Te Mata Coleraine wines
Te Mata Coleraine set a new standard in New Zealand.
(Image credit: Chris McLennan / Alamy)

Bob Campbell MW was one of the lucky few to attend a 32-vintage tasting of Coleraine recently - twice! Read his report below, including ratings and tasting notes on his top 15 vintages of this New Zealand pioneer...

Te Mata’s Coleraine is arguably New Zealand’s most prestigious wine.

In 1982, as the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes were being harvested for Coleraine’s first vintage, there was a general feeling among winemakers and wine drinkers alike that, while New Zealand might make decent white wines, the climate was simply too cool to produce good red wine.

That all changed when Coleraine hit the market.


Scroll down to see Bob’s top 15 picks from the historical vertical


No one, with the obvious exception of founder John Buck, had dreamed that such a wine could be made from New Zealand grapes.An inky red with intense, ripe cassis and cedar flavours, it demonstrated what could be achieved through careful site selection and restrained cropping levels.

Coleraine did for Hawke’s Bay Bordeaux blends what Cloudy Bay later did for Marlborough Sauvignon, dramatically raising the bar for red wine in New Zealand.

The tasting

Air New Zealand, the country’s national airline, is an active supporter of New Zealand wine. They recently purchased four complete sets of Te Mata Coleraine and subsequently opened them at tastings in Melbourne, Sydney, Auckland, and at the Te Mata estate in Hawke’s Bay.

I was fortunate enough to attend two of these tastings, in Auckland and Hawke’s Bay. Each tasting featured 32 wines, ranging from 1982 to 2016 (Coleraine was not produced in 1992, 1993 or 2012).

The second set, tasted in Hawke’s Bay, was clearly in better condition than the first. Fill levels suggested that the wines from the second set had benefitted from better storage. Wines in the second set (but not the first) had been opened, tasted and topped up or replaced by Te Mata winemaker, Peter Cowley. My tasting comments are based on wines from the second set.

My top three wines, for rather different reasons, were from the 1982, 1998 and 2014 vintages. The least attractive wines were 1984, 1988 and 2011, all from challenging vintages in Hawke’s Bay.

When to drink

For current drinking I would be happy to open any vintage prior to 2013. With careful storage and a good cork, Coleraine will survive for three decades or more. My optimum window is from 10 to 20 years.


Continue reading below


Te Mata Coleraine: Factbox

First vintage 1982

Vineyards A selection from a total of 45ha of estate vineyards from the Havelock Hills and Heretaunga Plains, Hawke’s Bay

Soil types Coleraine’s core is always off the Havelock Hills, with windblown loess soils over volcanic silica on a sandstone base. Additional contributions come from sites on the Heretaunga plains. These have ‘red metal’ soils – a sandy loam layer high in iron over deep gravels.

Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc

Annual production 60,000 bottles


More on Te Mata

Written by Andy Howard MW for a Decanter.com article originally published in October 2016

Located in the Hawkes Bay area, on the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island, the Te Mata estate today comprises the original historical plantings in the Havelock Hills and, in addition, the Woodthorpe Terraces to the east of Napier and the Bridge Pa Triangle – one of the warmest sites in the Hawkes Bay.

Coleraine, a classic Bordeaux style red, has been the estate’s top wine since it was first produced in 1982.

At its inception, Coleraine honoured classed growth Bordeaux with a blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, supported by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Extensive maturation in new French oak, great finesse and the ability to age are all hallmarks of this wine.

My early recollection of Coleraine was of the 1989 vintage – a wine that had all the traditional classed growth Bordeaux structure but with an extra hint of new world ripeness and purity that was often missing in the Haut-Medoc equivalents.

Indeed, Nick Buck confirmed that the original intention had been to mirror the top cru classés, but that today Coleraine has evolved its own style.


Bob’s top 15 wines from the Te Mata Coleraine tasting:


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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 1982

My wines
Locked score

I have tasted this single-vineyard wine a number of times since its first release, and its vigour and energy never fails to impress. The weather...

1982

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 1990

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Locked score

An unusually warm vintage with normal rainfall produced ripe, concentrated flavours and supple tannins. This is a concentrated and complex wine with a slightly chunky...

1990

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 1991

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Locked score

1991 was a stand-out vintage in every New Zealand wine region. A hot December with early flowering and long, settled weather was followed by quite...

1991

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 1996

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The vintage started well with warm, dry weather from budburst to flowering but had double the average rainfall in January, with less in February, March...

1996

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 1997

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Locked score

A warm, humid February and most of March encouraged bunch-thinning and leaf-plucking to stave off the risk of disease, but a late spell of warm,...

1997

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 1998

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A drought season in Hawke’s Bay, with a large crop that needed to be bunch-thinned. All the grapes were in top condition but needed careful...

1998

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2000

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94

A season characterised by very dry weather and small berries that gave the wine unusual intensity, with good ripening temperatures without the extreme heat of the previous two vintages. This wine is robust and quite youthful, with ripe blackberry, plum, floral violet and spicy oak flavours together with a thread of chalky, mineral character. A very appealing wine in a clear new world style. Probably as good as it gets now.

2000

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2002

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The second longest harvest in Te Mata’s history, lasting seven weeks. A high quality but unusual vintage, a damp December and January were followed by...

2002

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2005

My wines

95

2005 was an exceptional vintage with three months of hot, dry weather, with rain on 17 March which delayed picking for one week. It yielded the smallest berries on record and Te Mata’s longest harvest to date. The wine is rich, ripe and concentrated, with berry and plum flavours accompanied by an appealing floral violet lift. Merlot is the dominant variety for a change, but the wine clearly shows cedar and cassis Cabernet characters. A complex, elegant red.

2005

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2009

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The hottest vintage - and the second driest - for a decade. It was an easy vintage without pressure thanks to a lengthy period of...

2009

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2010

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2010 is a highly rated Hawke’s Bay vintage. Budburst was two weeks earlier than usual thanks to warm, dry weather in August and September. A...

2010

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2013

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Hailed as the best Hawke’s Bay vintage in 30 years, drought conditions with warm days and cool-ish nights produced very ripe grapes with fresh acidity...

2013

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2014

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96

2013 was a hard act to follow and yet this warm, dry season has produced wines of similar concentration, and more structure, than the earlier harvest. If 2013 is a classic new world style then 2014 leans toward the more savoury, elegant and perfumed Bordeaux model - an example of elegance on a grand scale. It's a heady mix of ripe berry fruits, fresh herbs and floral characters. A stylish, concentrated wine with great potential.

2014

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2015

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The oak is a little obvious on both nose and palate now, but there is plenty of concentration and depth to the dark-fruit character. Rich...

2015

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Te Mata, Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2016

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Probably New Zealand’s most ageworthy red. Set up by the Buck family in 1974, today Nick Buck maintains its tradition of precision Bordeaux-style winemaking. With...

2016

Hawke's BayNew Zealand

Te Mata

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Bob Campbell MW
Decanter Magazine, Wine Writer & New Zealand Expert

Bob Campbell MW is wine editor of Taste magazine and Air New Zealand’s in-flight magazine KiaOra. He is New Zealand editor for Gourmet Traveller Wine and has written for wine publications in seven countries. Nearly 23,000 people have attended Campbell’s wine certificate courses, which he runs in New Zealand, Asia and Europe. He is chairman of the New Zealand International Wine Show, and has been a senior judge in wine competitions in 10 countries.