Burgundy 2011 revisited: 31 reds and whites tasted

Delving into older vintages is always eye-opening, as wines can sometimes become quite different beings than one had expected when tasted initially as youthful barrel samples.

So, when generous collectors are keen to open their own bottles to investigate a specific vintage to see how it’s ageing, one accepts such an invitation without hesitation.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 31 Burgundy 2011 wines

A notable 33 wines were unveiled at a tasting outside of Beaune – seven whites and 26 reds (of which two were regrettably corked). The inspiration for the tasting was not just to celebrate the 10-year in-bottle milestone, but also because 2011 is a controversial vintage.

Burgundy 2011: growing conditions

The 2011 vintage was one of the earliest harvests of the 21st century, alongside 2003 and 2007, with producers kicking off in late August.

A hot April propelled the growing season into high gear one week earlier than an average year. Both April and May were plagued by drought, creating hydric stress issues that would continue for much of the growing season.

Though the weather did not remain fierce, it was still a series of ups and downs with cool weather in July and inconsistent precipitation which seemed to fall at the wrong times; by harvest, the season was three weeks ahead of schedule.

The ladybirds

While the harvest transpired under mostly warm, sunny conditions and the fruit was predominantly clean – albeit with some inconsistent ripening – there was a record amount of ladybirds, reminiscent of 2004.

But, unlike 2004, producers were more prepared and many had installed vibrating sorting tables or even optical sorters, which released many of the insects into the bins below.

While European ladybirds are generally considered beneficial to vineyards, as they can help balance the ecology of the environment and are a sign of more natural viticulture, they, alongside invasive Asian ladybeetles which are increasingly present in the region, can release aromatic compounds when stressed or crushed. In higher doses, these methoxypyrazines can impart flavours that resemble green, unripe fruit characteristics.

The 2004 vintage was the first to draw attention to the potential issue, with many red wines showing well in barrel before turning much more herbaceous once bottled, earning them the title ‘The Green Meanies’.

Since pyrazines from flora or fauna are apparently indistinguishable in laboratory analyses, it’s difficult to confirm how responsible ladybirds are in giving any herbaceous flavours to wines, or if any could just be from the grapes themselves.

Some 2011s showed traces of pyrazines in their youth amongst the reds, but it’s still unclear as to whether it was from the heterogenous ripening or perhaps the ladybirds.

Recent, alleged reportings by collectors that some 2011s were showing herbaceous flavours encouraged the theme of this tasting. Fortunately, out of the 24 reds tasted, only one showed subtle leafy notes which does not confirm much of anything, as it could easily be part of its winemaking or natural evolution.

The styles

The 2011s in both red and white have been generally characterised as more fruit forward, in some ways like the easy-going nature of the 2000s, but with more density.

But the reds also have tannins that are a bit firmer and many don’t have the same effortless balance of the 2000s. Côte de Nuits reds have the upper hand over those from the Côte de Beaune due to better ripening and less rain.

In white, it’s easy to constate the ripeness, but without the heat and weight of a notably riper vintage like 2009.

However, it’s also a vintage that has been susceptible to the premature oxidation issues that have afflicted the white wines of the region (as well as elsewhere).

Following the tasting, I was pleased to see how well many of the reds showed, though it’s fair to say that most were grands crus and produced by some of the most talented domaines in the region, so the perspective was arguably limited.

Some displayed the fruit forwardness of the vintage with hints of evolution, but many showed the backbone and density this vintage can have.

Some tannins still need to soften and be resolved, but overall, many of the reds were quite pleasant while others were complete standouts, scoring much higher than the overall vintage rating implies.

In whites, some wines did reveal more evolution than I’d have wanted at this stage. It’s worth stating that none of the whites were oxidised, which gives some hope in terms of how well this vintage can hold on. Other whites were still fairly youthful, needing more time before they’ll peak.

It’s still a vintage for those who prefer less austerity, but where freshness and acidity are nevertheless an integral part of the fruit core.

The verdict

The wines of 2011 – for me a three-star vintage in both red and white – remain some of the most approachable in price when compared to collectable Burgundies on the market as a whole, and some are well-worth seeking out if chosen prudently.

See tasting notes and scores for 31 Burgundy 2011 wines

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Remembering Clive Coates MW, an authority on Burgundy and Bordeaux