Bordeaux: Building the future

Visitors to Bordeaux in recent years won’t have missed the proliferation of sleek, modern cellars transforming the region’s landscape. From Château Lynch-Bages’ sprawling 11,000m² glass-clad winery in Pauillac to Château Bélair-Monange’s monolithic concrete structure in St-Emilion, a wave of investment has reshaped the region’s winemaking infrastructure over the past two decades. [subscriber-content] Going the extra mile [caption id="attachment_560330" align="alignnone" width="600"] Château Branaire-Ducru. Credit: Brice Braastad[/caption] This cellar renaissance, driven by a mix of economic prosperity, technological advancements and a competitive global wine market, reflects Bordeaux’s commitment to precision, sustainability and elevated quality. The result is a new era of winemaking facilities that not only produce exceptional wines but also frequently serve as both architectural landmarks and tourist destinations. The roots of Bordeaux’s cellar boom go back to the late 20th century. The 1990s saw a surge in global demand for fine wines, fuelled by economic growth and the rise of new markets in Asia and North America. The ‘garage wine’ movement , pioneered by small-scale producers such as Château Valandraud (first vintage 1991), emphasised low yields, microvinification and the use of new oak barrels , all of which challenged traditional practices and influenced larger estates. Subsequent successful vintages, particularly in 2000 , 2005 and 2009 , generated significant revenue, enabling châteaux to invest in modernisation. It was an era of corporate acquisitions, as capital further poured into the region from French insurance and luxury goods companies, US-based investment concerns and other sources. As the 2000s progressed, estates such as Château Cheval Blanc (2011) and Château Mouton Rothschild (2013) unveiled cutting-edge new facilities, marking a shift from large, uniform vats to smaller, plot-specific ones that allowed for greater terroir expression. Today, winery upgrades are ubiquitous, with estates from Château Margaux to Haut-Bailly , and from Troplong Mondot to Figeac , all completing ambitious renovations. Historically, Bordeaux’s chais (‘wine cellars’) had been utilitarian, designed to house vats and barrels with little regard for aesthetics. Modern cellars, by contrast, are precision-engineered ecosystems tailored to enhance wine quality, streamline production and reflect the winemaker’s vision. Advanced technologies, sustainable designs and visitor-friendly spaces, all driven by several key factors [caption id="attachment_560331" align="alignnone" width="600"] Château Cantenac Brown. Credit: Luc Boegly[/caption] • Technological advancements: Innovations such as temperature-controlled fermentation tanks, optical sorting tables (for use during harvest) and AI-driven tools have revolutionised winemaking. At Château Edmus in St-Emilion, real-time barrel monitoring tracks oxygen exchange, sending alerts to phones. Virtual reality technology also allows estates to visualise cellars before construction, ensuring optimal layouts. • Market competition In a fiercely competitive global market, Bordeaux estates invest in modern facilities to differentiate their wines and uphold a reputation for quality. Despite the region’s existing technological leadership, declining interest in Bordeaux wines adds pressure to innovate further. • Sustainability Environmental concerns drive eco-friendly designs. Cellars incorporate solar panels ( Château Montrose ), raw earth walls (Château Cantenac Brown) and gravity-flow systems ( Château Cos d’Estournel , among many others) to reduce energy consumption. Low carbon footprints ( Château Smith Haut Lafitte ), rainwater collection and natural materials minimise environmental impact, aligning with certifications such as France’s High Environmental Value (HVE) scheme. • Wine tourism The rise of wine tourism has transformed cellars into experiential hubs with immersive experiences. Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s ship-like cellar, designed by Philippe Starck, doubles as an art gallery, with concrete vats adorned by talented artists. Château Troplong Mondot pairs its soaring barrel cellar with fine dining at the Michelin one-star restaurant Les Belles Perdrix. And Marquis d’Alesme, with its Zen-inspired gardens, blends cultural influences to attract global visitors. Impacts on winemaking [caption id="attachment_560328" align="alignnone" width="600"] Château Beauséjour[/caption] Modern cellar technologies elevate wine quality by enabling precise control over every stage of production. Gravity-fed systems, used by estates such as Château Branaire Ducru, gently move grapes, juice and wine without the use of pumps, preserving delicate aromas, reducing both oxidation in the wine and energy consumption. Automated temperature and humidity controls create stable fermentation and ageing environments, minimising wine faults and ensuring consistency across vintages. Inert gases, such as the nitrogen used at Château Laffitte Carcasset, protect wines during transfer between vessels, maintaining vibrant fruit profiles. Small, varied tank sizes – stainless steel, concrete or wood (or a combination) – allow for customised vinification of individual vineyard parcels, highlighting unique terroir characteristics. Come harvest time, sorting machines and advanced filtration systems ensure that only the highest-quality grapes are used, eliminating impurities that could compromise taste. Energy-efficient algorithms optimise fermentation balancing speed and flavour development to produce wines that possess greater complexity, refined tannins and enhanced ageing potential – as do the myriad methods of extraction. These include the relatively new ‘air pulse’ systems that use gentle bursts of compressed air to mix the grape must during fermentation, promoting the even extraction of colour, flavour and tannins without aggressive pumping or punching down of the cap (of grape solids) in the tanks. Consultant Romain Bocchio of Derenoncourt Consultants underscores the importance of accuracy: ‘Great wines are made by detail accumulation – mastery and precision. Winemaking is all about having a vision and a cellar is a tool to achieve that vision.’ A place for tradition However, tradition remains vital. At Château Guadet in St-Emilion, seventh-generation winemaker Vincent Lignac still uses a 101-year-old hydraulic press in his compact cellar tucked away in the heart of the village, proving that old methods can coexist with modern goals. Similarly, Saskia de Rothschild, overseeing an eight-year renovation at Château Lafite Rothschild due to finish in 2028, working with architect Bernard Quirot, emphasises simplicity: ‘We’ve left no stone unturned in analysing the process of winemaking, its quality, people’s wellbeing and the energy we need. Originally from Burgundy , Bernard’s approach of rural architecture and his cult of simplicity really resonated with what we wanted to do – a project that blends in at Lafite, is timeless and can really last forever.’ She quoted the famous line from The Leopard , a novel by Italian writer Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, which translates as ‘everything must change, so that nothing changes’. In a region grappling with a traditionalist image problem, declining wine consumption and economic pressures, cellar investments require bold confidence. Yet the rewards are evident: resilience against climate challenges, stronger brand appeal and higher-quality wines. Recent renovations: How Bordeaux is investing in its future [caption id="attachment_560327" align="alignnone" width="600"] Château Plain Point[/caption] • Château Larose-Trintaudon & Domaine Perganson, Haut-Médoc: Opened in April 2025, a 10,000m² complex with two cellars, vat rooms and a reception area, designed for efficient winemaking and enhanced tourism. • C hâteau Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien: Opened in 2024, a cellar with 65 suspended, gravity-fed stainless steel vats doubled capacity. Designed by Atelier des Architectes Mazières for precision vinification, along with visitor amenities including a tasting room and boutique. • Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux: Opened in 2024, a 6,000m² cellar made – by Atelier Philippe Madec – from rammed earth and locally sourced, untreated wood. Insulated stainless steel vats conserve water and energy. Also houses 2,500 barrels. • Château Beauséjour, St-Emilion: Having dropped the Duffau-Lagarrosse element of its former full name after changing ownership in 2021, this producer finished its new cellar in time for the 2024 vintage. With 14 cement vats (30hl-60hl) and two 15hl stainless steel tanks for microvinification of its 7ha vineyard, it also features a vineyard fresco and 360° views. • Château Bélair-Monange, St-Emilion: These stunning cellars were designed across three levels by architects Herzog & de Meuron and completed in 2023, including 24 new concrete fermentation vats and 20 in stainless steel, allowing for the best individual expression of each plot on the estate. Materials – largely light concrete with oak interiors – and layout were chosen to blend seamlessly with the UNESCO-protected landscape of St-Emilion, while also including a dedicated reception and tasting area. • Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Pauillac: Completed in 2023 and opened the following year, the Renaissance project doubled the number of vats in the property’s cellars to 46 double-skinned stainless steel (30hl-129hl) and seven concrete for blending and ageing, enhancing parcel selection in a gravity-fed system. A waterfront tourist trail has also been created, as well as a range of different historical, technical and immersive tours – the first time the estate’s doors have opened to the public. • Château Plain Point, Fronsac: Bordeaux’s largest new cellar at 9,000m² (up from 2,000m²), completed for 2023, features an impressive 87 vats (62 concrete, 13 wood, 12 stainless steel) in a gravity-fed design that extends three floors underground. ‘Built around gravity, precision and respect for our terroir, the new winery combines cutting-edge technology with traditional materials and a wide range of tank types and sizes so we can fully reveal the personality of each variety and terroir pairing,’ says marketing director Sandra Gallitre. • Château Laffitte Carcasset, St-Estèphe: Acquired by Pierre Rousseau in 2016, the estate has undergone significant modernisation, with the inauguration in 2020 of a new cellar by prolific architect Olivier Chadebost. It features a world-first in Bordeaux – 28 conical and inverse conical stainless steel and concrete vats for precise parcel vinification, tailored to the estate’s 35ha St-Estèphe vineyard, with energy-efficient fermentation control and a nitrogen generator for oxygen-free racking and low sulphur use to preserve fruit purity. Plus an ageing cellar that can house 450 oak barrels. • Château Angélus, St-Emilion: Near completion, a new winery in addition to the one that was opened in time for the 2019 harvest, where second wines Carillon d’Angélus and No3 d’Angélus are produced. A gravity-flow winery with 22 suspended stainless steel, concrete and wooden vats for flexible vinification, as well as technical rooms (cold, auxiliary and experimental) and visitor spaces (reception, tasting and a VIP lounge) for an immersive experience. ‘The objectives of this new facility build on the progress made in the vineyard over recent years, adding a highly precise and energy-efficient tool to the winemaking process,’ says owner Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoa. [/subscriber-content] Related articles Expert’s Choice: Montagne St-Emilion Wine investment: Taking the pulse of Bordeaux 2024 en primeur Bordeaux newsletter: Sign up today

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Bordeaux: Building the future

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