On the rack: Ronan Sayburn MS reflects on his wine story

Working in hospitality, it was part of the job. I quickly realised that wine combines many sciences, history, geography, agriculture, craftsmanship and service in a way few subjects do.

Having a curious nature, this made it fascinating for me. High-end restaurants were the real classroom.

You learn fast when guests are spending serious money and expecting competence rather than theatrical waffle.

Mostly in a temperature-controlled Eurocave at home, and I am lucky to have a large, converted wine shed in the back of my garden that’s temperature- and humidity-controlled.

A mixture of the classic and the practical. Plenty of Rhône, Burgundy and Champagne, alongside German Riesling and mature Bordeaux.

I also keep good-quality ‘midweek’ wines around: Austrian Grüner Veltliner, Beaujolais, Etna Rosso and Loire Cabernet Franc, plus wines from China, Greece, South Africa and England.

Mostly from specialist merchants and importers. Independent merchants employ people who taste and recommend the wines. I also buy wine directly from producers when I’m travelling.

I honestly don’t buy wine from supermarkets, not to sound snobbish – I just prefer to buy from elsewhere.

A good grower Champagne or northern Rhône Syrah usually works. If it’s winter, perhaps Barolo or mature Rioja.

Snacks would be good crisps, salted almonds, charcuterie or strong cheese.

Roast lamb with mature Bordeaux is hard to beat. Braised short ribs with Napa Cabernet. But simplicity often wins. Jamón Iberico with palo cortado Sherry is also a favourite.

I prefer classic restaurants with proper service and deep wine lists rather than trendy places where someone explains the emotional journey of their ingredients.

In London, The Ritz Restaurant still represents hospitality at the highest level. I usually go to places where I know the sommelier and get them to choose the wine.

Slow-roasted shoulder of lamb with garlic and rosemary.

It’s forgiving to cook, feeds a table well and works beautifully with mature Bordeaux or Rhône wines, and Greek Xinomavro.

Vintage Champagne. It always has a feeling of ceremony without requiring explanation.

Having worked in some great restaurants, there have been many: 1945 Mouton, 1896 Lafite, 1929 Haut-Brion, 1900 Margaux.

I once recommended a 1999 Charmes-Chambertin from Dujac to Paul McCartney – he only drank half so gave me the rest, and I finished it later that night while doing the stocktake.

Some of the most memorable have been familiar wines or new discoveries shared late at night with colleagues after a busy service. Sommeliers often remember context more than prestige.

With specific people, trying Rubicon with Francis Ford Coppola, sharing Prüm wines with Christian Seely, and a 1991 Romanée-Conti with Aubert de Villaine – he poured the last drop of wine and sediment into our glasses and said: ‘In Burgundy, we drink the sediment.’

A perfectly stored bottle of Romanée-Conti 1945. Partly because of its mythical status, partly because there are so few bottles left.

I’d strongly recommend exploring Etna, Santorini and Swartland. They all combine distinctive wines with a strong local food culture and real identity.