Dream destination: Hotel La Vigne Hakuba by Onko Chishin in Nagano, Japan

Think of the Japanese drinks scene, and it’s almost certainly sake – perhaps shochu, maybe even beer – that comes to mind.

But from the southern tip of main island Honshu, through the undulating hills of Yamanashi at the foot of Mount Fuji, to the fertile river valleys of northern island Hokkaido, a vinous revolution has quietly been taking place.

The country is now home to nearly 500 wineries, with the number in rapid growth. Meanwhile, with more than 1,000 Japanese bottles in its cellar – including a label produced by its esteemed in-house sommelier, Hiroyuki Yoshida, Hotel La Vigne in Hakuba is arguably the very best place to try them.

Uncovering Japan’s wine culture

Hakuba, a prominent ski resort in the 1998 Winter Olympics prefecture of Nagano, some 270km and 3.5 hours by bullet train and bus from Tokyo, might not seem the obvious place for a wine hotel.

That is, until you learn that Nagano is home to five distinct wine regions and around 70 wineries, with locally praised set-ups such as Kido and Votano.

And, what’s more, a wealth of other local produce - apple-fed wagyu beef, buckwheat for soba noodles, mushrooms - that supports the developing wine scene in the hands of the right chef.

Over a dinner at Fudo, La Vigne hotel’s contemporary restaurant on the ground floor and focal point of the wine experience, Yoshida matches dishes from the refined French-inflected tasting menu – for example, pan-seared fish with mountain vegetable risotto and black truffle – or live cookery teppanyaki with a parade of exclusively Japanese wines.

From traditional brut sparkling originating in Yamanashi to zingy Nagano Sauvignon Blanc, Yamagata Cabernet Sauvignon to Hokkaido Pinot Noir – and of course regional expressions of Koshu, Japan’s own native grape – it’s a story of discovery and education as well as pleasure.

Essential to any experience is a sampling of the crisp and aromatic Cuvée Yoshida, a limited release crafted by Hiroyuki himself using 100% Chardonnay grapes grown in nearby Takayama Village and fermented in stainless steel. On our visit, it was fresh and delicately rippled with minerality.

A base for exploration

While the restaurant, combined with Yoshida’s collection, creates an undeniable centre to La Vigne, it’s not your sole dining option.

The 38 sleek and stylish rooms provide a gateway to the dramatic Japanese Alps that allows for longer stays, with kitchenettes for self-catering, should you desire - as well as laundry facilities for freshening up ski or hiking gear.

Grounded with warm woods, taupe fabrics and sliding doors that evoke the tradition of Japanese shoji paper panels, bedrooms have floor-to-ceiling windows and balconies that open up to majestic panoramas of the snow-capped Alps, speckled with ski runs and the nearby Olympic ski-jumping stadium.

Some rooms even come with bathtubs overlooking the scene, perfect for soaking in while savouring the fragrant La Vigne own-brand amenities, infused with essential oils extracted from grapes.

Depending on when you visit your agenda will look radically different – likely skiing in winter, hiking or biking in summer – but regardless of time of year Yoshida can arrange visits to his favourite local wineries, which include Obuse, producers of his own cuvée and known for their low-intervention approach, or Villa D’Est.

In the lobby, another contemporary interpretation of Japanese design with a lattice-designed ceiling, elaborate wood art pieces from Nagano artist Moe Ando, and ‘walnut glass’ pendant lights made using burnt nut shells in nearby Tomi City, friendly staff await to help with all other requests.

They’ll provide you with discounted tickets and free transfers to visit nearby Hakuba Iwatake Mountain Resort in summertime, for example, as well as book transfers to the local train or bus station.

They can also book you for the hotel’s regular special wine events, which may include producer dinners or, at the time of our visit, the chance to bottle your own local wine from barrel.

Stays at La Vigne and visits to Japanese wine regions can be arranged through Inside Japan Tours.

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