Decanter New York Fine Wine Encounter masterclass: Brunello di Montalcino 2013

Contrary to the current trend in Italy, Montalcino shows no signs of officially designating subzones or specific crus. Yet variations in exposure, altitude and soil make for myriad expressions, even before taking winemaking into account.

At Decanter’s first-ever Fine Wine Encounter in New York City, Brunello di Montalcino owned the final masterclass slot of the day. Ten wines from 2013 were carefully selected to discuss the diversity that exists within this revered region.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 benchmark Brunello di Montalcino wines from 2013

Story of 2013

The control was the 2013 vintage. This year is particularly suited to demonstrate the diversity of the zone as well as the versatility of Sangiovese. While not without challenges, it was neither excessively hot nor was it a washout.

Described as a cool year, 2013 also saw rain during most of the growing season. Temperatures didn’t warm up until August, delaying veraison and heralding a late harvest.

Showers at the start of September further postponed picking for many. Thankfully, conditions improved as the month progressed, with warm days and cool nights eking out ripeness. Picking started on September 23rd in the warmest corners and continued through mid-October – a throwback to vintages of the last century.

The 2013 vintage release in 2018 was my inaugural Brunello report for Decanter. I was captivated by the many graceful, perfumed and refined examples. For some, phenolic ripeness was a struggle and less successful wines were lean and hard. Nevertheless, these were outweighed by many demonstrating well-sculpted structures.

A stellar lineup

This marks my first time revisiting multiple 2013s together. Opened – but not decanted – a few hours before the tasting, they were more expressive than they showed four and a half years ago. With less rigidity and more fluidity, they had settled into their personalities.

Leading the seminar with the iconic founding estate of Biondi-Santi was an obvious choice. This was the only wine in the lineup blended from multiple areas within Montalcino.

Besides a later harvest than usual, 2013 was also the first vintage since 1970 without Franco Biondi-Santi at the helm. Despite this, its hallmark ethereal, slightly austere style prevailed.

All points of the Brunello compass

From there, the wines were organised in a counterclockwise direction around the region – beginning and ending in Torrenieri in the northeast.

SassodiSole provided a fitting segue to Biondi-Santi as owner Roberto Terzuoli spent several years working with Franco. With compact clay and a predisposition to fog and frost, Torrenieri is a challenging pocket for grape growing. Nevertheless, SassodiSole’s higher, stonier vineyards demonstrate its potential for characterful Brunello.

Continuing westward in Montalcino’s cool northern swath, Canalicchio di Sopra’s core Brunello represented two relatively close yet distinct areas. Combining fruit from northeast facing plots in the mineral-laden clay of Canalicchio with grapes grown in Galestro soils of Montosoli’s hallowed hill, it allies the balsamic notes of the former with the minerality of the latter.

With similar expositions but higher in elevation, Il Marroneto is located on the outskirts of Montalcino town. The combination of altitude, exposure and the site’s calcareous soil rich in marine sand highlights the fragrant, elegant side of Sangiovese.

One of only two estates based in the far northwest, Castiglion del Bosco provided a transition with its southwestern exposure yielding a candid, weightier expression.

Continuing south down Montalcino’s western flank, the strong afternoon sun and palpable Mediterranean climate gives overall riper wines.

Rising above Camigliano, the luminous vineyards of Frescobaldi’s extensive Castelgiocondo estate also boast a strong influence from the Tyrrhenian Sea, only 40km away. The densest wine of the lineup, it was lifted by an appetising salinity.

Further south still, Col d’Orcia’s Poggio al Vento sits just below the town of Sant’Angelo in Colle on sandy, limestone soil, rich in minerals. ‘It was originally planted in 1974 by my grandfather,’ said Santiago Marone Cinzano who had come all the way from Italy to attend. The only Riserva in the lineup, it suggests the longevity this category should offer.

Onward to the southeastern sector where vineyards are predominantly oriented towards the Monte Amiata and bask in the gentle morning sun. Although hot during the day, nighttime temperatures drop substantially, preserving acidity and aromas. On the wild and forested Strada di Sesta, Giodo’s limestone soil contributes to the wine’s freshness.

Further east and at higher altitudes, Val di Suga’s Poggio al Granchio sits on steep schistose Galestro slopes above the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. It gave one of 2013’s more substantial, muscular wines.

Coming almost full circle, the seminar culminated with Casanova di Neri’s Cerretalto. At the far eastern boundary of Montalcino, the cool, slow ripening site is characterised by degraded rock of volcanic origin with a considerable presence of iron. Released a year later than its cohorts, it was the grippiest and most tightly wound.

Final verdict

Differences aside, the tasting confirmed that the 2013s are ageing gracefully yet still relatively youthful. Overall finesse of structure lends an accessibility, but they have plenty to give in the future.

If I am to compare them to surrounding vintages, they are less powerful than 2010, more elegant and precise than 2012, more substantial than the delicate 2014s, though slimmer than the sun-soaked, luscious 2015s.

As warmer, drier conditions continue to trend, we may soon be pining for vintages like 2013, especially as it so eloquently conveys the intricate nuances of the territory.

See tasting notes and scores for 10 Brunello di Montalcino wines from 2013

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