Aldo Fiordelli: My top wines of 2022

Of all the wines I tasted in 2022, I focused and reflected a lot on the strong identity of small appellations which are becoming ever more precise, consistent, and detailed – an eye-opening exercise.

Overall, the 2019 releases last year were positive across the board although they were particularly great from Bolgheri, the SuperTuscans and Barbaresco.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top wines of 2022

Tuscany

Inspired in part by the great cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti’s new book on Chianti Classico, I spent time visiting a lot of wineries in the region and discovered the elegant, layered savouriness of Montefioralle within Chianti Classico, one of the smallest UGAs based entirely on limestone ‘alberese’ soils which lend a special, graceful structure to the Sangiovese grown there.

I was impressed last February by the early refinement of Sassicaia 2019. I initially awarded it 100 points but it typically closes down a bit during the following spring and so when I re-tasted it in June 2022, I awarded it 98 points. It’s sure to become a classic with age, however.

I must confess my personal preference for Ornellaia when the blend tends towards a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon, like it did in 2019. Its stable-mate Masseto is undoubtedly a terroir-driven wine, and the addition of 10% Cabernet Franc for the first time in 2019 gives broader shoulders as well as a pinch of freshness that will be welcome in future vintages.

It was a great year for the amazing 2019s from Flaccianello della Pieve, Pergole Torte, Tenuta di Trinoro, Tignanello and Galatrona from Petrolo, plus the 2018 release of Ricasoli’s Casalferro. Despite the fact that I’m not an Italian Merlot lover, they are among the greatest SuperTuscans I tasted in 2022.

As for Brunello di Montalcino, I would certainly bet on ageing the 2017s rather than the 2018s, despite my personal preference for this lighter and more elegant vintage.

Finally, I would like to underline the impressive consistency of Bolgheri estate, Grattamacco. As well as tasting the new 2019 release as part of my Bolgheri report, I also tasted an amazing 1998.

Piedmont

Suprisingly, several examples of Langhe Nebbiolo proved better than Barolo in 2022 due to the comparison of the latest 2019 and 2020 vintages of the former versus the new 2018 vintage of the latter.

Meanwhile, the elegance of Barbaresco Asili in the 2019 vintage was complemented by a higher concentration in the grapes, while cooler expressions such as Ovello – often too austere in the leaner vintages – shone with a refined structure for ageing. The first Barbaresco released by the Serralunga-based estate, Massolino – ‘Albesani’ – was most likely the best example that I tasted from this appellation in 2022.

My visit to Luca Roagna was also very inspiring, thanks to his detailed style and the remarkable complexity and depth of his multi-faceted wines.

Lombardy

In 2022 I rediscovered the blend made in the vineyards for producing Buttafuoco Storico, a muscley red wine from Oltrepo’ Pavese.

I also noted the increasingly strong identity of Franciacorta, which is defining itself more and more in its details, standing out from other sparkling wines and even pursuing comparisons with Champagne.

Whites

I can’t ignore the quality of Italy’s high-end white wines: Terlano’s Rarity, Frescobaldi’s Gorgona project, San Paolo’s Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva, Montepepe’s Grand Vintage (a blend of Vermentino and Viognier from beneath the Apuan Alps), Querciabella’s Batàr…and also some great Chardonnays such as Ricasoli’s Torricella, Petrolo’s Boggina, and Nibbio, the new flagship label of Antinori’s Castello della Sala estate.

Aldo’s top wines of 2022

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