The full tasting notes - by Stephen Brook
The following wines are a personal selection of around 75 top white wines from the several hundred tasted during January 2011’s en primeur campaign. It includes a dozen or so wines that offer excellent value. It would have been easy to list only grands crus, but I have tried to select wines from a range of vineyards and prices. This does not pretend to be a comprehensive list, as many of the top estates – Romanée-Conti, Leroy, Mortet, Dujac, Ramonet, Leflaive, Coche-Dury, Roumier, Rousseau, and a few others – do not make their wines available for press tastings at this stage – or, in some cases, ever.
Joseph Drouhin, Grand Cru, Le Montrachet 2009
Closed nose, but the palate is powerful and super-concentrated. Rich and full-bodied, this packs a punch yet remains lifted, elegant, and very persistent. Drink 2015-2040. (18.5 points)
£3395-3600/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Bouchard Pere & Fils, La Cabotte, Grand Cru, Chevalier-Montrachet 2009
Subdued oaky nose, with lurking richness and power. Voluptuous and a touch soft on the attack, but it soon shows admirable concentration and intense extract. Very long. Drink 2015-2025. (18.5 points)
£2500-2880/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069)
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Grand Cru, Montrachet 2009
Very oaky nose, pear aromas. Plump, dense, and spicy, but also invigorating and intense; highly concentrated and citric but not aggressive, with excellent balance and length. Drink 2015-2025. (18.5 points)
£3200-3960/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069)
Louis Jadot, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet 2009
Reserved oaky nose, appley. Very rich, full-bodied, and concentrated, powerful and assertive, with good minerality for Bâtard as well as flesh and weight. Very good length. Drink 2015-2025. (18.5 points)
£1595/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110)
Joseph Drouhin, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet 2009
Lively lemony nose. Suave and velvety, with tremendous weight of fruit that’s close to tropical, but with sufficient acidity to keep it from being heavy. Long. Drink 2014-2022. (18.5 points)
approx £1770
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Colin-Deleger, les Demoiselles, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Muted but oaky nose. Ripe and powerful, this is concentrated, spicy, and imposing; both oaky and mineral, this needs time and will evolve well. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
approx £830/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet, les Perrieres, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Reduced nose, but still in cask. Rich, broad, and concentrated, quite mineral with a grainy texture, though a bit raw now. Need reassessment after bottling, but tight and long and shows great promise. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£465-498/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits, Cuvee Marine, Domaine Anne Gros 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Fine lemony oaky nose. Full-bodied, assertive, and surprisingly powerful, with a long tangy finish. Drink now-2013. (17 points)
approx £140/case (in bond)
Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Francois Mikulski, Genevrieres, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Muted nose: apricot and talc. Rich, full-bodied, and generous, a powerful spicy wine that’s still tight and mineral. Excellent length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)(The Meursault Charmes is of comparable quality but a touch more fruit-forward; Drink 2013-2020; 17.5 ponts; Bordeaux Index £435/case)
£465/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Great Western Wines, Somerset (01225 322 800)
Domaine Roulot, Les Luchets, Meursault 2009
Elegant citric nose, lifted and mineral. Fresh and delicate yet concentrated and has grip and minerality; deliciously pure fruit and good length. Drink 2012-2018. (17.5 points)
£450/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655)
Domaine Roulot, Charmes, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Rich heady nose, ripe citrus and pears. Very ripe, full-bodied, and concentrated, its purity of fruit backed by mineral undertow and impressive length. Drink 2013-2020. (18 points)
£850/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655)
Paul Pillot et Fils, La Romanee, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Reticent apple and apricot nose. Plump, concentrated, and suave, but also has considerable complexity and power; long nutty finish. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
£440-465/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet, la Garenne, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Firm apricot and apple nose, quite oak. Broad and weighty without being heavy-handed; concentrated, with lots of extract and a nutty finish, showing a welcome austerity that’s rare in 2009. Long. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
£444/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Louis Latour, Grand Cru, Chevalier-Montrachet 2009
Firm oaky nose, with lush apple and apricot fruit. Rich, suave, and juicy, concentrated and spicy, showing complexity and no excessive weight. Nutty oaky finish, with good length. Drink 2014-2024. (17.5 points)
£1718.19/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Louis Latour, London W1 (020 7409 7276)
Etienne Sauzet, Les Champs Canet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Sumptuous nose, quite oaky, lush without being overblown, with ripe citrus and apricot aromas. Juicy and full-bodied, but there’s an underlying acidic tang supporting fruit that is admirably ripe without being flabby. Excellent length. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
approx £510-630/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Glos (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102), Jeroboams (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Francois Mikulski, Meursault 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Closed nose. Firm and concentrated, tight and linear with no flab but ample vigour and bite, with a long mineral finish. Drink 2013-2018. (17 points)
£260-275/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Great Western Wines, Somerset (01225 322 800)
Louis Latour, les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Elegant, toasty, lifted nose, pear aromas. Very rich, full-bodied, and sumptuous, a concentrated, spicy wine with a stony and mineral finish. Good length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points) (Puligny-Montrachet Truffières similar if a touch lighter; 17.5 points; £400.92/case)
£460.77/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Louis Latour, London W1 (020 7409 7276)
Philippe Colin, les Demoiselles, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Subdued nose, with aromas of ripe grapefruit. Lean and fresh, but juicy too, with fine acidity; tangy, racy, and skeletal, this has fine potential and more to give. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
POA
Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Etienne Sauzet, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet 2009
Powerful, oily, oaky nose, pears. Very rich and full-bodied, generous and mouth-filling, its splendid fruit balanced by quite good acidity and length. Drink 2015-2022. (18 points)
approx £1280-1500/case (in bond)
Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Glos (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102), Jeroboams (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Jean-Noel Gagnard, les Caillerets, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Subdued lime nose. Firm on the palate, has grip and extract, with fine minerality; spicy, vigorous, and long. A classic style. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points)
£520-540/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Marc Colin, les Enseignieres, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Closed on the nose, but the palate is fresh and lively, juicy but compact, with marked earthy mineral tones, and quite good length. Drink 2012-2018. (17.5 points)
£260/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Martelet de Cherisey, la Genelotte, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru 2009
Reticent but oaky nose. Fine attack, concentrated, lean and limpid, very mineral with a grainy texture, distinct extract, and good length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£430/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Joseph Drouhin, Grand Cru, Corton-Charlemagne 2009
Rich but inexpressive nose. Broad, rich, and creamy, sumptuous but lacks some minerality and bite; but there’s ample extract and grip on the long finish, which bodes well. Drink 2014-2020. (17.5 points)
POA
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110)
Louis Jadot, les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Lean precise lemony nose. Concentrated and rich, juicy and spicy, while fine acidity gives some raciness, tang, and precision. Good length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£450-510/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110)
Domaine Remi Jobard, Bourgogne Blanc 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Fine spicy mineral nose, pears. Very ripe and juicy, a touch soft but has good concentration for Bourgogne, and a fresh lively finish. Drink 2011-2015. (16.5 points)
£123/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Louis Jadot, Genevrieres, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Lively nut-brittle and marzipan nose. Fresh, lean, and oaky, with fine acidity that gives it zip and persistence; long tangy finish with surprising sweetness of fruit. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£469/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110)
Louis Jadot, Grand Cru, Corton-Charlemagne 2009
Ripe lemony nose, Very rich, plump, and full-bodied, with typical power and mineral backbone, but ripe fruit dominates. Long. Drink 2015-2025. (17.5 points)
£795/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110)
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Grand Cru, Corton-Charlemagne 2009
Lush nose, with aroma of lime and green peas. Creamy and voluptuous, showing fine depth of fruit and a subtle underlying minerality; the palate combines fleshiness with stony extract and good length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£750-850/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069)
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet 2009
Closed nose, but weighty and imposing on the palate, rich and full-bodied; has fine depth of fruit but lacks a little vigour, though it’s spicy, mineral, and quite long. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£1239-1450/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Henri Darnat, les Champs Gains, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Firm nutty nose, still austere. Full-bodied and lacks a little bite though there is no lack of underlying acidity, giving a long tangy finish. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£395/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430)
Domaine Boyer-Martenot, les Narvaux, Meursault 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Sprightly and delicate mineral nose. Good attack, moderately concentrated and reasonably crisp, thanks to positive acidity. Not a great deal of personality but well balanced and quite long. Drink 2012-2018. (16.5 Points)
£215/case (in bond)
Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772)
Henri Germain, Charmes, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Opulent oaky nose. Rich, bold, and creamy on the palate, with ample concentration, but it also has verve, and a spicy, tangy finish. Drink 2012-2010. (17.5 points)
£384/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Maroslavac-Leger, les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Closed nose. Dense, concentrated, has grip and intensity, quite mineral and spicy, giving considerable complexity. Long bracing finish. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£345/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Vincent Dancer, les Corbins, Meursault 2009
Closed nose. Quite rich and concentrated, fleshy but not too soft, as it’s spicy, vigorous, and compact. Long. Drink 2012-2017. (17 points)
£240/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Vincent Dancer, les Perrieres, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Firm oaky pear nose. Very rich and voluptuous for Perrières, buit has texture, power, spice, and persistence. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£510/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Jean Chartron, Clos du Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Muted nose, oaky and stony. Full-bodied, creamy, and concentrated, with fine acidity that contributes to a very long, racy, and mineral finish. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
£500/case (in bond)
Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120)
Domaine Maroslavac-Leger, Les Corvees des Vignes, Puligny-Montraceht 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Muted appley nose. Fresh attack yet ripe and juicy; not flabby or heavy, but has typicity and vigour. Well balanced, lively, and quite long. Drink 2012-2016. (17 points)
£220/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Faiveley, la Garenne, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Very oaky nose. Rich and voluptuous for Puligny; a full-bodied, concentrated style, oaky and dense and quite complex. Good length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£379-423/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999)
Domaine Marc Colin, les Vide-Bourses, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Ripe pear nose. Full-bodied, spicy, and concentrated, with mineral bite and ample vigour. Complex, nutty, and long. Drink 2013-2020. (18 points)
£395/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Grand Cru, Criots-Batard-Montrachet 2009
Ripe, grassy, floral nose, with great charm. Quite rich and concentrated, but overall this is a discreet rather than flashy style, with admirable poise and persistence. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£840-890/case (in bond)
John Armit, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Clarion (020 8747 2069), Jeroboams (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Faiveley, Grand Cru, Corton-Charlemagne 2009
Dumb nose. Rich but bright and fresh; powerful and juicy if a touch neutral, and new oak less evident than in previous vintages. Quite long. Drink 2015-2024. (17.5 points)
££1000-1180/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Darviot-Perrin, les Charmes, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Sweet oaky apricot nose. A firm attack, with concentrated fruit, grip and texture, only moderate acidity but plenty of fruit and spice. Good length. Drink 2013-2018. (17.5 points)
£444-465/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Joseph Drouhin, Clos des Mouches, Beaune 1er Cru 2009
Spicy oaky nose, vigorous and nutty. Full-bodied, compact, and elegant; concentrated, but also lifted and stylish. Well balanced and long. Classic. Drink 2012-2020. (17.5 points)
£540-594/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Follin-Arbelet, Grand Cru, Corton-Charlemagne 2009
Firm mineral nose. Dense and concentrated, but also spicy and vigorous, with plenty of extract. Not very expressive now but has good length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£695/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Jean-Noel Gagnard, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet 2009
Closed nose. Fresh attack, powerful and compact, almost earthy, with a lot of extract and grip, and exemplary length. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
£1490-1500/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Grand Cru, Chevalier-Montrachet 2009
Firm reticent oaky nose. Creamy and full-bodied, juicy yet very concentrated; fine fruit and acidity creep up on the palate, giving some bite on the long finish. Drink 2015-2015. (18 points)
£1440-1695/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069)
Domaine Bachelet-Monnot, les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Firm oaky nose, with Puligny lift and typicity. Good attack, fresh, lean, and crisp, a tight style with good acidity and length. Drink 2012-2020. (17.5 points)
£470/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Jean Chartron, Grand Cru, Corton-Charlemagne 2009
Lean precise citric nose. Very concentrated, with good acidity, fresh and zesty, tight and vibrant yet has a suave texture. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£760/case (in bond)
Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120)
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot, la Garenne, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Subdued mineral nose. Full-bodied and juicy, but also quite mineral and spicy, with good concentration, vigour, and complexity. Long stony finish. Drink 2013-2022. (17.5 points)
£495/case (in bond) John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Blain-Gagnard, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Firm oaky nose, robust but rather closed. Rich and broad, but has ample spice and concentration too; fine acidity keeps it vigorous, complex, and long. A fine grand cru at a fair price. Drink 2014-2020. (18 points)
£750-880/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102)
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Perrieres, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Rich, leesy, appley nose. Full-bodied and concentrated, with admirable weight and power, though good acidity balances the wine and gives it length. Drink 2013-2010. (17.5 points)
£460-498/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069)
Domaine Buisson-Charles, Goutte d’Or, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Lively appley nose, with hints of tropical fruit, has charm. Quite rich and concentrated, spicy, showing intensity and poise; has good acidity, and a long, lively white-pepper finish. Drink 2012-2020. (17.5 points)
£430/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737)
Domaine Bruno Colin, Blanchot Dessus, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Dense oaky nutty nose. Tight and imposing, this concentrated and individual wine shows a nutty, tangy minerality. Quite long. Drink 2013-2022. (17.5 points)
£340/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Patrick Javillier, Grand Cru, Corton-Charlemagne 2009
Powerful but discreet lime nose. Rich, broad, and fleshy, but also has power and minerality, with grip and solidity rather than dynamic acidity. But no lack of grip and length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
approx £740-790/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, SW1 (0870 900 4300), Goedhuis, SW8 (020 7793 7900), Jeroboams (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb, SE1 (020 7234 0385), Private Cellar, Camb (01353 721999)
Domaine Vincent et Francois Jouard, les Chaumees, Clos de la Truffiere, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Lively spicy nose. Juicy, opulent, and concentrated, with ample depth of flavour and citric acidity. Long, solid, fruity finish. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£290/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772)
Domaine Remi Jobard, Les Chevaliers, Meursault 2009
Vigorous, spicy, assertive nose, lime aromas. Rich and full-bodied, generous but not overblown, spicy and tangy yet quite powerful. Good length. Drink 2012-2018. (17-17.5 points)
£309/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Jean-Philippe Fichet, les Referts, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Reticent nose, apple and lime. Fresh attack, tight and precise, lively and compact, structured but also shows zest and a long, tangy, mineral finish. Drink 2014-2020. (17.5 points)
£495-510/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Marc Colin, les Champs Gain, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Ripe appley nose. A fresh attack leads into a palate that’s compact and firm, with both grip and finesse. Quite long. Drink 2012-2018. (17.5 points)
£395/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Paul Pillot et Fils, les Caillerets, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Muted stony nose. Fresh, assertive and tight, with quite good acidity, ample grip and finesse, and a chewy mineral finish. 2013-2022. (17.5 points)
£350-365/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Patrick Javillier, Cuvee des Forgets, Bourgogne Blanc 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Light apple and apricot nose, floral and perfumed. Quite rich, supple and juicy. Straightforward and has immediate appeal, but only moderate acidity and length. Drink 2011-2014. (16.5 points)
£118-135/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999)
Vincent et Sophie Morey. les Caillerets, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Firm toasty nose. Full-bodied, and silky, with lavish fruit and discreet oak. Stylish and long. Drink 2013-2018. (17 points)
£445/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060)
Domaine Pierre Morey, Les Tessons, Meursault 2009
Tangy oaky nose. Rich, creamy, and voluptuous, but shows ample concentration, extract, and nuttiness; quite good acidity and length. Drink 2012-2018. (17.5 points)
£480/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Darviot-Perrin, les Genevrieres, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Broad appley nose. Sumptuous, creamy, and concentrated, with ample mineral bite, and an assertive, almost austere finish. Long. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£444-520/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Colin-Deleger, Grand Cru, Chevalier-Montrachet 2009
Sweet oaky nose, very ripe. Rich, plump, and concentrated, almost earthy; this has weight, power and grip, and a long, nutty, stony finish. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
approx. £1500/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Vincent et Sophie Morey, les Baudines, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Muted oaky nose. Creamy and spicy on the palate, with good acidity and a mineral tang, giving a stylish and perky finish. Drink 2013-2018. (17 points)
£310/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060)
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet 2009
Rich and formidable nose, scented with lime and apricot. Full-bodied, spicy, and very concentrated, with fine extract as well as richness and weight. Vigorous and long. Drink 2015-2025. (18 points)
£990-1050/case (in bond)
Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Roulot, Bourgogne Blanc 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Spicy, oaky, vigorous nose, classic. Fresh, with a fine attack, forthright and delicious fruit, and fine acidity to give a long finish. Not profound or structured, but a superb Bourgogne. Drink 2011-2015. (17.5 points)
£138.50-144/case (in bond)
Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Marc Colin, Sur le Sentier du Clou, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Muted lime and pear nose. Fresh and juicy, but has a lively attack and fair acidity; compact, quite mineral and has a lively persistent finish. Drink 2012-2016. (17 points)
£210/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Henri Darnat, Puligny-Montrachet 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Closed nose. Rich, full-bodied, and assertive, spicy and mineral, with tremendous zest and nuttiness. A classic style. Long. Drink 2013-2018. (17.5 points)
£265/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430)
Domaine Remi Jobard, Les Poruzots-Dessus, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
Lean piquant citric nose, with pungent lime aromas. Rich, full-bodied, and concentrated, but firm extract gives plenty of grip; assertive and tight, with good acidity and fine potential. Drink 2012-2022. (17.5 points)
£393/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Blain-Gagnard, la Boudriotte, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Lean spicy pear nose; rich, firm, grainy and almost earthy on the palate, with good concentration and richness. Spicy, vigorous, and long. Drink 2012-2018. (17.5 points)
£295.50/case (in bond)
Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102)
Jean-Philippe Fichet, Le Tesson, Meursault 2009
Firm pear and citrus nose. Rich and concentrated, very ripe and succulent, but has moderate acidity and a light mineral finish. Drink 2013-2018. (17 points)
£365-375/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Roulot, Les Tillots, Meursault 2009
Oaky nose scented with lime, has great charm. Fresh attack, but juicy and supple as well as concentrated, with fine acidity; well balanced, stylish, and impeccable. Drink 2012-2018. (17.5 points)
£380/case (in bond)
Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102)
Domaine de Montille, Le Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2009
Muted oaky nose. Full-bodied and weighty, with splendid fruit and considerable extract and power, yet has finesse and length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
approx £690-756/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Written by Stephen Brook
