Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux: Tasting the 2018s

Charles Lachaux is now very much in control of this Vosne-Romanée property, formerly known as Domaine Robert Arnoux.

His father Pascal Lachaux cemented the reputation of the wines, though they were made in a very different style to that crafted by Charles.

Pascal’s wines were excellent but also very oaky and quite extracted. They had a wide following, as they were undoubtedly wines of character and concentration. Today top Burgundies are being made with a lighter touch, and that is equally true here.

Scroll down for Stephen Brook’s Lachaux 2018 tasting notes and scores

Although based in Vosne-Romanée, the domaine has significant holdings in Nuits St Georges, and also produces four grands crus.

Charles, involved in running the estate since 2011, increased his participation greatly in 2015 when he began to implement his own ideas. He was keen to follow organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard, and although he expects to proceed to organic certification, this move won’t be publicised on the label.

For Charles, it is merely one of the means required to create the style of wine he favours. He has been deeply influenced by the veteran biodynamic producer Lalou Bize-Leroy, an exacting but rewarding mentor, one would imagine.

The major changes at the estate have not been so much in the cellar – although the proportion of new oak has been reduced to a maximum of 30 percent – as in the vineyard.

In certain parcels, such as Vosne Reignots, the density has daringly been doubled. Charles opposes green-harvesting to reduce yields, so instead he prunes very short. He has also altered the canopy management. Shoots have been lengthened, since it’s believed that there is a corresponding lengthening of the root system. The canopy management also encourages early ripening, the advantage being that grapes can be picked at full maturity but at lower sugar levels.

In terms of how comparisons can made between the wines, Charles said: ‘What has to make the difference is the soil, where the grapes come from. That’s what Burgundy is about and for that you have to go deep into the details. The aim of the work we do all year long is to try to enhance the difference and personality of each of the vines.’

When speaking about the standouts in 2018, he said: ‘The Aux Reignots is our most accomplished yet – it’s the one that is the result of vineyard changes put in place five years ago.’

But, their entry-level wine shouldn’t be overlooked either: ‘Our Pinot Fin is our ‘window shop’. It’s the wine from our Domaine most people will probably try first. It has to be the best we can make it because it has exactly the same work in the vineyards and in the cellar.’

In 2018 the alcohol levels ranged from 12.5 to 13.2.

Another innovation will be the return to a modified bush-vine cultivation rather than conventional trellising; this should reduce the risk of infection of the wood disease esca.

In the cellar there has been, as well as a reduction in the use of new oak, a greater use of whole-cluster fermentation, but it’s a pragmatic decision based on the quality and nature of the fruit rather than the application of a formula.

Charles’s insistence on radically modifying the 14.5-hectare domaine’s viticultural practices requires a larger team of vignerons – 28 full-time staff – which unfortunately has resulted in higher costs, and these wines have never been cheap.

On the other hand, quality is consistently impressive. The wines have great intensity but also an ethereal quality and an impressive lightness of touch.

‘I need more and more people all year long. Work has to precise and done by hand’ said Charles.

‘With our practices, if we keep the same prices we won’t be able to keep going. We’ve got more costs now – we’ve changed the tools, the canopy system and this year we’ve increased the quality of the corks. Each cork is around 2 Euros, even for the Bourgogne. We have great work in the vineyard and cellar but it’s the last thing that will be in contact with the wine so we have to maximise the quality at all stages.’

2018 was a fine vintage for red Burgundy but some wines lack acidity and have a troubling softness. Not so here, where the wines come across as highly strung in the most positive sense. There is richness but no heaviness, and fine acidity keeps them fresh and appetizing. Accessible young, they will undoubtedly reveal more nuances and complexity with ageing.

Innovations in 2018 include new labels designed by Charles’s wife Louise, as the previous ones were ‘too modern’, and the addition of ‘lieu-dit’ names to three of the wines.

This is a domaine that is constantly evolving, and for the better.

See Stephen Brook’s Lachaux 2018 tasting notes and scores

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