Many seem very happy with 2009 (writes Rosemary George MW), but it does lack acidity compared to 2008. As Didier Séguier, the talented winemaker at Domaine William Fèvre, explained, there had been a bit of millerandage in 2009, thanks to cool weather at flowering, so yields were lower than average, and the harvest was relatively early following a warm summer. It was a question of picking early to retain acidity. The grapes were very healthy and unaffected by rot or rain, and a couple of summer storms had provided water at the right moment. Amongst the full range of William Fèvre, Vaulorent ler Cru was the star to my mind. At Domaine Simonnet-Febvre, winemaker Archimbaud approach has gradually evolved towards less oak ageing and longer time in vat and barrel before bottling. The premiers crus are aged in vat alone. Flint Wines made available a pair of Chablis from Domaine Bernard Defaix; Howard Ripley, a selection of Chablis from Jean-Paul Droin, Louis Michel and more William Fèvre, while Domaine Vincent Dampt came courtesy of Corney & Barrow.Chablis. At Justerini & Brooks, I caught up with domaines Laurent Tribut and Moreau-Naudet (J&B will have Vincent Dauvissat in due course). Brother-in-law and ‘pupil’ of Vincent Dauvissat, Laurent Tribut has turned out finely crafted wines with just the right amount of oak élevage. Then on to Lea & Sandeman who were showing Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin, but who will also have Moreau-Naudet and Denis Pommier.
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Written by Decanter
