A true heavyweight of the European wine scene, Spain has long been the go-to destination for bold reds and characterful whites made in a reassuringly classic style.
From Rioja to Albariño, Spain provides well-known names on wine lists around the world. Scratch the surface, however, and you’ll find varied and dynamic winemaking – both in classic regions and those that are less well-known.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 18 top new Spanish wines
Spain’s current winemaking trends
Modern Spain’s cultural portfolio stretches from food and football to art and architecture; this is a culture where innovation and excitement rub shoulders with the traditional and time-honoured.
Wine, of course, plays its part here and there’s a new wave of Spanish winemakers whose wines are pushing the boundaries with tremendous results.
This transformation has manifested itself in a number of key trends. These include the use of lesser known – or less fashionable – grape varieties, experiments with international and indigenous grape blends, the use of old vines in single parcel wines or eschewing new oak.
This last one is important because many Spanish winemakers are keen to enunciate how and why they are using less new oak. Instead they focus on what alternatives – such as neutral oak, or increasingly, inert vessels such as concrete, steel and amphora – can bring to the wine.
Where are the movers and shakers?
In the case of one of Spain’s most famous exports Rioja – a wine traditionally characterised and identified by its oak flavour – many producers are now dialling down the oak character and allowing the fruit to shine.
In some cases no oak is used at all, giving the resulting wines an almost Beaujolais Cru-like character. See the MacRobert & Canals Rioja below.
It’s not just in Rioja where this shift is occurring. Take Txakoli from the Basque Country in northern Spain. Today while the majority of wines here are being made in a traditional style – showcasing the Hondarrabi Zuri grape in all its racy, mineral glory – a few producers are taking things in a different direction.
They’re choosing to draw out honey and tropical fruit characters in their wines, with interesting results.
On the path of rediscovery
These sideways moves by winemakers aiming for something different – and arguably something more modern – are fascinating to see and, of course, to taste.
While some are inspired by winemaking trends outside of Spain, it’s worth noting that in many cases winemakers are not discovering anything new.
Instead they are rediscovering the traditional grapes of the region, reviving old vines and old winemaking practices.
In fact, often it is the wine drinkers who are making new discoveries: unknown regions, unfamiliar grape varieties or styles of wine they haven’t tried before.
However these discoveries are made, Spain is an exciting place at the moment.
Best new Spanish wines to try:
Wines shown in order by style and score
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Spain’s indigenous whites
Bodegas Nestares Eguizábal, A Veredas Blanco, Rioja, Oriental, Rioja, Spain, 2017
93
From a family-owned winery in Galilea in Rioja Oriental comes this leftfield co-fermented Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay. It’s fermented in American and French oak barrels with regular battonage before eight months maturation in barrel. It offers a delightful straw yellow hue which gives a clue to its predominant characters; ripe tropical fruit, iced tea and manuka honey. There’s a delicate rose petal note on the nose too and a medicinal hint on the finish.
2017
Bodegas Nestares EguizábalRioja
Struggling Vines, Phinca Hapa Blanco, Rioja, Rioja, Spain, 2018
93
This heady and amber-hued blend of Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Malvasia is oxidative and bright with orange peel and nectarine notes on the nose. In the mouth it really stretches out its limbs with lime, burnt orange and dried pineapple all coming together before a smack of the sea salt and citrus acidity rounds things off nicely.
2018
Struggling VinesRioja
Bodega Gorosti, Flysch, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
92
While many Txakolis shine because of their linear acidity and mineral edge, this one goes in the opposite direction and is a joy as a result. It’s fleshy and tropical with nectarine on the nose along with poached pear and beeswax. Honey, apricot and salt complete the picture across a palate which fully awakens your taste buds.
2019
Bodega GorostiTxakolí
Herència Altés, Benufet Blanca, Terra Alta, Catalonia, Spain, 2019
92
A bright, enticing Garnacha Blanca grown on calcareous/clay soils in the Terra Alta. The juice is fermented in concrete barrels and receives two months of battonage which adds a fine-grained bite and some lees complexity. Water white in colour – almost like a Japanese Koshu – there’s sweetness of fruit (white peach, lychee), a lick of wet stone and a rich weight in the mouth.
2019
Herència AltésTerra Alta
Txomin Etxaniz, Blanco, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2020
92
Made in the classic style, this blend of the two main Txakoli grapes – 85% Hondarrabi Zuri, 15% Hondarrabi Beltza – is fresh and lean with a spiky acidity punctuated by green apples, lime and a fizz of sherbet lemons. There’s a delightful tingle of petillance which sets it off nicely and introduces a slight mineral note on the finish. It cries out for oysters.
2020
Txomin EtxanizTxakolí
Bodegas Viñátigo, Gual, Tenerife, Spain, 2020
91
Spain’s island wines are becoming more popular and with this rich, multidimensional white from Tenerife you can see why. It’s 100% Gual (better known as Bual) and is buttery and textured. Fermented in steel and concrete egg, it shows a raft of tropical characters, including mango and guava, as well as straw, smoke and green tea. Laser-focused acidity pins it all together.
2020
Bodegas Viñátigo
Pazo do Mar, Expression Treixadura, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain, 2020
91
Local to the Ribeiro region the Treixadura grape is aromatic, offering floral and orchard fruit notes on the nose. The vines are planted at 150m above sea level and while the fruit is ripe and shows generous sunshine in its weight and texture there’s a keen lick of acidity here too. This lemon tang elevates the aromatics making for a racy yet rich wine. Delicious.
2020
Pazo do MarRibeiro
Lalomba, Finca Lalinde Rosado, Rioja, Oriental, Rioja, Spain, 2020
92
Lalomba is Ramon Bilbao’s offshoot project based in Haro right next to the Bilbao stable. The first ever Lalomba wine was this rosado, now in its sixth year of production. The 2020 is made from single estate Garnacha and Viura from the Finca Lalinde vineyard, planted in 1976. Co-fermented in concrete it’s orange-pink with floral and crunchy red fruit characters and a savoury bite. Refreshingly bone dry.
2020
LalombaRioja
Izadi, Larrosa Rosado, Rioja, Alavesa, Rioja, Spain, 2020
90
This 100% Garnacha rosado comes from old vines grown on some of Rioja's highest vineyards at 790m above sea level. It’s salmon pink in colour and shimmers in the glass. Grippy, fresh and full, there’s watermelon and pomegranate on the nose and a red cherry tang on the mid-palate which delights with a nice balance between fruit and acid. Richer than Provence pinks and more interesting for it.
2020
IzadiRioja
Alta Pavina, Citius Pinot Noir, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2017
94
A ripe but grippy Pinot from Castilla y León that wears its raspberry, redcurrant and red liquorice notes on its sleeve, but there’s a reassuring savoury flipside too. On the mid-palate the punchy fruit is complemented by white pepper and mushroom and light, dancing tannins. A world-class Pinot Noir.
2017
Alta Pavina
Dominio Fournier, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2014
94
A benchmark Ribera del Duero but made in a refreshingly fruit-forward style. Juicy and full with black fruit, smoke and tongue-roughing tannins. The clever use of oak smooths off the tannins and adds a slight creaminess to the palate. Would definitely benefit from food; hard cheeses, steak.
2014
Dominio FournierRibera del Duero
Finca Museum, La Renacida, Cigales, Spain, 2019
93
This field blend is quite a mouthful, and that’s before the wine meets the lips. It comprises 35% Tempranillo, 20% Albillo Mayor, 20% Garnacha, 15% Verdejo, 5% Garnacha Blanca, 3% Bobal and 2% Mencia, all co-fermented and aged in oak foudres. The fruit comes from a small 2.9ha vineyard in the Cigales Appellation, planted in 1927. The wine itself is delicate and perfumed with cranberry and red cherry fruit, creamy spice, and a hint of wet earth. Lush, smooth finish.
2019
Finca Museum
Macrobert & Canals, Laventura Lanave, Rioja, Rioja, Spain, 2018
93
South African Bryan MacRobert is behind the Laventura wines which he makes in a small cellar in Logroño from small parcels of old vine fruit. The Garnacha (90%) and Tempranillo (10%) for this bright, unoaked Rioja comes from dry-farmed vineyards across Rioja's trio of sub-regions. It’s a striking red colour with ripe redcurrant and raspberry fruit on the nose. There’s a touch of black pepper spice on the palate and a sophisticated juicy finish. A very modern Rioja.
2018
Macrobert & CanalsRioja
Losada Vinos de Finca, Altos de Losada Mencia, Bierzo, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2018
92
The thick-skinned Mencía grape can produce butch, heavy wines but here it’s showcased in all its floral, red-fruited glory. A light-footed approach draws out the strawberry jam and blueberry characters, which are nicely off-set by toasty oak and a smidge of set honey on the finish. Refreshing and approachable.
2018
Losada Vinos de FincaBierzo
Buen Camino, Guademeya, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2015
91
A complex nose of coffee, toffee and black fruit. Black pepper arrives on the palate too along with wild berries, ripe plums, pencil shavings and mouth-drying tannins. This has its savoury side turned all the way up. The finish is brushed with burnt toffee. Spends 500 days in new French oak and three years in bottle before release.
2015
Buen CaminoRibera del Duero
Cillar de Silos, Torresilo, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2017
91
A silky and ethereal Tempranillo with immediate forest floor notes on the nose plus a dash of pepper spice. The black pepper really kicks in on the palate, which is rich, long and punctuated by cassis, cherry drops and wood smoke. Wears its 14.5% alcohol well.
2017
Cillar de SilosRibera del Duero
Finca Villacreces, Pruno, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2018
91
Inky in colour with bags of spice, black liquorice and ripe fruits jumping from the glass this ‘second wine’ from Finca Villacreces is made for early drinking, unlike the winery's flagship Ribera del Duero. It’s primarily Tempranillo with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and is delicious at three years old. Rounded and supple with woodsmoke and a savoury bacon fat character holding down all that sweet fruit.
2018
Finca VillacrecesRibera del Duero
Bodegas Pradorey, Prado Rey Finca La Mina, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2016
90
This single vineyard blend is 95% Tempranillo studded with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It’s grown on sandy-loam soils at 820m above sea level and exudes sophistication from its nose of dark chocolate and bitter cherry to the blackcurrant and dark plum fruit notes on the palate. There’s cedar wood too and an interesting tomato leaf character. Will age nicely over the coming years.
2016
Bodegas PradoreyRibera del Duero