Value Burgundy: Top 30 reds and whites under £20
Look in the right places and there is still Burgundy, white and red, that can be bought and enjoyed on a budget of up to £20. Our expert’s tasting of 65 wines produced the following top 30 choices.
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Wines were tasted blind by Andy Howard MW at Decanter’s offices in London – producers and UK agents were invited to submit white and red still wines from any region in Burgundy except Chablis, priced up to £20 in the UK.
Prices continue to spiral for wines from the Côte d’Or – Burgundy lovers’ choices for good-value options are increasingly limited. Demand remains sky-high and this, combined with significant reductions in the volumes produced in 2016, 2019 and 2020, has led to even higher prices. And that was all before the drastic losses suffered in 2021 (through frosts, snow, vine diseases and rain), compounded by rising fuel and raw material costs, have added even greater pressure.
Rebecca Palmer, buyer and associate director at merchant Corney & Barrow, summed up the current situation, lamenting: ‘Côte Chalonnaise pricing is where village Burgundy used to be not so long ago, with the Côte d’Or off the chart. Much of it is inaccessible to most.’ So where should consumers look now?
Scroll down to see Andy Howard’s top 30 value Burgundy wines under £20
There are 84 appellations within the wine regions of Bourgogne, with the top of the quality pyramid occupied by famous names from the Côte d’Or, such as Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, Meursault and the Montrachets. Within these appellations, village-level wines support even more renowned premier and grand cru exotica from specific vineyard sites – the latter often costing many hundreds of pounds per bottle.
The rise in prices for wines from the Côte d’Or has naturally led to greater interest in lower-cost alternatives. Wines from the less-renowned sites of the Côte d’Or (for example, the Hautes Côtes de Nuits or Beaune), Côte Chalonnaise, the Mâconnais and Grand Auxerrois (either side of the Chablis area, including APs Irancy, Saint-Bris and Vézelay) have been increasingly touted as the way forward for Burgundy lovers seeking quality combined with value.
At the same time, there have been improvements in many of these (previously) less favoured areas, partly due to improved techniques and the arrival of new generations of winemakers, together with a warming climate bringing fruit grown on marginal sites into better maturity. Palmer notes ‘many smaller appellations are on the up, often in the hands of a younger generation’, and that ‘sites that might previously have been considered infeasible are becoming more interesting in light of climate change’.
See tasting notes and scores for all 63 red and white value Burgundy wines
Around the regions
This blind tasting of 67 wines showed that there are still some fine Bourgogne wines to be found at up to £20 per bottle. What was encouraging was the geographical range – among 21 whites scoring more than 91 points, five were from the Côte Chalonnaise (including three produced from the Aligoté grape), one from the Grand Auxerrois (Chablis was excluded from this tasting but still remains a great source for top-quality, well-priced Chardonnay). There was a strong showing from wines produced with a blend of grapes sourced from across the region, while the well-known Cave des Vignerons de Buxy cooperative, Cave de Viré and Vignerons des Terres Secrètes (at Prissé) continue to excel.
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It was unsurprising that wines from the Mâconnais scored highly. Fourteen wines are recommended, with these showing much more interest than might have been expected a few years ago. Whereas many wines from this region used to be attractive, easy-drinking, ripe and stone-fruit driven, relatively few offered the terroir-focused intensity of wines from the Côte d’Or. The tasting showed that the best examples from the Mâconnais offer a winning combination of purity, ripeness and terroir influence.
Of the nine red wines selected, three came from the Côte d’Or, with the same number from the Côte Chalonnaise. Within the latter group, Mercurey showed as an appellation moving forward and well worth considering.
Smaller family domaines performed strongly. These offer the greatest opportunity for ‘terroir hunters’ to find wines offering even more complexity, finesse and character than some of the (very good) wines made from purchased grapes and/or cross-regional blends. The domaine wines from Carrette, de la Croix-Senaillet, Dominique Cornin, Sève and Masse are worth searching out.
Finding fine Burgundy below £20 retail is a challenge, but there are still plenty of options. How long this remains so will be partly driven by volumes produced in the next couple of vintages. It seems likely prices will continue to move upwards, so now is the time to buy.
Andy Howard’s top 30 value Burgundy wines under £20
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Domaine Carrette, Les Chantenays, Mâconnais, St-Véran, Burgundy, France, 2020

94
A16ha estate nestling beneath the imposing rock of Vergisson, this small family domaine is run by Nathalie and Hervé Carrette. Les Chatenays comes from a 1ha block at 390m-400m on sandy/limestone clay soils. There is plenty to enjoy here with the richness and ripeness of 2020 allied to vibrant acidity on the palate. Not over the top, but a fine combination of fruit ripeness and focus. Subtle lees-aged character with mineral notes to finish. A high-class, fine example of St-Véran.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Domaine CarretteMâconnais
Domaine de la Croix Senaillet, Mâconnais, St-Véran, Burgundy, France, 2021

93
The domaine is run by Richard and Stéphane Martin, who tend some 60 individual parcels. This is a vibrant, sunny and fresh example of St-Véran with weight and richness balanced by complex flavours and bright acidity to finish. From older vines, this has been aged for 10 months with a small proportion in barrel. An appealing mineral edge adds to the complexity. Plush and long on the finish with potential for further ageing.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Domaine de la Croix SenailletMâconnais
Domaine Dominique Cornin, Les Bruyères, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Fuissé, Burgundy, France, 2021

93
This leading domaine is run by Dominique and his son Romain; their 10ha are certified organic and biodynamic principles are applied. A very fine Mâcon-Fuissé with plenty to like on both nose and palate. Lots of complexity of flavour, from the leesy, biscuity notes to ripeness and concentration of fruit, allied to the crisp, vibrant acidity. A classy and great-value wine with the potential to age well for several years.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Dominique CorninMâconnais
Bourcier-Martinot, Macon Villages, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Villages, Burgundy, France, 2021

92
Longtime friends Jean-Luc Terrier and Christian Collovray of Domaine des Deux Roches recently launched this value range created from purchased grapes. This shows the same attention to detail as any of their wines. Plenty of weight and ripeness with extra richness from the maturation in wood (will settle down with a further 12 months in bottle). Bright acidity to balance the concentration.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Bourcier-MartinotMâconnais
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Côtes Salines Chardonnay, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

92
This Côtes Salines from a dynamic estate in Chablis shows appealing creamy/lactic notes on the nose, good concentration on the palate and crisp acidity to keep everything in check. A fine example of Bourgogne Chardonnay with mineral, stony characters on the finish and plenty of freshness and complexity. Definitely shows the effect of the cooler, more northerly terroir.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Céline & Frédéric GueguenBourgogne
Domaine Dominique Cornin, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Chaintré, Burgundy, France, 2021

92
As with the Cornins’ Mâcon-Fuissé, there is plenty to like here. Rich and concentrated with brisk acidity to keep everything fresh, some leesy, creamy notes, with a bite of zesty citrus to keep the ripe fruit in check. Intriguing, long mineral finish. A very classy wine and a top example of village Mâcon.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Dominique CorninMâconnais
Marcel Couturier, Le Bourg, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Loché, Burgundy, France, 2021

Certified organic in 2021 and fully biodynamic from 2022, the grapes here are harvested by hand, fermented with wild yeasts then aged on fine lees...
2021
BurgundyFrance
Marcel CouturierMâconnais
Domaine Masse, Bourgogne Chardonnay Cote Chalonnaise Vieilles Vignes, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2021

92
With their vine-cultivating roots dating back to 1595, Domaine Masse Père et Fils has a very long history in the region. This is a fresh, good-value Bourgogne Chardonnay and although the acidity is a little edgy and sharp at the moment, there is plenty of weight and concentration in this Vieilles Vignes bottling. Floral nose allied to apple/pear fruit character. Good length to finish, with an appealing mineral note at the end.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Domaine MasseBourgogne
Edouard Delaunay, Septembre Chardonnay, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

92
Now made by fifth-generation Laurent Delaunay, Septembre is a blend with roughly a third each coming from the Côte d’Or, the Mâconnais (for richness) and the Yonne (freshness/mineral notes). A wine with lots of floral notes, while the palate is concentrated and complex, with a delicious combination of stone fruit cut with lime zest notes. Brisk acidity and a stony finish make for a fine entry-level Bourgogne Chardonnay.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Edouard DelaunayBourgogne
Maison Auvigue, Corney & Barrow White Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon, Burgundy, France, 2021

92
A blend made for Corney & Barrow by the Auvigue family, based in Pouilly-Fuissé. Cool, fresh and harmonious on the palate. There is plenty of concentration evident, despite the challenges of the difficult 2021 growing season. Bright apple notes complemented by lemon acidity and appealing, fresh mineral characters to finish. No oak used but there is no shortage of interest here. Long and elegant finish.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Maison AuvigueMâconnais
Vignerons des Terres Secretes, Croix de Montceau St-Véran, Mâconnais, St-Véran, Burgundy, France, 2019

92
The Prissé-based cave’s St-Véran lieu-dit Croix de Montceau comes from south-facing vines at 300m on clay-limestone soils. A weighty, rich, plush example from the hot 2019 vintage, this retains plenty of purity and freshness. No oak evident which helps maintain the fresh character on the palate. Mineral notes to finish. Very nicely done.
2019
BurgundyFrance
Vignerons des Terres SecretesMâconnais
Bourcier-Martinot, St Veran, Mâconnais, St-Véran, Burgundy, France, 2021

91
Another success under the Bourcier-Martinot label which marries fine quality with top value. Good combination of purity of fruit, a hint of oak maturation, lively cleansing acidity. Not trying too hard but a fresh, vibrant example with an appealing mineral edge to finish. Lots to enjoy here – bright and very elegant on the finish.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Bourcier-MartinotMâconnais
Boutinot, Genetie Illuminé Chardonnay, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

91
Sourced from a 12ha plot in Bussières in the southern Mâconnais. Plenty of concentration from vines averaging more than 40 years of age. Brisk acidity balances the richness and concentration of ripe fruit with a lick of 10% oak maturation adding more complexity on the palate. An attractive early-drinking wine with good purity and a salty character on the finish.
2020
BurgundyFrance
BoutinotBourgogne
Cave De Vire, Vérizet Fleurs Blanches Mâcon, Mâconnais, Mâcon, Burgundy, France, 2020

91
Produced by Vérizet, part of the Cave de Viré, Fleurs Blanches is a very well-priced Mâcon. Sourced from older vines, and displaying the extra ripeness from the warm 2020 vintage this is a fresh, clean and vibrant example. Floral, plenty of interest on the nose and palate with fleshiness and purity of flavour. A crisp and enjoyable wine which will drink well for 12-18 months.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Cave De VireMâconnais
Domaine Perraud, Bourgogne, Aligoté, Burgundy, France, 2021

91
A blend from different plots, this is bright and brisk with nice weight on the palate, showing the typical Aligoté freshness and lick of citrus acidity. Eight months' maturation in tank has added extra complexity with a honeyed edge adding an almost luxurious note. Drinking well now, this has the acidity to drink well for a year or two. A fine result in the tricky 2021 vintage.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Domaine PerraudBourgogne
Domaine Jean-Pierre Sève, Mâcon-Solutré, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Solutré, Burgundy, France, 2021

91
A very appealing Mâcon from a small, fifth-generation family estate in Solutré. There's crisp green apple acidity and loads of freshness on the palate. Perhaps just veering towards being a bit too tart for some palates, it will appeal to those who enjoy wines with more acidity and a slightly bitter edge. A style of Mâcon which I enjoy.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Jean-Pierre SèveMâconnais
Maison Chanzy, Les Trois Bouzeron, Bouzeron, Burgundy, France, 2020

91
Aligoté is one of Chanzy’s specialities. With extra weight and concentration from the 2020 vintage, the wine shows lactic, creamy notes on both nose and palate. Broad and showing nice maturity now, this still has the concentration to age well for several years. There is plenty of typical Aligoté bright lemon acidity keeping the wine fresh, albeit it finishes just a little short.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Maison ChanzyBouzeron
Vignerons des Terres Secretes, Châtenay Viré-Clessé, Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé, Burgundy, France, 2020

91
This cooperative in Prissé has more than 350 growers, comprising just over 1,000ha under the direction of winemaker Georges Brichon. This wine shows the additional concentration often found with the wines from Viré-Clessé. Intriguing, with notes of orange box, roasted peach, plenty of acidity, and mineral notes to balance on the finish. Long, lingering finish.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Vignerons des Terres SecretesMâconnais
Cave de Buxy, House of Townend White Burgundy, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2021

90
From the renowned, high-quality cooperative at Buxy, a light, easy and straightforward Bourgogne Chardonnay which marries fresh peach character with a lick of lime/lemon acidity. Although not hugely concentrated there is plenty of purity and precision here, and the wine represents good value.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Cave de BuxyBourgogne
Domaine Florent Garaudet, Aligoté, Bourgogne, Aligoté, Burgundy, France, 2018

90
Florent is the fifth generation at this family estate in Monthélie, and their small parcel of Vieilles Vignes Aligoté is located in Puligny. This intriguing wine balances the warmth of the 2018 season with the acidity of Aligoté. Still fresh in the mouth, hints of oak maturation are subtle and add to the complexity. Not a heavyweight, but light and fresh, with plenty of Aligoté typicity.
2018
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Florent GaraudetBourgogne
Domaine Pascal Bouchard, Reserve Saint-Pierre Chardonnay, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

90
Showing the freshness and concentration of the excellent 2020 vintage, this blend has matured well and still shows plenty of vibrant acidity to balance the weight of ripe, peach-driven fruit. Lacks a little complexity but well priced for what it offers.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Pascal BouchardBourgogne
Domaine Machard de Gramont, Le Chapitre Rouge, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

93
From a 20ha family estate in Nuits-St-Georges, this Pinot Noir is one of just three allowed to use a named lieu-dit with the Bourgogne designation, and future releases will be classified as Marsannay. Dark hue, with crisp, crunchy berry fruit, lots to enjoy on nose and palate. Lifted, floral aromas, a stony character on the finish. Elegant, with the ripeness of 2020 balanced by vibrant acidity, shows lots of dimensions and has plenty of time to evolve further.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Machard de GramontBourgogne
Vincent et Jean-Pierre Charton, Derrière Sazenay Rouge, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

93
Vincent and Jean-Pierre’s estate includes two fine Bourgogne Rouges, and this one is from the higher slopes on calcareous marl and limestone. Deep, dark, rich and appealing on both nose and palate. Soft, plush fruit character. Dark berry and cherry, with a touch of damson fruit as well. Very nicely balanced with the oak influence (12 months' maturation, 15% new). Fresh and long on the finish.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Vincent et Jean-Pierre ChartonBourgogne
Vincent et Jean-Pierre Charton, Champ de Perdrix Rouge, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

93
At this Mercurey estate, Vincent credits his father Jean-Pierre with identifying and purchasing many of their key sites. A delicious, characterful Bourgogne Rouge that balances slightly rustic tannins with appealing freshness and ripeness of fruit and long, lingering acidity. A subtle touch of oak adds to the appeal. A fine, leafy, elegant and complex wine with plenty of ageing potential.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Vincent et Jean-Pierre ChartonBourgogne
Château de Laborde, Cuvée H Pinot Noir, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

92
Château de Laborde sources most of its grapes for Cuvée H from around Santenay, south of the Côte de Beaune. It's a fine example of Bourgogne Rouge, showing fleshy ripe fruit and crisp acidity keeping the palate fresh, with subtle oak adding further complexity. Crunchy, red berry notes on the finish. A very grown-up style which overdelivers for its regional designation. Lots to enjoy and savour.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Château de LabordeBourgogne
Domaine Pascal & Laurent Borgeot, Davy’s Red Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2020
92
Produced and bottled for Davy's by brothers Pascal & Laurent Borgeot at their domaine in Remigny. Sourced from 40-year-old vines and with 20% of the blend matured in new oak, there is plenty of interest on the nose and the wine displays a deep, intense colour in the glass. Good ripeness to the fruit - dark cherry and blackberry on the palate with a crunch of fresh acidity which cuts through the ripeness. Subtle oak notes add further dimensions on the finish. Very nicely done.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Domaine Pascal & Laurent BorgeotCôte de Beaune
Edouard Delaunay, Septembre Pinot Noir, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2020

92
A blend of Pinot Noir from both the Côte d’Or and Côte Chalonnaise, this has deep colour in the glass with depth and concentration on the palate. Good definition with lots to enjoy. Dark fruit characters, blackberry and raspberry, with fine tannins and a hint of oak to add subtle layers of flavour. Will drink well for several years.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Edouard DelaunayBourgogne
Bertrand Ambroise, Lettre d'Eloïse Pinot Noir, Coteaux Bourguignons, Burgundy, France, 2021

91
Bertrand’s children François and Ludivine are also involved in their Nuits-St-Georges family estate, which has led to a drive for full organic certification. Lettre d’Eloïse is a serious, complex example of Pinot Noir at this price level, with floral, leafy notes and plenty of dark cherry and berry fruits allied to crisp acidity and a fine mineral thread on the finish. Very nicely done.
2021
BurgundyFrance
Bertrand AmbroiseCoteaux Bourguignons
Boutinot, Domaine de la Chapelle Bizot, Cuvée SB Chiroubles, Beaujolais, Chiroubles, Burgundy, France, 2021

91
Winemaker Samantha Bailey has produced a fresh, characterful Chiroubles. Always one of the lightest Beaujolais crus, this is a blend of individual parcels from the slopes. A cool, crisp and intriguing Gamay with plenty of interest here for lovers of youthful, fruit-forward red wines. The natural acidity of Gamay shines through, together with floral notes and dark cherry fruit on the palate.
2021
BurgundyFrance
BoutinotBeaujolais
Bourcier-Martinot, Macon Rouge, Mâconnais, Mâcon, Burgundy, France, 2020

90
Deep, dark, rich colour in the glass. Lots to enjoy here, with bright acidity, freshness and dark cherry on the palate. Savoury and mineral notes. Quite a robust style of Gamay balanced with a crisp and precise finish.
2020
BurgundyFrance
Bourcier-MartinotMâconnais

Andy Howard MW became a Master of Wine in 2011 and runs his own consultancy business, Vinetrades Ltd, which focuses on education, judging, investment and sourcing.
He previously worked for Marks & Spencer as a buyer for over 30 years and was responsible as wine buyer for Burgundy, Bordeaux, Loire, Champagne, Italy, North and South America, South Africa, England, Port and Sherry.
Although his key areas of expertise are Burgundy and Italy, he also has great respect for the wines of South America and South Africa, as well as a keen interest in the wines from South West France
He is a Decanter contributing editor and is the DWWA Regional Chair for Central Italy. Andy also writes a regular column on the UK wine retail trade for JancisRobinson.com.