The 1972 vintage for Sassicaia was the year of its international success. Fifty years on, the 2019 vintage is proving to be another important year for the consistency of one of Italy’s greatest wines.
This fabled wine has cemented a reliable approach to viticulture and winemaking for the estate and for the Incisa family.
It follows on from the delicious 2018, where there was no lack of concentration; the hot and dry 2017, where the legendary freshness of Sassicaia was unmistakable if even more distinctive than usual; the outstanding 2016, to which this 2019 is akin; the 2015, which was successfully received by the critics; and even after the leaner and ready-to-drink-now 2014, which was authentic in its own way considering the vintage.
We could even go back further: 1968 was the first vintage released by the estate, although Mario Incisa della Rocchetta had been experimenting since 1948. At that time, ‘la Sassicaia’ hosted several different grape varieties including, for example, 3,000 Canaiolo vines. The Marchese decided to plant as far from the coast as possible to avoid any remnants of briny character in the wines.
He opted for Cabernet Sauvignon, inspired by the 1924 Château Margaux. The pebbles of the Sassicaia vineyards were deemed perfect for planting wine grapes. Their southeast exposure was once blamed for the introverted character of the wine upon release, but today it plays a special role in the fresh style of this Bolgheri red.
One of the best-kept secrets of Sassicaia is the so-called ‘Cabernet Castiglioncello’ – the Cabernet Sauvignon planted in the east- to southeast-facing Vigna di Castiglioncello at 330 metres above sea level has adapted to its altitude and exposition, producing large leaves typical of the variety with small clusters rich in grapes.
Carlo Paoli, MD of the estate, attributes the success of Sassicaia 2019 to the fact that ‘we were able to wait to harvest as the climate in September was good, with moderate temperatures and a great diurnal range between night and day. The phenolic and sugar ripeness coincided at the time of picking but we did a severe selection between the exceptional grapes from the hills of Castiglioncello and Il Quercione and the flatter vineyards. For the same reason, the Cabernet Franc is slightly lower than usual within the blend’.
The 2019 shows Sassicaia’s signature freshness with a graceful and complex nose but what impressed me most of all is the wine’s woven structure with elegant, tense and savoury density preserving its cedar and fruit character through the finish. Sassicaia 2019 has the balance to be drunk tomorrow as well as in 30 years.
The picking dates (1 September for the Cabernet Franc, 12 September for the Cabernet Sauvignon) were similar to 2008 and 2016. The percentage of Cabernet Franc is a bit lower than usual due to a severe selection of the grapes, and production is 13% less than the average, at 255,000 bottles (+4% compared to 2018 but -19% compared to 2016).
Sssicaia 2019 is released today, 17th February, and is available in the UK by allocation only from Armit Wines for £165.83 in bond.
First taste: Sassicaia 2019
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