little closed on the nose, needing further time to offer its full array of aromatics, but the promise is clear. The...
2017
Château Ducru-BeaucaillouSaint-Julien
Château Montrose, St-Estèphe 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2015
Pretty, delicate florals – violets – complement graphite minerality on the nose of this delicious 2015. Like the 2019 Dame de Montrose tasted alongside, there’s...
2015
Château MontroseSt-Estèphe
Château Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2012
This is still a baby, only just starting shift into more tertiary aromas on the nose – with plenty of dark fruit dominating still. It...
2012
Château Cos d'EstournelSt-Estèphe
Château Montrose, La Dame de Montrose, St-Estèphe, 2019
Buy this: it’s brilliant. Pure, dark fruit and florals sit alongside that typical sludgy, earthy, estuary edge. The palate has a crystalline quality – the...
2019
Château MontroseSt-Estèphe
Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017
This is shy at first, but a blur of fruit shifts to reveal a floral lift, ground coffee and pencil shavings. Still vibrant and youthful,...
2017
Château Haut-BaillyPessac-Léognan
Château Giscours, Margaux 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2015
Aromas of pepper, spice, tobacco leaf and liquorice twists complement the plummy red fruit here. The palate is lush and juicy, waves of dark blackcurrant...
2015
Château GiscoursMargaux
Château Clerc Milon, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2015
This is a very elegant and lively 2015. Fresh blackcurrant and lifted florals dance alongside fresh pencil shavings on the nose, leading to a fresh...
2015
Château Clerc MilonPauillac
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2012
In a gorgeous spot now, the 2012 Brane-Cantenac has a nose that combines bloody tones with the scent of sweet decay and crushed hedgerow fruit...
2012
Château Brane-CantenacMargaux
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016
This is a wine that punches well above its weight – and is in a beautiful spot at the moment. The nose combines juicy fruit...
2016
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Lafite Rothschild, Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, 2010
This still feels youthful but opens up with air. The nose is a touch high-toned, but the palate is impressive – concentrated and long, intense...
2010
Château Lafite RothschildPauillac
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011
This has a delicious ferrous note to the nose, combining with earthy, savoury tones. The wine is long and persistent, linear and driven, packed with...
2011
Château Rauzan-SéglaMargaux
Château Ormes de Pez, St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France 2019
This is exceptional value in the brilliant 2019 vintage. A bright, sweet, scented nose leads on to a lithe and juicy palate – packed with...
2019
Château Ormes de PezSt-Estèphe
Château Canon, St Emilion, Premier Grands Crus Classes B, Bordeaux, France, 2011
Tertiary notes are emerging here – savoury notes of forest undergrowth sitting alongside the wine’s natural fruit. The palate combines both a vibrant freshness and...
2011
Château CanonSt Emilion
Château Pédesclaux, Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux 2018
With a lifted, expressive nose where cassis mingles with more delicate florals and a graphite edge, this is a vibrant 2018 from Pédesclaux. The palate...
2018
Château PédesclauxPauillac
Clos du Marquis, Saint-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011
Decidedly spicy, the 2011 Clos du Marquis combines layers of dark fruit with freshly grated nutmeg and cinnamon bark, and an earthy undertone. The palate...
2011
Clos du MarquisSaint-Julien
Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2017
This is a supple and fresh wine. The nose has an estuary edge that sits behind scented florals and dark fruit. The palate is soft...
2017
Château Duhart-MilonPauillac
Château Potensac, Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2010
The nose of this modest 2010 is still amazingly fruit-driven – making it bright, juicy and enticing. There’s a density to the palate, full and...
2010
Château PotensacMédoc
Château Phélan Ségur, St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France, 2018
The 2018 Phélan Ségur has an intensely savoury nose – almost marmite-like in its umami intensity. The palate is full and dark-fruited, with a chiselled...
2018
Château Phélan SégurSt-Estèphe
